Hello Everyone, Its that time of the year where harvesting season has arrived (Im a Coffee Farmer in central Mexico) and around this time i like to do the Annual check and Service to my Vehicles. One of the things that i like to do is Lubricate the Leaf Springs on my trucks using Silicone-Based Grease to prevent squeaking and deterioration of the rubber inserts in the Springs. I think you can use pretty much any off the shelf grease, but some people are of the opinion that Petroleum-Based lubricants can damage the Rubber Bushings and Inserts, so i have been using Silicone-Based Dielectric Grease for quite some time now. Its great to lube the Poly Bushings on my Mid Travel UCAs, and you can use Canned Silicon Sprays to touch up every now and then. To put it where it needs to be (Between the Leaf Spring Contact Points) i found that the easier way is so jack up the truck from the rear and let the suspension Droop, which makes the leafs separate and allows to grease up the gap by hand. TL;DR, i made a short video, Support on my YouTube Channel always helps me afford new parts for my truck and so on. ** Years ago I removed my 3rd Overload Springs to improve comfort, thats why you wont see them in the video. Turns out it does improve Comfort, but the truck will squat horribly when loading more than a few Hundred Pounds on the bed, but thats a video for another day wink wink
Hello Everyone, Since i was upgrading my 2.0 Fox Coilovers to 2.5s, i decided to make a quick video on how to remove and replace the stock sway bar end links for a 20 dollar energy suspension kit i found at my local autozone. The part number i used is Energy Suspension 9.8165R. It is listed as a universal kit, but it is the exact same size and geometry as the stock links. Support on my Youtube videos helps me afford parts to keep upgrading my truck, so it is grealy appreciated! TL;DR, here is the video:
Answered on the other Topic you commented on, but i see the points here are different; Happy to be of help! 1.- No check engine Lights, the engine does not have any PCV related sensors. Just put the Crankcase evac AFTER the exhaust O2 sensors LOL 2.- TailPipe doesnt get dirtier than normal 3.- Just 1 point in the exhaust, getting fed by one of the valve covers. I want to make a Y or T to feed it with bolth valve covers but just for symmetry. 4.- No, since no exhaust backdrafts (I thoroughly checked) 5.- I dont think so, there is not enough water in the line to cause problems, and if there is, the moment you fire up the truck, heat would take care of any of that and blow it out the exhaust.
Happy to be of help! The reason Catch Cans dont work is that they're technically destilleries. Hot vapor comes in, condenses inside (when the catch can is cold). But when the vessel gets hot, vapors just pass through. I have been saying that for years and nobody seemed to listen, i blame the wonders of marketing. Thank you for taking your manifold off and telling it like it is! 1.- Tail pipe doesnt get any dirtier 2.- I just drilled and welded 1 port on the exhaust, and just run 1 valve cover line, the other side is capped. I put a vacuum meter on the other port and 1 exhaust line is plenty enough to pull all pcv vapors. (Stock engine, stock ring gaps). I would like to have the 2 sides to a Y, just for symmetry tho. 3.-No, no exhaust gases return. The kit comes with a check valve but i removed it because i checked that i didnt need it. 4.- I dont know if extreme cold could cause any issues like that, i dont think so because the lines dont carry that much water, but you would detect them right away. Any excess of Crankcase pressure will pop off the oil dipstick. 5.- YES it makes sense, thats how i used to run the system before, worked fine! We all fall for marketing schemes, i had a catch can, we all have had catch cans thinking they worked. As George Carlin used to say: "Teach children to Question what they read, teach them to question everything"
I experienced problems with the Shift Buttons for the Manual mode on my Silverado: It behaved like there was a false contact or even an electrical short on the inside of the shift lever The transmission worked fine in Drive, and even in Manual Mode, but the truck would shift down when i pushed the button to shift up and viceversa or not register the shift at all. This was specially problematic when trying to engine brake while towing loaded on a hill or so, you get the idea. After disassembling the Column covers and shifter boot i discovered orange rust coming out of the lever where the cable for the buttons exits, so i concluded it was most likely a false contact or short on the internal electrical parts of the shifter itself, caused by rust and corrosion inside of the shifter. Since i caught the problem relatively quickly i managed to fix it by pouring a lot of AutoZone Rust Eater penetrating oil a few times in a couple of days It worked! now the shifter buttons work like new. Im pretty sure that if the rust had corroded the electronics too much, I may have needed to replace the shift lever entirely, since there is no practical way of disassembling it. WD40 could have worked too, but AutoZone´s "Rust Eater" sounded better and is just what i had in hand and worked. There are many brands of Rust Removing Penetrating Oils, most of them should do the same, but i dont know of all of them are Dielectric and safe to use on electronics. MAF sensor cleaner or Electronic parts cleaner could also work as well. TL;DR i made a video about it, hopefully this will help someone not spend money on a new shift lever:
Hello Everyone! As the title suggests, i thought it was about time for me to make a cohesive argument on my experience of the last 5 years owning a GDI Silverado. I normally like to make short concise points that explain how/why things work, based on many hours of research and trial and errors, so this read wont be too long. GDIs like to accumulate carbon buildup from the continuous process of PCV recirculation and valve overlap into the intake manifold. With no Port Fuel Injection before the intake valves to spray it off, this can get very expensive really soon, specially on TurboCharged GDI cars, that have even more blow by, sending more PCV vapors into the intake. On most GM 4.3, 5.3 and 6.2 Gen V Engines, this is not too much of a problem, since we have N/A engines that dont produce as much Blow By, but miles and time eventually will catch up. My research on Carbon Build Up started with CRC GDI intake Valve Cleaner into the PCV vacuum port, but since i live in Mexico, i was able to buy just a few cans before they stopped selling them here, due to its cost ($15 USD) and low demand. This got me thinking and I discovered that PEAs are the CRC's active ingredient. PEA or PolyEtherAmine is a strong detergent that when applied directly under heat; dissolves carbon deposits. After some more research, i soon discovered that Most Fuel Injector Cleaner additives contain similar quantities of PEAs to the CRC GDI Formula, so in a nutshell, you can pour any Fuel Injector Cleaning Additves directly into the intake of your Hot Gasoline Engine, for the same effect. (DONT TRY THIS ON ANY DIESEL ENGINE, ASK ME HOW I KNOW LOL) My product of choice currently is Chevron Techron Concentrate (up to 50% PEA Content) but there are higher powered cleaners like Chevron Techron Marine that has up to 75%. You can search for eny product Safety Data Sheet, which informs on the chemical formula of it. TL;DR Pretty much any Fuel Injector Cleaner has some content of PEA or similar detergents that can be poured directly into the intake manifold of any Gasoline engine, with a little ingenuity, and here are some of my videos. My YouTube Channel helps me allocate funds for product research, buying and testing parts and paying for my Student Debt, so any support there is greatly appreciated! How to check what chemicals work: How To Use Injector Cleaners directly into the Throttle Body: And the latest video; How to Use Injector Cleaner into the vacuum line or vacuum ports: Older video on Carbon Build Up
OP; I have 1.25" G2 wheel spacers and had to trim my studs, to be sure you can remove a wheel/tire and measure how long are the studs, then get spacers wider than that. The conical nuts will center the wheel on its place, regardless if the spacer has a hub centric edge, so there shouldn't be a problem Here is a video i made a couple years ago when i didnt know much better?. Good times tho.
Hello, Everyone! For the last couple of weeks i have been rocking a set of AFP PolyUrethane Motor Mounts on my 2015 Silverado, and i have to say: WOW I know understand Solid or Poly Motor Mounts are one of those "Must Haves", even tho it is a very often overlooked mod, but is one of those things that will improve the vehicle feel a lot. For the last few years, i have invested quite some time and money into the suspension of myTruck, trying to improve how it drives both On and Off Road. So far, my 2015 Silverado has a Front Suspension Mid Travel Kit: -DirtKing Upper Control Arms -DirtKing Alignment Cams -Fox 2.0 Coilovers (Set to Stock Ride Height) -3" Lift Spindles. Even tho i have what most people would consider more than enough suspension, there was a very distinctive shake that i couldnt get rid of, when going fast on rough roads or jumping speed bumps, and thought it was just K2xx suspension geometry; but no: it was the Engine/Transmission all along. Regardless of having good/undamaged Stock Motor Mounts, i realized the Engine/Trans assembly wiggles too much when jumping a bump or in rough dirt roads, making the truck feel like something in the suspension is loose. I didnt know this was the problem until i installed a set of AFP Poly Motor Mounts, and when testing the truck, found out i wasnt feeling the strange shake anymore: Mind Blown. To any of you out there with Desert trucks, PreRunners or Overlanding vehicles, dont overlook the great benefits of having improved Motor Mounts on your rigs. I wished someone had told me, but im glad i found out! Other benefits i found are: Improved Sporty Feeling of the truck, Improved Throttle Response, Greater Mount Longevity, Easier to install than Stock motor Mounts, Etc. The only downside any normal people could fathom, is the extra vibration felt in the steering wheel and pedals (which i dont even consider to be more than mild, it rather subtle and feels sporty, like a Manual Trans Camaro) AFP Site: https://atomicfabandperformance.com/ My Motor Mounts: https://atomicfabandperformance.com/product/14-18-gmt2kxx-lt-poly-motor-mounts/ TL;DR, here is the video. My YouTube Channel helps me pay for my student debt and truck mods, so Support there is greatly appreciated! Also, below, is the Motor Mounts installation video i made; here is that Topic:
Who's Online 35 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,362 Guests (See full list)
- Clyde Jones
- Chris Babcock
- Jessica Kisner
- Mike Emerson
- Daryl Z71
- Richard Stelling