I feel a whole lot better about my tranny now than I did before. I obviously don’t exactly know what’s going on inside there, but from feel alone it sure seems a lot more safe/smooth now. Time will tell.
Just because I know I was looking for as much info as I could before I bought it, thought I would quickly share my thoughts on the Diablo I2 I installed on my truck earlier this week. Overall, really happy I got it. - CAI, resonator delete -Running the canned 93 Octane Tune, AFM off, Firm shift. Performance : It’s alive! Let’s be honest, it’s not a supercharger. So don’t expect a supercharger. But the truck is more alive than ever. This is what a V8 should feel like. I keep getting yelled at by my wife because I accidentally keep slamming her back in to her seat leaving a stop. I mean it really thows you back now. I still haven’t really pushed it either because I want to ease in to the tune. The throttle response is so much better than stock. It jumps off the line, no “bog” or delay feeling anymore. Getting up to highway speed is a breeze now, and I continue to catch myself doing 90-95 completely on accident. It just wants to go there now. Shifting is sharp now, but not hard or harsh. Stock, I felt like my tranny was gonna drop out of the truck numerous times a day. Awkward shift points and random un expected downshifts were the norm. That is pretty much gone. AFM has got to go! So much hesitation is created by the truck trying to figure when it wants to be in 4 cylinder mode or a V8. I never realized how bad it was until it was gone. A lot of the hesitation that I was feeling in the truck (I think) was coming from that I believe, and I was blaiming the tranny. With that being said, I think the tranny was trying to figure out 4 cylinder mode, and 4 cylinder mode was trying to figure out the tranny. Just a mess. Gas Mileage: Even with some excess throttle on my end, and with AFM off, I still think I have gained about 1.8 MPG all around. Further driving will be needed to determine this. Interface: Very easy to use. Ya, it takes a couple extra tap sometimes on the screen, and sometimes it has a little hesitation, but what do you expect? I didn’t buy this expecting it to be like an iPhone. I bought it for the tune. Couple notes. AFM is not automatically turned off with any of the tunes. You have to modify the tune. Haven’t tried the MPG Booster, probably won’t. I think having an intake is very important, and I could only imagine that a true exhaust would help a lot as well. Just my 2 cents.
They are actually just an off brand from wheelsnparts... I gave them a shot because they were a good amount cheaper and looked very similar to the more expensive brands. I’ll tell you what, I’m very impressed with the fitment. Everything went together pretty much perfectly. Sorry, for the life of me I can’t figure out how to rotate pics on here.
Hey guys, Im sure this is already on here, but my searches are turning up nothing. Installing new front knuckles, need factory torque specs for: upper and lower ball joints tie rod sway bar 3 bolts holding knuckle to bearing thanks in advance for the help.
Gosh, that was my first attempt and I remember not being happy with it, but I can’t really remember why. Might have to re visit that. I swear I remember one of the wires not being quite long enough when I did that.
Hey guys, Just got a new ballast from morimoto and it has finally pursuaded me to adjust the mess I have under the hood from when I installed them. I tried numerous different routing techniques and in the end wasn’t happy with a single one for one reason or another. I ended up just plugging them in and telling myself I’d fix it later. Is it just me or does the morimoto kit seem just a little bit too short here and there as far as wires are concerned?? My intake also kind of gets in the way.
There is a lot of talk about the Bilstein 5100s on here because they are a great option for our trucks. I have them on my truck and while trying to figure out my next step in my suspension I drew a diagram showing what I think to be the articulation levels of the shocks. Anyways, thought Id share it here in case anyone was curious or wanted a better understanding of how they work. Please let me know if I am wrong!! * The highlighted “boxes” represent the total allowance of your suspensions articulation with stock components (range of A-arms, etc.). In a perfect world, another way to look at it would be the range from your upper bump stop to your lower droop stop. * I realized afterwards there are 4 possible settings not 3 * I also realized that the proper location to show the range of articulation (Highlighted part) on each shock would be at the body of the shock and not halfway up the piston of the shock. Not sure what I was thinking but the idea remains the same. * Lots of talk about spring compression related to Bilstein 5100s. As you can see, each setting provides the same spring compression. * From what I can see the most neutral position would be either the .75" or the 1.25" setting, as both of those settings are no where near the upper extreme or the lower extreme of the shocks total articulation.
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