Justin35594

No, I do not intend on weight reduction. As I mentioned above, I plan to convert it to coil overs to ensure the height issue is corrected which is affecting my alignment on the drivers side. The camber is too excessive because the torsion bar and key position is different from the passenger side no matter which way the bar is oriented. This causes the lower control arm on the drivers side to be much lower which means ride height will be greater on the drivers side. Like you said though, it's probably something with the bushing. this issue could be occurring with loading and unloading. The bushing may be binding but I haven't verified yet.

Yea there definitely was some sketchy crap on it when I bought it last July. I'm likely just going to do a coil over conversion and removed the bar set-up. This truck is a good working 4x4 but is also tuned and cam swapped so I figure that would be an upgrade for suspension and certainly some sort of weight reduction because them bars weigh a ****** ton. I tune using that HP tuner program with the MVPI2 and ****** awesome. This issue has just been messing my alignment up making handling crap since I first looked into the problem.

Thank you. I appreciate the advice.

I've been experiencing a issue involving height related to torsion bars on my 1999 GMC Sierra. I am having trouble determining if it is the driver side torsion bar, or perhaps the driver side lower control arm being worn where the torsion bars sits in it. This issue is non-existent on the passenger side. On the driver side, I removed the torsion bar for some other work I was doing and when I re-installed it in the lower control arm, I noticed the keys were positioned differently literally every way I turned the bar or tilted the lower control arm on the driver side. The keys are the same but on the driver side the torsion key seems to sit lower than the passenger side when installing it making the driver side higher which in turn makes the lower control arm sit lower. This is causing far too much camber on the driver side making turn radius on that side a little sketchy. It is also making my lower control arm make contact with the steering knuckle. The ball joints are all new. Could this be a worn lower control arm, or possibly the torsion bar on the driver side alone? Is there a fix to correct the issue? If anyone has experienced this or can make better sense of it please let me know!

I replaced all ball joints on my 1999 GMC Sierra Z71 days ago. I ensured they were greased, and they all went in fairly easy. However, I have noticed the steering is noticeably tighter going down the road after this was done to the truck. I would describe the steering as stiff and much less responsive due to this tight feel, and because it is so tight it will not naturally rotate back to center after a turn. It tries to but the steering is just too tight. I figured I probably tightened the upper control arm before I tightened the lower but I went back and reassessed that. It did help a bit but it still about the same. If my memory serves me right, I can remember before I assembled everything back before I tightened the upper control arm and the tie rod, it moved freely and easily with just the bottom ball joint tightened down but when everything else was on it, it was near impossible to make the wheels turn in and out by hand, even with the wheel unlocked and on jack stands. I been continuously researching about this, and I've seen it to be a common issue but I can't figure out exactly why without everyone contradicting one another on other various forums. I did get both the bottom and upper control arms really tight with a wrench. that might be where I messed up because I know a castle nut isn't exactly meant to be extremely tight but then again, I don't know if that would have any effect on this issue. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the sequence or how I put the upper control arm back down in. Anyone experience this?