Bo Evans

Like I said before, It all depends on how much you pay, i paid 43k for my 3.0 LTZ 4x4 (same price as your RST) with a better package to boot and get better mileage and better warranty and a lot more torque. I had no haggling either, just a few text messages, come in and sign. My choice was deciding between an LT 3.0 4x4 for 39k or LTZ 3.0 4x4 for 43k. I actually wanted the RST for the painted bumpers but am glad I stuck with LTZ again for cooled seats in the TX summers. Would you trade your 5.3 RST for an LTZ 3.0? There is your answer ?. Just have to find the right deal.

Not a pissing match by no means but my 3.0 LTZ 4wd was 43k. You take 5k off that diesel price initially and that changes, not to mention a higher trim level. It all depends on the price you pay. I have gas vehicles and diesel vehicles and have had MANY of them and they both have their place. I am curious if the 3.0 will carry a higher value like other diesels.

$6000 more for the engine and twice as much for batteries and oil changes? Not trying to argue here as I own the “diesel” you are speaking of but this thread is not referring to that, it is about the 3.0. Not trying to argue as you have some valid points but also some VERY non valid points.

Is this the Zone 3.5" adventure series or the 4" true suspension lift?

I have had 6.2, 5.3, 6.6, 3.0 and currently own 5.3, 3.0, and 6.6 diesel. I have even had 5.3 and 6.2 supercharged. I love my 3.0 and it is fun to drive. The ONLY thing I want is a little more mid range power and I am hoping the Banks derringer will deliver that. I seem to be about like you when it comes to driving. I do not miss my last truck that was a supercharged 6.2 with mid travel and 35s when it comes to speed or power but I do miss the suspension every day lol.

I was simply covering all bases and you pulled a single line out of a paragraph of info ?. However I do like anything I drive to have some giddy up.

It WILL NOT blow it out of the water on power. I own a 3.0 and have owned numerous 5.3s and 6.2s with and without forced induction, the 3.0 is under 280 HP however has 460 TQ so it is quick and the TQ comes on quickly at 1600 RPMs 100%. 5.3 and 3.0 tow numbers are relative and they are almost identical in a drag race depending on elevation. I prefer the diesel over the 5.3 and I do drive 75-80 everywhere (Texas) and my 3.0 in stock form gave me 25-26 mpg consistently hand calculated. I do not see the 5.3 doing so but if you do not want to pay a little extra then go with the 5.3. My decision this go round was between the 6.2 and 3.0. I went 3.0 because premium fuel and diesel are very close in price here and no way a 6.2 will touch the 3.0 for mileage however it is obviously not as fast. I use this truck for work commutes as I was getting tired of getting 13 mpg in my supercharged 6.2 with mid travel suspension and 35s. I will warn you though that if you add much to the 3.0 the mileage will suffer. I put 20" wheels with 33s on it and pulled the lower valance, leveled it and I get 22 now driving 75-80. Hope this helps

I would think someone like Edge and Banks could get us a little more though with emissions intact. Even a 50HP and maybe 50-100TQ gain would be substantial. I am not looking for the 200HP/350TQ gains we see with our big brothers as I have had numerous 6.6s.

Make sure and get your rails tilted outward slightly so that the outside edge sits down nicely on the bed rail. This will aid in proper drainage...

Just fyi, I have an LTZ Z71 Dmax with a 1” level and I can get my right front to rub at full lock in reverse. 275/60/20, 20x9 0 offset. I couldnt believe it when i heard it but it has happened a few times now. I would caution against going bigger unless you opt for a bigger leveling kit but with my 1” my truck is damn near level.

Absolutely. I have owned every V8 engine GM has made and multiple of each 5.3, 6.0, 6.2 plus the 6.6 diesel in multiple years. I have added superchargers/cams etc on 5.3 and 6.2. I am nearing middle age now and getting away from some of the “fun” stuff and I absolutely love my Baby dmax. Granted it is not near as fast as what I am use to driving but it is more than sufficient and the mpgs are just too damn good. I have a 2019 dually for towing so that was not my purpose in going diesel this time around in my everyday vehicle.

2020 3.0 Dmax, LTZ, Z71 Sticker $55,655, Paid $44,120 Bought 1/29/2020 Leaks like a MFER!!!

Thanks Yea, I have looked at that already, but you have to order coils separate and also do shocks I assume? I do not want to be compressing springs and whatnot....

I called and spoke to Fox already, I have the part numbers. I have always ran the King 2.5s in the past and have them on all 4 corners of my wife's tahoe. Wanted to go with a little bit cheaper option this time around.

Call Fox and look up their part number released 2 weeks ago. adds 1.5-2" lift just as the King 2.5s do...

What part numbers are you ordering? I am also interested in full C/O replacement but I do not want more than 1.5" lift...

It was not close, it actually touched the second "wrinkle" of the cv boot. I watched it just barely rub along it as I turned the rotor. Granted this was with the truck on the jack but still...I have the 1" Motofab on the way atm and will make it work regardless until I decide to go to the Fox 2.0 C/O option. Main reason I am not already is because I think the Fox will make me nose high and then I would have to do a 1" block in the rear and I am trying to stay very mild with how high I go because I like this 25-27mpg stuff lol.

Since my motofab 1.5" touched the CV boot (LTZ, Z71, Dmax), I am going to try to do a 1" since I only have a 1 3/8" rake on one side and 1 1/2" on the other. 1/2" rake left would be good for me. Hopefully the slight difference in spacer thickness will suffice, if not, I may clearance "notch" the lower loop on the shock mount...I am running 20x9 0 offset Hostile wheels with Nitto Duras 275/60/20...

I don't see why the BD kit will not work on my LTZ? The grille is the same "style" as the white truck posted.

I went and tested my leaker and what is stated above is correct however water can enter the top of the window frame from the front of the spoiler as well. I poured water in the small void/indention on the top of the cab edge and it simply ran under the spoiler edge onto the top of the window frame and into the cab. Therefore any water on the roof while driving will channel to this void along the edge of cab down the weatherstripping on the roofs edge and under the spoiler. I am going to try to find a way to prevent this along with doing weatherstripping on the lower rear edge of the spoiler at some point. This is such BS as I am not willing to take mine to the dealer yet for them to tear up...

We need some guys with leakers do this and see, I will be doing it as soon as I get off this remote location and get time.

I installed this exact kit on my 2020 LTZ 4x4 and the CV boot rubbed on the bottom of the shock so I removed it right then. I am going to go with an upper strut spacer I guess.

Have not looked in the thread in 10 days due to being on vacation out of state but have email notifications set for it and was amazed at how many I had from posts. Anyways my truck is a 2020 Dmax and my leaking window is an E9 as well. I am in the same situation as another guy mentioned and my schedule does not allow me to do a circus act with the dealer as I work out of town and I live an hour from my dealer. I will sit back and watch this unfold I guess especially since I paid for an extended warranty. I have towels rolled up in my back window all the way across and blue paper towels stacked in the corners of the floorboard. I really want to do all the spoiler repairs myself, I replaced my wife's tahoes "fin antennae" because they wanted like $600 to do it and I bought the part for like $100, but I am not touching this truck as far as this window problem goes. I hate it though because I buy a lot of mods and whatnot and I hate to do a buyback or lemon law situation after already buying parts like retrax pro covers, wheels/tires, stereo equip etc.

I have bought 3 times as many trucks (all GM) as the average person and have dealt with enough of these kinds of issues and the dealer sold me the unit knowing of this issue, there has been a TSB out for over a year now. IMO, they should fix the ones on the lot before selling them. I am not trying to get flies, I am trying to get what I paid for and that is not a truck that leaks that has been in my possession for 2 weeks...

Finally, I can post! This forum would not let me join saying I was answering the security question wrong over and over but I guess the FB option worked. Anyways, wanted to post here to mark it for myself, I own a 2020 LTZ 1500 Duramax (couple weeks, 1000 miles). Mine leaks on the drivers side but can't notice any wetness on headliner, floor was soaked under rear seat, work a lot so can not be without my truck too long but my dealer will be getting an ear full regardless. Thank you to all of the members for all of the information. I read through about 10-20 pages random spots of the 99!