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TruckStig

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  1. The AutoCal and Black Bear tune was nice on my truck when I only had an intake. Was it worth $660? I don't think so. I say it's worth the time and effort to find a shop or reputable tuner and have it tuned in person. You get instant (and more than likely better) results that way. My current issue is that after installing long tubes and dual exhaust I waited over 3 weeks on a "re-tune" that made no difference. I'm still throwing codes for running rich and they didn't even disable the rear O2 codes like I requested. I've sent in another set of logs and I'm starting the waiting process all over again. I knew I would need another tune after the headers, and that was how I justified the price (the free follow up tunes). Now I feel that it was money wasted and I'm paying $300 for a local and reputable shop to tune it with HP Tuners.
  2. Agreed, I wish I would have known.
  3. I know, right? There's a local shop that specializes in LS/LT engines and uses HP Tuners that I didn't know about when I made that purchase. I just waited over 3 weeks for a tune that does nothing, and now I'm waiting all over again to MAYBE get my issues resolved.....so I'll just go local and get instant results for less money. Lesson learned.
  4. I agree with this 100%. After spending nearly $700 for an AutoCal and mail order tuning from Black Bear, I'm about to pay a local shop to tune my truck.
  5. I would definitely replace it. I work in development for a well known tire manufacturer. We have a test facility where tires are ran until failure. That is the shoulder of the tire and a common area of failure.
  6. So, the bottom picture after the front has been raised...is that 3/6? The drop and truck both look great.
  7. Just a stock 2018 work truck with temporary wheels and tires. 5.3 with the 3.42 Twiddling my thumbs waiting on the opportunity to install my full McGaughy's suspension, Stainless Works headers, dual exhaust, Afe intake, and Blackbear tune.
  8. I spoke with the guys at stainless works before I ordered them. I do have a regular cab, the issue isn't with the headers, it's how far the x pipe goes back. I can't purchase a true bolt on exhaust that will match up to it. I'll make something work, it should all be on next week.
  9. Stainless Works stuff showed up the other day. Has anybody used these headers on a RCSB? I'll be installing them next week. I noticed they sent 1 O2 sensor extension instead of 2, I guess I'll email them and ask if I only need 1.
  10. Shouldn't the McGaugheys (#34270) 3-5 / 4-7 Deluxe lowering kit with shocks and struts be capable of only a 2" drop in the front? Since the spindle is 2" and the front struts are adjustable from 0"-3"? I'd like to try and go ~2.5" driver and ~3" passenger in the front, to get rid of the lean and try to fit the 275/55R20's with minimal rubbing.
  11. Yeah, I cancelled the aFe headers and will be ordering stainless works with the x pipe and making my own dual exhaust.
  12. I'm reading now that the stainless works headers with the x pipe do not fit a regular cab. Does anyone have these on a RCSB?
  13. This is great input. Thank you. Do you happen to know where online to find the results of these tests? The only ones I've seen were tests done on previous versions of the 5.3. I understand that in theory the same should apply for ours, I'd just like to see the data. It looks like I'll be cancelling my order tomorrow and going with the Stainless Works long tubes and X pipe.
  14. So the general opinion is that the Dyno results from aFe and the difference between their short and long tubes on a 5.3 are simply invalid and should be ignored? The only reason this confuses me is that they have no reason to skew results when comparing their own products making the cheaper one seem like the better option... right? Does anyone have before and after Dyno results or have experience with both short AND long tubes on the 5.3? I'm hearing that a header is a header, is everyone saying that a 1 3/4" shorty style with a y pipe will be the same as 1 7/8" long tubes with an x pipe?
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