1998 c1500 5.7 vortec long cranking My 98 chevy recently started bogging down on the highway so I replaced the fuel filter and it quit bogging. Now the the problem is cranking. After sitting for a few hours it cranks over for like 5 or 6 seconds before starting and it will run and drive perfectly fine. If it sits for less than 2-3 hours it will fire up as soon as the key is turned. There are not any codes shown so it hasn't picked up a misfire or lean conditions code. I checked the fuel pressure at the test valve and it shows 50 with the key on engine off and it stays at roughly 50 the engine on. Maybe the test gauge was inaccurate? It did look like its been used a lot since it was an autozone rental. The fuel pump was replaced with a cheap one from 1aauto 3 years back. Maybe the fuel pump is getting weak? What should i do? There is no lack of power that I have noticed.
So i have an 87 r10 and the fuel pump is not coming on. It had a new fuel pump then it sat for 3 years, now it will not start and i figured the pump messed up again. I replaced it but no prime. I can hear the relay come on for a few seconds then click off. I bypassed the oil pressure switch and i did a tune up and replaced the icm under the distributor cap. Nothing. It is getting spark. I cant find any messed up wires to the pump. I don't know what to do next. Can anyone help lead me in the right direction? The actual fuel sending unit itself has never been replaced, just the pump.
So i had a leaking lower hose and I decided i should replace everything since the cooling system has 265k miles. I replaced the upper and lower hose, the reservoir and reservoir hose, the thermostat, the coolant temp sensor, and the temp sender unit. First issue was the coolant temp sensor which caused a cel so i exchanged it. Next my temp started reading high and as i drove, the gauge went to like 235f or 240f so I stopped and put my infrared thermometer to the thermostat housing and it read 198f. The old temp sender used to be fine even though it had a bare wire. I exchanged the sender and the new one read the same temp, so what do i do now?
So I bought new tail lights and i swapped in led bulbs rather than the factory bulbs. Running lights, and reverse lights work perfectly fine but when i step on the brake or put my turn signal on the lights do not get brighter or flash for turning. To attempt and fix this i bought an led flasher relay. This did not fix the issue. Next I wired in led load equalizers and still nothing. I even pulled the led flasher relay and put the old one in and still nothing. I then put the old bulbs back in and they work as they should. What should do?
I got a po440 code and i replaced the gas cap and the service engine light went off. A few weeks later it comes back on again. The fuel pump is new so i figured that sensor is fine. Po440 is the only code being thrown so what could this be ?
I did replace the fuel pump with one from 1aauto so i guess i may be paying for that now
Twice now, a month apart, my 98 c1500 with the 5.7 vortec has tried to start and stalls instantly. After several tries it finally started and sounded fine with no lack in power or throttle response. I figured it wasnt the starter because it kept cranking for a few seconds and i heard no clicking noises. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, and the tps within the last year. My transmission is not slipping but i do hear a rattling when i have my foot on the brake and i put the truck into drive or reverse. Someone told me my torque coverter was going out and that this is why my truck has started to do this. Any advice on what i should do?
Also make sure you do not have a defective cat because i kept getting cyl 3 misfire and it was the cap terminal for cyl 3
So usually at a hot idle my oil pressure is between 15 and 20 psi and at 75 mph my pressure is usually between 40 and 45. I changed my oil before a road trip and on the trip my oil started to fluctuate between 45 And 55 psi...could this mean something bad?(245,000 miles)
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