Jump to content

Brian Lindsey

Member
  • Posts

    215
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Brian Lindsey

  1. 3 years ago i had same problem , my rear diff was soo worn out the teeth on both gears were sharp , my rear diff bound up and took out my transfer case , driveline , and trans adapter, i was in alabama at the time , cost almost 3000 to get it back on road to get it home and finish repairs
  2. gearwrench has a complete flair nut wrench set , used to have a sale , buy metric set and get sae set, 6 wrenches in each set , it was about 70.00 for both sets
  3. are your motor mounts good, if the engine flexes too much it might bind up throttle
  4. i would just rent a coolant pressure tester , from local part house , pump it up to 15 lbs and see if you can find the leak , like cam says might be head gasket , could also be intake, they have a problem with leaks Coolant Leaking From Intake Gaskets (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L) /images/articles-200-299/250/259/index-thumbs/image_thumb_home_page_1.jpg One of the most common problems on the GM Vortec ‘Spider’ 4.3L, 5.0L, and 5.7L engines is coolant leaking from the intake manifold... [read more] at: troubleshootmyvehicle.com
  5. https://trailers.com/tow-capacity/1995_Chevrolet_GMC_Suburban_C1500_(2WD)_1385.html this is as close as i could get to your truck , engines are different but the 5.7 is a strong engine
  6. there are two grounds on right side of engine , one on top and one on back side of head , those both go to a/c system, need to check them
  7. stepdown drill bit would be perfect, https://www.amazon.com/CO-Z-Titanium-Automatic-Aluminum-Multiple/dp/B076QC39PY/ref=sxin_15_ac_d_mf_br?ac_md=2-1-Q08tWg%3D%3D-ac_d_mf_br_br&crid=30A6DR8B70KQ9&cv_ct_cx=step+down+drill+bits&dchild=1&keywords=step+down+drill+bits&pd_rd_i=B076QC39PY&pd_rd_r=112f2032-e2c9-4daf-9e6d-ec85b24e0518&pd_rd_w=joJvH&pd_rd_wg=Ga8Ox&pf_rd_p=240a6b3d-c685-4c82-a634-b1e102521208&pf_rd_r=D6NCY3ABN5FD3QYDAENM&psc=1&qid=1631098250&sprefix=step+down+drill+bits%2Caps%2C204&sr=1-2-50772b5e-7b2f-4320-b1f5-e3fa93385c7d
  8. can you get washers at hardware store and drill them out , i think body washers should be big enough
  9. on my 98 i have 18 grounds throughout the truck, so no a ground to intake is not unusual , there is something draining the battery overnight , with everything shut off you need to start by removing your negative cable of battery and put an amp meter in between bat and neg cable, then see what the draw is, then start pulling fuses till that draw goes away, once you find the fuse , then check your wires on that circuit to find the draw. it could take awhile so you need to have patience, you shouldnt have more than 0.050 amps draw on electrical system , any more than that is a parasite draw
  10. sounds like rear diff bearings are bad, you are gonna be getting deep in rear diff , so you will need bearing kit at the least, you wont know what else till you open it up , but prepare for replacing more, maybe ring and pinion and so forth
  11. i believe 96 to 99 or maybe up to 2001 , you would be wise to check measurements though
  12. my truck is a 98 and that is the code for keyless on it , wouldnt think the would change it
  13. try summit racing , they have good prices and free shipping over a certain amount
  14. 96 to 2001 i think, to 99 im sure
  15. what trim package is it ,slt , sle ,wt ? , the first to have it , third not so sure
  16. i think they changed dimensions of bed in 2000, so im not positive , but i think they will not fit
  17. did you try https://www.lmctruck.com/chevy-gmc-truck-1988-1998?Page=4
  18. sounds like the pass lock relearn is done, thats what its supposed to do, you might have a bad fuel pump. you should never clear codes till the problem is fixed,
  19. you need to start with spark to plugs, if no spark , then trace back to distributer to where you have power , also check your grounds around the engine , there are several of them , they all need to be clean and working, it you have a test light will help you alot
  20. doug is correct , the plunger in the master cylinder has seals they are letting fluid bypass between chambers of the master cylinder, basically the seals are not sealing
  21. you might have a bad ignition switch , check the pink wire coming off the switch , it should be hot in the start position
  22. your master cylinder is bypassing, need to replace it, fluid is just flowing by the plunger , after awhile it will leak into brake booster
  23. i had same problem with pass lock a couple yrs ago and had to do all this
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,728
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Disabled Mike
    Newest Member
    Disabled Mike
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 705 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...