What kind of power connection do you need? Mine had a USB option so I ended up just tucking the cable into the headliner, driver's side pillar, then hardwired an old cigarette lighter to USB adapter to the RPO in the drivers side fuse box. It's hidden and I'm no pgamboa so it's good enough for me. Got my pictures and ideas from this thread:
You should assume the Eaton G80 locker will grenade every time you do a burnout and that the stock driveshaft is a weak link. Maybe these parts don't fail the first time. Maybe you get lucky and you get countless hours of burnout and high speed enjoyment. I'm not going to put my faith in luck when I could invest in the parts I know will properly protect the ridiculously inflated investment I have to make in a new vehicle. Are roller rocker arms better than pivots? Yeah, but why? Oh they handle more power. Do you need it in a stock application? Likely not, but if you start doing things beyond stock applications you sure do and I don't see threads bitching about having to upgrade them. A quick pass through Texas Speed has them trying to sell me some pushrods, valve springs, and a timing chain with a cam package. Maybe I could toss all that in a stock block with stock components and pray it doesn't rain, but maybe it's a good idea to put the money in the parts to make it safe, fun, and not dump money in a $40,000 computer controlled rod chucker. Hell, you'd think with everyone bitching about the Chevy Shake that'd be a pretty damn good indication that if you wanna go real fast you should probably think about going through the damn drive train with a fine tooth comb looking for something that's gonna be a real big surprise at high speed. Keep in mind if you defeat the limiter and things break, it ain't GM's fault anymore. They avoid the legal ramifications and the bad PR by pointing at you doing something outside the intended design and application for your vehicle and you get to pick up pieces. Personally, I can't in good faith say the parts should be good enough when failures in trucks have displayed there is still the chance that I got lucky and got a shitty driveshaft. If you can, good for you. I will point and laugh if yours blows to hell and use you for my empirical evidence the next time someone asks me about something like this.
If you're already going up there, bring a tape measure. I will say that I pulled the blocks out of the back of mine and put McGaughys 2" drop shackles on my 2WD crew cab short box and it leveled it to within a 1/8 to 1/4" There have been some differences with just swapping out the shackles between the 2WD and 4WD (as well as crew cab vs regular and double cab) but I chalked it up to suspension setup due to the extra weight from the 4WD drive train up front. The shackles alone on a 4WD would level it. But seriously, take a tape measure up there.
Picked up a set of (9) of #23115245 for $15 off of eBay. I don't have a need at this time for hooks, but I have some great wishlist ideas for the family for birthday and Christmas. Thanks guys!
I do like the functionality of those Bull Ring tie downs but I'm cheap I saw the Dee Zee models and those were what I was considering if I couldn't source the plastic covers at a reasonable price. I may go with a combo of both.
When the dealership did my bed liner, the folks they subcontracted out to were nice enough to remove the bed plugs (GM part # 15891612) before they sprayed it on rather than spray over them. The downside is that a couple of these have popped off now and vanished and I have some unsightly holes that I want to fill. I found the OEM part but $10-12 each seems rather steep and was curious if there was another option out there that I had not seen yet. I've spotted some tie down mounts that I can install that work out to be cheaper by about $2-3 each over the OEM covers, but thought I'd ask before I went that route or went cruising the wrecking yards for them.
You can probably learn all you need to know from AMMO NYC and Chemical Guys on Youtube. You don't need everything Chemical Guys pitch, but some of it is nice and can make things easier. I'd recommend searching for "AMMO TRAINING ACADEMY" if you want to kill a couple hours with a guy who is OCD about cleaning cars Here's what I did: Rinsed the truck to get rid of the large contaminants - I was shaded pretty good and was going to wash it anyway so I wasn't too worried about it drying. Washed and rinsed the wheels, bumpers, and exhaust tip (dedicated bucket) Another rinse I washed it using the two bucket method (the other two buckets) Final rinse Dried it off with microfiber towels and took it home (it was still kind of dirty because light pressure during the wash doesn't get it all) Clay barred it in the shade using a quick detaling wax for lubrication Applied sealant with my DA polisher and a light/medium hex CG buffer pad and buffed it off by hand Applied liquid with my DA polisher and an ultra fine (black) hex CG pad and buffed it off by hand Things I used: Three buckets (two homer buckets, one small random for the wheels) California Gold Clay Bar System (comes with a quick detailing spray) California Gold Car Wash Chemical Guys White Light Hybrid Radiant Finish Mothers Ultimate Liquid Wax Harbor Freight 6" Dual Action Polisher Chemical Guys 5" DA backing plate to replace the horrid HF one (BUFLC_BP_DA_5) CG 5" black hex pad (finishing) CG 5" white hex pad (light buff) and so many plush microfiber towels. so many. The dusting was done with copious amounts of cursing and a microfiber duster I picked up from Target.
Washed, clay barred, sealant and waxed. Looked great until the lawn crew blew all the dead grass clippings and dirt all over it. Looked like an idiot dusting a truck but I damn well did it.
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