Bensjamming

I did the proper way and put them both in from the top, mainly so if a nut should come off I wouldn't lose the bolt out the bottom and cause major havoc. It took me about 20 minutes per side and that was doing it myself. Its not hard at all to do it that way. I think from looking back at it that you could possibly even skip the upper ball joint and get it in by unhooking the tie rod and just sharply turning the hub to move the shift out of the way. Even with separating the UBJ it only took about 45 minutes start to finish for it all, including putting the tools away.

I also have the same truck and went with a 2" leveling kit, some 20x9 wheels with a 0mm offset and 275/55/20 durations and could have went with the 275/60s without a problem. You will be fine and most likely don't even need the upper control arms unless you want to try and correct the balljoint angles.

Any rubbing issues at all? I played it safe with 275/55/20 with 20x9 wheels with a 0 offset and don't have much room to spare when turning on level ground. Especially don't want to be in the woods somewhere end up tearing the wheel wells apart once the suspension has some articulation to it but think I could have gotten away with a little bit bigger tire with a RC 2 inch leveling kit installed

Well made up my mind on what to get and had it all mounted and balances yesterday. Got my leveling kit installed and alignment done. Loving it so far. 2018 Silverado 2" RC Leveling kit with 20x9 0 offset Hostile Furys wrapped in G/Y Duratracs 275/55/20 https://imgur.com/gallery/lSuINPu

I ended up just taking it all apart and doing it the right way. Start to finish it took me about 45 minutes to do both sides by myself this morning. Was way easier then I thought it was going to be.

I was thinking the same thing. Is the interference with the cv axle then I take it? If so I might just measure the thickness of the stock configuration from bolt head to end of stock bolt and then just add the thickness of the spacer and cut the bolts right away. Just seemed like alot more work then needed when they could be put in the other way.

Why does it matter with the RC 2' spacers if you install the bolts from the top down or if you have the nuts on the top of the strut since neither the head or not come into contact with the spacer itself?

What is the offset and tire size? Looking at getting the same ones with a RC 2 inch level but dont want any rubbing preferably with the mudflaps on still....