Chev85

Ok fellas, calling in the reinforcements. I have this unusual tink sound coming from what I believe is in the driver front wheel area. It only happens under extremely light throttle, pulling away from a dead stop just after the truck starts rolling. It occasionally happens when slowing down under light braking just before coming to a stop. It's the strangest thing as normal accelerating/braking and hard driving, it doesn't make a sound. Looked all over this thing with nothing showing any signs. Had it at the dealer too and of course, they couldn't recreate the noise. I'm fairly certain it is not in the suspension, and just did front brakes hoping it was a noisy pad slapping the retainer. So that leaves me at the driveline, axle, differential, maybe transfer case, possibly front U-joint... Everything looks good to me and the dealer who did inspect everything. Seen old posts referring to the same noise but unfortunately they never replied back. I haven't done the lower control arm bolt and cross member bolt re-torque per the TSB but I'm not thinking that is what's going on. Anyone run into this before with a resolution?

Still up for grabs... Best offer will take it!

Glad to hear it worked out! I also broke the tab on my original short tube And glad I helped with things. It seems like some are happy with the fit of just screwing in the long tube as is but looking back, I wish I would've just left things be!

Originally, I came across this post about the newer filler tube fitting right on our trucks. I ordered one since it was cheap and liked how it made adding oil easier but also wanted it for later adding a catch can and not fighting the hoses to get to the oil cap. When I put mine on, it was a very loose fit and had me questioning if water and/or dirt could seep past the o-ring entering the engine. I noticed that there is already a short plastic fill tube on our trucks. The oil cap does not screw directly into the aluminum valve cover. You can see the new tube screwed into the short original tube in my one picture above. With the locking tabs on the fill tube(s) you can either twist them off till you break the tab and try to fish out the broken piece that falls into the rocker area, or remove the valve cover and use a small pick to release the tab. After I got mine all apart, it is was a much tighter fit while screwing the long tube directly into the aluminum valve cover. Doesn't move at all and seals nicely. Since I struggled a little getting the original plastic coil cover off over the long tube, I ordered the 2019+ plastic cover as well. Fits like a glove, and with the gusset on the long tube at the elbow, I'm pretty certain the original coil cover would not even fit with the new tube screwed directly into the valve cover. Does that make any sense? I'm trying to describe it well but feel like I'm rambling! Compare my last picture to the others above. You can see how the fill tube is sitting lower and how it fits with the new plastic cover that is notched out instead of just a hole.

Certainly; Filler Tube - 12691785 Upper Insulator - 12674122 Valve Cover Gasket - 12619787 I did not need the valve cover gasket. They're reusable but for $4.00 it was good insurance to have it. I cleaned the head surface and gasket, which stayed in the valve cover, with a shop towel and rubbing alcohol. Set it back on carefully and did a two step torque sequence from center bolts out. 44 in lbs first pass, 89 in lbs second pass.

I ended up just buying the kit and it went in nice and seemed well made. I was sold on that it will still bypass the cooler due to crushed line or clog. Figured the tapped/screwed way wouldn't and maybe the flipped pill might. Not even sure it's a major deal. Never seen a clogged or crimped line before. Trans temps for me on even hard runs on 95 degree days stays around 165-ish at most.

Since I wasn't happy with the fitment on mine, I went all the way with things. Pulled the valve cover, removed the short tube from the factory and installed the 2019+ tube and coil cover. All is well again! BBK shorty headers fell on too!

New unused Katech TB for your 6.2 L86. Asking $200 shipped. Was going to use for the l86 manifold swap on my 5.3 but heading in different direction with the truck.

Mine moves excessively, so much I have a rag wrapped around the joint and will be pulling the valve cover off soon to remove the extended fill tube. I have a feeling that it'll screw directly into the aluminum valve cover tightly, but at this point I'm thinking I will just leave it as it was. I noticed the coil cover was a little tricky to get off now but it does clear the tube. I noticed the coil cover on the 2019+ are a little different to allow easier removal. I actually ordered a used valve cover off ebay from a totaled 2017 just to see how things look. Waiting to pull my valve cover until a few more under hood parts show up so I can do all the work at once. I'll try to get some pictures if anyone's interested, but I'd recommend against this addition, and double check what you have if you already done it. Kinda stinks having to remove the valve cover just to get this tube off, which I admittedly knew before hand!

Hi all, first post here but been lurking for a while! Just put on the 19+ fill tube myself and have to say it's a little sloppy fit. It will wiggle around some and I can see the blue o-ring easily and somewhat concerned it is not going to keep trash from entering the valve cover. What's some of yours looking like? Going to try to take a look at a 2020 we have a work to see if it compares.