Brian Lindsey

no very easy, should be a pin or a hole on topside of ignition ,with key installed , depress pin or stick small screwdriver down hole , press turn switch to accessory and pull out, the pin has to go down far enough to clear wall

it looks right to me , but most setups have more than one relay , look at painless wiring and look at their fan set up, and make sure your main power wire is 12 gauge https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/fans

if you have a 4x4 shop near you , they should be able to give you that information, or im sure you can find it on internet someone has posted it somewhere. i have factory specs on the same truck , but not for altered suspension ,on standard suspension it will be around 100 ftlb ,

yes that should work, those keys were notorious for key falling out of tumbler, make sure you lube it with 3inone oil before installing , it hung up for lack of lube, and too much dust. if that one doesnt fit , most auto parts stores have them

i have the flex-a-lite set up , it has a controller, everything wires into that controller will regulate fans for cooling engine and a/c, my advice before you do this is upgrade your battery cables all power and grounds, they talk about doing the big three , batt positive to alternator, ground from alt to batt , starter cable to batt , and engine ground to frame or body. you can look those up on youtube , but i have a 23 yr old truck , so i upgraded all cables to 1/0 heavy duty, that way there will be no power drop anywhere , also make sure you use 12 gauge wire for your power source , there is a guy on youtube that did it all the wrong way and almost burned up his wiring harness, and while in thinking about it you might want to upgrade your alternator to a 140 amp, the fans will pull alot of amps. thats why all the upgrades to run the fans and save your wiring harness. if you dont have the flex-a-lite setup , painless wiring has a relay set up just for electric fans, i think it has 4 relays all wired ready to go.

i dont think its plugged in to anything

as you can see below , white plug goes back into nother harness

as you can see below , white plug goes back into nother harness

ok , ill look today, but i dont think it has anything to do with wipers

what vehicle are you showing us , and are you talking about the big plug or the white connector, with a little more information , someone here might be able to help you . i have a 98 k1500 and it looks like your near the fuse box right below hood hinge, if so , i could look at mine and see if i knew we are looking at same thing

when i first got my 98 , the brakes also didnt work well, it took bleeding about once a week for a month to get all the air out, then i replaced the master cylinder cause it went bad , and went though this process again, not far from my home i found a repair shop that specialized in older gm's , i took it there, and we went for a drive for about 3 miles and discussed my truck with owner of shop , and he said this is as good as your brakes are going to get,

you keep doing it as many times you need to get the air out, when that is done , then bleed wheels, the pedal will still be low ,, but not to the floor, you can check it by driving at about 25 mph and slam the brakes , they should be higher then

no , you dont need a scanner to bleed abs module , its more efficient if you do it that way, but it can be done with out, go to the engine bay and remove the computer nearest to firewall, dont unplug it , just move it out of way , at the rear of the abs module with be a bleeder port , bleed your abs from there , then rebleed all your brake again here is a picture of bleeder valve.

no , you dont need a scanner to bleed abs module , its more efficient if you do it that way, but it can be done with out, go to the engine bay and remove the computer nearest to firewall, dont unplug it , just move it out of way , at the rear of the abs module with be a bleeder port , bleed your abs from there , then rebleed all your brake again here is a picture of bleeder valve.

im going to agree with cam on this , , its just worn out

is that an oem seal or aftermarket, these trucks are very picky on what parts you put on it, my suggestion would be get a gm seal and try that, and on the bigger 5.7 they tell you not to reuse cover , replace both when doing seal , your 4.3 might be the same way

i bought mine on amazon a couple yrs ago ,don't have link

i have an LED version and it looks better than oem , just remember to cut the yellow wire and tape it up , other wise , brake light stays on , wont drain battery , but will stay on , you will see what i mean once you plug it in the gasket for them is not avail anywhere , i used a piece of a 3mm wetsuit and made one, seals very well

yes , after bleeding abs , you bleed system as you normally would

bleeder valve is under computer near cab on fender side, you have to remove computer , don't disconnect it , just move it aside and you will see it where my finger is pointing

there is a bleeder on the ABS module is on the cab side of it, just press the bleeder button , so you really dont need a scan tool, also most code readers do not have bleeder capabilities , you would need a scan tool . one that can talk to computer. if needed i can send picture of bleeder port

wow , you are pretty proud of that adapter to charge 219.00

i would suggest checking all your grounds,

does it crank over, is first step

your transmission isnt going into park , how oid is your trans. might be time for rebuilt or replacement, its not going to get better , only worse