madsen203

What do you have in the rear? I really want the 6112's but it's hard to justify 3x the price.

Link? I see a set on Amazon for $366.20 Have you ever used www.camelcamelcamel.com ? Be ready to have your mind blown! Looks like the low is $343.51 but the price has gone up about 5%. Camel Camel Camel Bilstein Shocks 5100 Looks like MRT has it for 352 OTD.

Where did you buy them from?

Isn't there a theory that running the warmer thermostat of about 210 helps cook the valves and prevents coking and other issues that come with GDI (non-port injection)? So if it's running cooler, it's not getting hot enough to burn the carbon from the valves. I'd be interested in the same test with stock thermostat but modified fan schedule. I bet that makes a bigger difference and still maintains the designed as intended profile for temperature range.

So...where is the best price for a full set of 5100's? Ebay has a set for about $350 but I'd rather buy from a retailer/reseller if possible. Thanks in advance!

This thread resolved my issue. I hear it faintly once in a blue moon but way better than before. Dealer confirmed misaligned/deformed boot causing sound leakage.

Trying to determine what is the "normal" max A/C temperature for a given temperature range. In my car, the AC blows at 33.4* when ambient temperature is 76*. The truck blows just a hair over 44* in same ambient temperature, same location, same time, both in the shade. Method of testing: vent speed on low, side vents turned off (test from center console vents), temperature set to "lo" on both dials, recirculation enabled, vent direction on face only. I tested with a digital, instant thermometer rested in the vent for 10 minutes and recorded the lowest temperature and average temperature. I also turn it up to 75 and back down to lo to rule out possibility of a sticking mixture vent. The truck seems like it can never fully cool and it appears the ac is just slightly out of spec. The attached photo is a performance temperature chart for a Honda Accord but should more or less be the standard. The car met the standard, but the truck is on the "high end" of normal. 2018 Sierra 1500, 6.2 SLT with NHT What temperature does yours read at? For those of you who had to have condensers replaced, what is your AC temperature reading now? TIA!

Glad I found this thread. I am 98% sure this is what is going on in my truck. I was ready to flush the oil, etc thinking it was a lifter. Thanks for posting this!!!

Super helpful picture. Thank you for posting. I was wondering how some folks handles the diodes. Thank you for demonstrating install and how you connected reverse lights as well. Thumbs UP!

Found a fix for this. It's been months since I brought it home. It has been since day one after a few hundred miles that this noise has been there. Finally climbed under the truck to look. Then I lifted the carpet. I found there is a wire (not sure yet what it goes to) that enters from under the carpet below the left rug mount towards the seat. I first moved the wire so it was routed differently because it was causing a lump under the mat that was uncomfortable. I then put a piece of DynaMat over this to seal the grommet and wrapped the wire so there was no "air gap" to allow sound to penetrate. The sound has dropped dramatically. It is still very faint. I found the ticking is from the DI or valve train that reverberates down under the truck past the transmission/transfer case. The sound would then come through this grommet and enter the cabin. Now that there is dynamat over this, the sound is no longer as loud (hardly notable). I only had a tiny piece of dynamat so I will order a few square feet of off-brand to put a few layers on top and one under the truck. That should eliminate ALL of the ticking sounds. I am stoked! The truck finally feels "new" again.

Found a fix for this. It's been months since I brought it home. It has been since day one after a few hundred miles that this noise has been there. Finally climbed under the truck to look. Then I lifted the carpet. I found there is a wire (not sure yet what it goes to) that enters from under the carpet below the left rug mount towards the seat. I first moved the wire so it was routed differently because it was causing a lump under the mat that was uncomfortable. I then put a piece of DynaMat over this to seal the grommet and wrapped the wire so there was no "air gap" to allow sound to penetrate. The sound has dropped dramatically. It is still very faint. I found the ticking is from the DI or valve train that vertebrates down under the truck past the transmission/transfer case. The sound would then come through this grommet and enter the cabin. Now that there is dynamat over this, the sound is no longer as loud (hardly notable). I only had a tiny piece of dynamat so I will order a few square feet of off-brand to put a few layers on top and one under the truck. That should eliminate ALL of the ticking sounds. I am stoked! The truck finally feels "new" again.