Dang it, I spoke too soon. I just went for a drive to the grocery store and well, no can do. I didn't even think about the fact that being in drive the cargo lights are disabled. Oh well, I still like the mod overall.
All this said I just hope this never creates an issue with the any of the BCMs but for right now I'm loving this and probably the easiest mod I've done. Thanks to those who published which connections to shunt.
2018 Silverado WT, Sgl Cab, Std. bed, I did this mod(straight wire) which my wire was too small. If you run into that just double over you wire ends and solder. The result? Well Dang! this is nice! Another advantage which I haven't hear mentioned is that if someone is tailgating you just press you cargo light from inside the cabin and wallah, your sending you upper cargo lights, your reverse lights, I had added LED tailgate light which also light up white when in reverse mode, and you upper/lower brake lights. That should get a clear message to them tailgaters! I had already upgrade the reverse upper and lower with super bright LEDs so I love the fact I can just reach over and hit the in cab cargo light and send the message.
mfennema, thanks for the tip. On my 2018, the 7 pin trailer connector had an always hot 12VDC pin. I tied that to the LED set of bed lighting I had installed and with the switch that came with the MICTUNING 2Pcs 60" White LED Cargo Truck Bed Light Strip and this works great. Being low current draw of LEDs I'm not too worried about a dead battery since this is my daily driver. On the back of the truck next to the 7 pin trailer connector is a diagram if you look close. That and a 12VDC troubleshooting light made it easy to find the positive 12V source.
On a 2018, anyone know where a always hot connection might be around the rear of truck? I have my lights mounted. The kit came with a switch and I currently have the positive side tapped into on of the rear running lights. Since I already have a switch, it would be nice to begin the circuit with an always hot supply.
Is that what is called the K9 BCM? Is there only one BCM on our trucks(mine is a 2018 1500 single cab WT) The reason I ask is because after wiring in running board light suddenly my cargo lights and cab mounted brake lights no longer work. This of course makes me believe something I did caused this and now I need to troubleshoot this problem. :/ Oh lordy lordy , well I was at least right, I did do something to cause this. First, the brake light lamp which I replaced with an LED, was in backwards. There is the first problem solved. Next I went to the passenger side cabin fuse box and found that fuse number 10 which feeds the cargo lamps was......drum roll...........missing. What??? Ok I must be wrong so I recheck the diagram but everything is in proper place except this 15A fuse in position #10. I think this qualifies as a genuine "senior moment". I do not remember pulling that fuse and I'm pretty sure the cargo lights worked before I started the running board light project and replacing the incandescent bulbs of cargo/upper brake light lamps with LEDs. Ok, I guess I'll have to accept that as a senior moment and move on but wait......there is one more thing bothering me, 15 amps for cargo lights???? Well I put in a 5A fuse. 15 amps is getting up there and the size of these wires make me uncomfortable. Per diagrams I've found the cargo lamps are all that on this circuit and I'll sleep better know the 5A fuse is ready to open circuit at the slightest problem. Well I just had to report what I found even though it makes me look a little dumb especially for someone who was one an electronics tech. I just wanted to report the truth so nothing in my previous post causes someone else to take a wrong turn.
Ok, first thanks for responses. Second to respond to questions I have been asked. Budget - $1500 or less. Ride height and use - Stock front, rear I removed 1.25" OEM blocks. I have no interest/need in lifting truck or hauling/towing heavy loads. What bothers me - Harsh ride over normal paved street conditions. Comments/Questions to responses: Help me understand if OEM is not over sprung, why does adding a few hundred pounds in the bed suddenly transform to a smooth ride? Why don't they just make something progressive? This is why I mentioned the possibility of lighter rear springs with the addition of Sumo Springs. Contact Eibach? Sounds like a good idea, I will do that. Sulastic rear spring hangers, I will have to research that. Hope that helps those trying to help me and I do appreciate it. I realize most go the opposite direction wanting to increase ride height, load capacity, etc. I just don't have a need for that in my truck. I have a Solstice GXP with Bilsteins and added frame braces creating a "tight" more road performance platform, a 1250cc I-4 sport bike for quick acceleration. As for my truck, I do not want that kind of ride and don't expect it to handle remotely as good, just a good useful daily driver.
2018 Silverado 1500 Single Cab, standard bed, 5.3L, 2WD, 4K miles, no interest in lifting truck or hauling/towing heavy loads. Goal - create a smoother yet more controlled ride if that's possible. Reference: I've always noticed in general that trucks with a few hundred pounds in the bed rode better (smoother at least). Iv'e noticed a lot of conversation of changing to Bilstein (mostly 5100 series) shocks and positive reports. That being said I noticed most seem to do lifts or at least level the truck by bringing the front up to match rear. I removed the rear blocks (free) and like the overall affect. I spoke with Bilstein and was advised against using 5100s, stating only to use if I was lifting the truck but for my setup to use the 4600s. The representative then proceeded to tell me not to expect too much of an improvement. All this together leads me to wonder if the ride would be more improved by changing springs? My thoughts are trucks in general are over sprung to account for when they need to haul and so for everyday use they ride rough? If it is over sprung though, why do so many have positive feedback on the Bilsteins. This causes me to question my perception of the problem along with a general real lack of suspension understanding. To my "thinking" lighter springs especially in the rear, backed up maybe with these SumoSprings (to help with that rare occassion I might have more weight on the rear) which I also hear positive results on, just might be what I need? I would love feedback from some of you who understand suspension systems way better than I. I plan to have this truck a long time and love this truck except for the rough ride. I don't expect it to ride like a Cadilac but something a bit less harsh would be really nice. If it were also a bit more controlled into turns that would be icing on the cake!
Wow, now that's the kind of info I love. Details, it's always in the details. That said does anyone have details on a P/N for the 2016-2018 Silverado 1500 bed lighting harness. I have found a few instances of a matching description (Harness - GM (22878806))but would love it if someone has purchased and knows the correct part number for sure. I would rather just purchase the OEM harness than make it but I will make it if I have to.
But...wait, you could have used a bidirectional diode setup. Then you could explain the standing wave cancellation using symmetric forced electron induction along the magnetic biosphere grid lines producing equalized photon emission on both upper and lower planes. Ok, all the BS behind and yes 95% of that was BS that's a great tip I have to admit I get nervous shunting wire plugs diode or not when I don't have a schematic to follow.
Sorry for my ignorance, assuming I get this info on my 2018 Silverado 5.3 WT with only convenience and tow packages, what can I use this for? Is this just info a shop might need to work on my truck or is there something else I can use this for? Thanks
Just feedback on what I did. Yes, I purchased the Borla ProXS Muffler on Amazon Borla 40359 . Cold start might just be the loudest. It did make a difference and sounds pretty good at full throttle. As far as drone noise there is none. Actually at highway speed I don't hear it at all unless I really get on it. I would like it to be a little louder but worried taking the resonator out might make it have drone noise on the highway. Hope that helps others interested in the muffler. I did no other changes but swap out OEM muffler for this one. The muffler is a straight through design with baffling but nothing directly blocking airflow. As far as I can tell there is no real performance improvement just a somewhat better sound.
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