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Bill336

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  1. The road to hell is indeed paved with good intentions. 1997 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 LT. I've decided to upgrade all the lighting to LED. The map lights are giving me fits. You use a Torx bit in the center of the clear lens, push in and turn, and the map light pops out. It worked that way on the first one. The second one worked for removal, but when I tried to reinstall it, it seems to have gotten stuck and I've stripped it. Anyone got an idea how to get the blasted thing out? I've tried gentle prying, trying to get it to move. No go. Oh yeah, and the switch seems to have crapped out. *sigh* On the remaining 4 lights, the pattern in the plastic isn't Torx. It's an "X" shape. A flat blade screwdriver doesn't work. A Phillips isn't the right shape. Obviously a Torx won't work. Not sure why they're different, but they are. Anyone got any idea what tool to use to get them out? I'd like to strangle the engineer who came up with this lunacy. My 01 GMC Sierra only needs a flat blade screwdriver to change the map lights. That's a good design.
  2. Does anyone know of a source for parts to customize a center console? I want to mount my ham gear in the console, but the existing parts have all the wrong places, so I can't try re-cutting them. I'd rather not try to build a console myself.
  3. Don't let your truck get below 1/4 tank. The pump needs the gas around it to cool it.
  4. Do you suppose the shop reused your oil or used an inferior oil?
  5. Nope. Everything they've got is all black or all chrome, and most of it is Chineseum. I have found one on Amazon that is close to the look, but also Chineseum. I'm betting on it looking as cheap as the all-chrome one I've seen. Pity there's no real way to fix the peeling chrome.
  6. It's time to replace the grill on my 97 K2500 Suburban. The chrome is starting to peal and it's cracked. I'd like to keep the stock chrome surround/black inserts look. I'd also rather not spend a ton of money on this. Does anyone have any brand or supplier recommendations/avoid at all costs? I've already seen the cheap Chinese stuff (around $140 price point) and wasn't too impressed.
  7. 2001 GMC Sierra, extended cab and 5.3l. I had mine replaced with an OEM equivalent when they needed it a few month ago. Went from that "whee" shocks are shot ride to "rides like a pickup". It's a stiff ride, but I don't find it objectionable in a truck. Rides better than my 97 Burb K2500 with the 8600# gross package.
  8. I just had to deal with a similar problem on a 01 GMC. Check the high side pressure port for a leak. From what I'm able to find that is a common problem, because GM decided to use a ball valve rather than a Schrader valve. The ball valve is leak prone. Fixes include new port "guts" (ball valve style), change out to Schrader valve or the one I'm trying, a little screw from Dorman that just plugs the port.
  9. I ask because right now, I'm pretty ticked. I took my 97 K2500 Suburban to a local mechanic. A swaybar link needed replacing, and I saw a number of other things in the front end that needed work-more than I want to deal with. They take a look at it and the verdict is almost everything needs replaced. That didn't surprise me. The only things that didn't need it was a single set of bushings. Well, not a big surprise-the truck is 22 years old. Got the call this afternoon, it's ready. They told me that they went ahead and replaced that one pair of bushings since they were already in there and things were apart. This added $210 to the cost. If they had called me first, I'd have said go ahead and replace them. What's got me ticked is that I've only done business with this garage once before. (My old mechanic of 30+ years has retired and I had to find someone else.) I never give anyone leave to do more work than originally agreed to without a call first. If I had thought about it, I might have even asked them to go ahead and do this since they already had things torn apart. I'm going to go pick up the truck tomorrow and have a word with them that, when I have a vehicle in for work, I want a call before anything past what was agreed on is done. I could cause them trouble with the state attorney general's office, but unless I get attitude that isn't the way I want to go. They do decent work, at least so far. They're more expensive than my old mechanic, but I always got a break with him. I don't expect one with these guys. Plus I don't have an infinite amount of choices around here when it comes to mechanics. I can take it to the dealer, but ouch$$. Am I being thin-skinned on this?
  10. I'll second this recommendation. I've been running them on my 97 Suburban since 2001-ish. When my 01 Sierra needs tires, I'm going with these for it as well.
  11. When I was looking for my used truck, I ran into "something somewhere" that said the 5.3 engine was engineered for a 400,000 lifetime. Sorry I can't remember where I picked this up.
  12. Also check your battery. A dying battery can cause all sorts of electrical mischief. The computers don't get the voltage they expect at startup, before the alternator kicks in, and they can boot up in some weird states.
  13. Just go ahead and get the battery checked. Dying batteries cause all sorts of problems on modern vehicles. Of course, you could go with my solution, which was to buy and older truck without so many electronics.
  14. I've not heard anyone who was happy with a roll-on in a truck bed. I have heard from people who were happy with it in other situations. I decided to go with a Line-X liner. Costs more, but so far it hasn't had a problem. I I've carried metal junk to the dump, heavy furniture and some other things. Haven't babied it and it has just worked.
  15. I've seen that as well. It's either that or replace the multifunction switch, and the brake switch is a lot less expensive. But before that, I'm going to check more on the resistors on the lights. That may be the issue.
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