In other news, Bilstein is Finally Going to release their 6112 model for the 2014-2018 Silverado https://cart.bilsteinus.com/details?id=1764298763850174162 I may Finally buy myself a set so i can stop blowing up 5100s. Hurray
In my own personal experience, and having tried both brands, I can say for myself that Rancho Shocks cannot be even remotely compared to Bilsteins Bilstein 5100s are so much better performing and better built, not to mention that they will save you a lot of money, compared to crappy riding Ranchos
Hello everyone Anyone else having trouble with squeaky leaf springs? I actually even considered drilling a Grease Fitting into the eyes of mine. I got tired of trying to fix it with WD40, and even tried to use high mileage motor oil to lubricate my leaf spring bushings with no luck, until a friend of mine recommended a great product called HHS 2000 by Wurth It is basically a spray can, with WD40-like oil, but with a catch: after a couple of minutes it cures and thickens itself into grease. After making some research, I found many other options like it, and thought I could share it with the group. The great thing about it is that it creeps and penetrates into the bushings from the outside, and then once inside it cures and maintains the rubber lubricated as if you had put actual grease into it. TL;DR I made a little How-To-Fix video about it, as I had nothing better to do on a Sunday afternoon lol Support on my YouTube channel is always appreciated, thanks to all who watch it:
Even tho last time i tightened it down to 130 ft-lbs, it all still moved. The problem seems to be that the mechanism design is just prone to drifting out of position, even the pins in the chassis, which are pressed it, get loose and fall out because of the load It seems that the Dirt King kit fixed it very well, but i will give it a few weeks and make a review on it, i will report my findings The drill and pin sounds like a great idea too, i hope i dont get to that point lol
Hello, Everyone! After Months of having to cope with noises and problems regarding tge front end alignment on my truck, i finally came across the solution The stock suspension alignment is set by this cams, which are prone to moving under load and/or getting loose: No matter how many times i aligned the truck, it all moved again while making a turn in the parking lot or getting down from the drveway ( close to steering lock) I finally decided that it was enough and after making some research i came across this kit from Dirt King Fabrication: https://dirtkingfabrication.com/products/upper-arm-alignment-cams-dk-632919 The process i took was as follows: -Re Align the Truck (-2* Camber, +5* Caster) -Mark where the position stock cams as they sit correcly -Install thenew Dirt King cams in the same positions -Add pressure washers (Not incluided in kit) -Add Loctite (Not incluided in kit) -Tighten everything down (like, a lot) For the TL;DR I made a video about it: Problems i came across: -One of the alignment pins that are pressed into the chassis fell, almost all others were loose Fix: I replaced it with a little screw and nut (shown in video) -The truck´s suspension still knocks a bit when moving at full lock, but it doesnt feel like moving Fix: Still working on it but if it doesnt move and looses the alignment, i dont care Maybe the only option is to pin point removable welds, screw it. Have anyone else experienced this kind of problem in their trucks? How did you manage to fix it? With any luck GM fixed this garbage alignment design for the new 2019s (i think they did) And as always support on my YT channel is very much appreciated
No, Not You I meant that Catch can manufacturers should take the hint about a condensator of some sort lol
Look, i came up with a design that would catch 100% of pcv vapors... it would be mounted in front the truck, in front of the radiators Take the Hint, catch can manufacturer
I would actually argue that the colder you can keep the can, the better, so it condensates vapors more effectively.
Water begins condensating in the can and crankcase when you use the truck for short trips and not warm up the oil enough.
VdellaV replied to Blanz's topic in 2019 Engine, Driveline, & ExhuastWhen putting my Longtubes, i chaged the pancake pipes place to behind the transmission (under the yoke) I saw a great reduction on transmission temps and now it takes a much longer time for the transmission fluid to warm up. The stock pipe literally cooks the transmission pan.
Here are my 2 cents: If youre going for budget, just delete everything but the resonator, like i did a couple of years ago. If not, Go all out for Longtubes, X pipes and the whole enchilada with the smallest magnaflows i could find, like i did a year ago. Here are 2 of my videos. the first being just the stock exhaust deleting all cats, muffler and flapper valve, and the second with a full race 3" dual exhaust i "designed":
Not worth it, Stock GM Manifolds are great and aftermarket ones have been proven to be even worse, specially for stockish engines. Not even worth it to upgrade to a 6.2 manifold/TB Having said that, i´ve heard about this brand of intake manifolds called Whipple. They even come with a belt driven thingy that makes meow meow and choo choo noises, but they are like 6k dollars
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