2500W/T

I installed a B&W hitch system to tow my 5th wheel 43 ft camper. It bolts right on the chassis, is pricey but you get what you pay, a great system.

Is this rim a 17x9.5?

There is way to disable the DRL from the headlights and enable it at the Turn Signal markers?

Funny is, if you trace the Flu/Cold around the globe, 'Rona seems to follow the same path. For example, Australia and New Zeland, what 2 gems, not a single case, closed the borders, NZ Jacinda Arden, the Kiwi's savior... well, take note, while in the Northern Hemisphere was in winter, positive cases on the rise. Now, the Southern Hemi is on their winter cycle and they are Mates, Guys... the 'Rona behaves like a flu. Treat it as such. We will rise again as soon winter arrive and why is that? Less Sun, less Vitamin D. Eating crap, less Zinc and Vitamin C. Specially the associated sweets that comes with the holidays. I bet, mark my words, as soon we start hitting winter, the Aussies and Kiwis will see improvements. Oh, by the way... we are on a decline of Flu, Pneumonia, even Motor Accidents deaths, they are getting cataloged as 'Rona as long the test is positive and nobody bothers to check or care.

Yes, he wants to demolish the L5P but is after on what components are the weakest. That is why I posted Episode 14, he goes in great details and why he went with an aftermarket cam. Obvious reasons, was the Choke Point, cannot shove more Air in the engine, not enough Valve Overlap. Bigger Turbo, Compressor, etc... would made no difference. Also, want the engine to fail, find the weak point, demonstrate how much stress you can put on this motor. Any idiot can kill any Diesel by dumping a crap load of Fuel, burn the pistons and the valves. I think he is seeking for the L5P to snap the crank or throw a rod or blow/crack a head. So far, looks indestructable to me. For what I see, with all 100% internals and follow his research, you can pass the 900 HP mark and 1200+ Ft/Lbs and the motor should last a long time and reliable. Adding the Cam will put you over the 1K HP. To me, that extra cost, does not grant the increase on power for street purposes. I think what he is going to break is a Valve Spring.

I think, this time, will skip the Tonneau Cover. Since the truck main purpose is to haul our 5th Wheel Camper, intalling and removing the 5th Wheel Hitch is easier to deal with. Beside, when brand new, after the liner was on, I hauled 3 oak trees to the dump site, 5 trips. I am using the truck like a truck. Maybe in the future, might get a Tonneau Cover, who knows.

I got 2020 4x4 Duramax 2500HD Long Bed WT with Z82 Tow Package when the market was shîtty, very shîtty, 46K out of the door. Why I went with the WT? After looking all the LTZ, High Country and the rest of the high end trim, it was way too much coin for my taste. All I wanted is the Powertrain and Chassis. Turns out, that is the same identical Powertrain and Chassis as the 80K truck. Also, the WTs has all the stuff that is a must for me, like Crusie Control, AC, Gauges, Power Lock and Windows, Remote Keyless Entry, Vinyl/Rubber Carpet was a huge plus, Rear AC Vents, 6 Speaker System, 7 in Touch Screen, USB Port (Android Audio). The rims... well the ungliest one from the bunch but we all change rims anyway, why pay for extra stuff anway. So I saw a clean canvas and took the chance. Edit. This is what is on the Z71 Package. What is in Bold are the features on the WT. I considered unnecessary the Z71 since all in my taste important features came with the WT. Z71 Off-Road Package gifts the 2020 Chevrolet Silverado with: Z71 Off-Rad suspension with Rancho™ twin tube shocks (Rancho monotube shocks on Trail Boss) Hill Descent Control Skid plates Heavy-duty air filter with industry-first air filter monitor Metal underbody shield Z71 hard badge (TW, LT, RST and LTZ models) 2-speed Auto-Trac Transfer case (WT, LT, RST and LTZ models) 18” all-terrain Blackwall tires (LT, RST and LTZ models) 18” Bright Silver painted aluminum wheels (LT and RST models) Automatic Locking Rear Differential (WT, LT and RST models) Dual exhaust with polished tips (LT, RST and LTZ models) May require additional optional equipment

I have no experience with Rhino Liner but this is my 2nd truck with LineX. Had to cut a hole for the B&W 5th Wheel/Gooseneck adapter. Used a cricular saw to cut it, you can ser how thick is Line X. The red part is the bed thickness, the blue part is the LineX, is about 1/8 in thick.

I hardly cough due to great health. I am over half a century old and do not take a single medication. My lab work always checks out perfect. And if I do (cough and/or sneeze).... as a courtesy, always covered, is common sense and manners. Well, this thread as many others on other forums, all boils down to the Masked Vs Un-Masked. Kens/Karens Vs The People

My current sources... My wife is a clinical nurse, house suppervisor and talk to doctors. Honestly, I have no faith on Allopathic Medicine. Allopaths are taught through academia and memorize all sorts of ideas. What western medicine is good for is Trauma Treatments. The Allopaths fix all issues with some sort of pharmaceuticals, troubleshoot skills are near to 0 or 0. Why they have Protocols? Because they are dumb asses and that ensure the proper treatment. Science is about calling Bullshît all the time and if Science is believed by faith, is not Science, is a Cult. For what I see, read and experienced, Vaccinations are way overrated. Much so, they are fast tracked without any proper testing, futher more.... you can be killed with a vaccine and pharmaceuticals are liable for any wrong doing. Why always has to be a vaccination and not a "pill"? Is the certification and aproval, 2 different animals. Lets play Darwing and you take the shot, me none, whoever survive take the planet. I guess I am on 4 Cents ?

Cool, nice, I love Electric... with a twist. Ditch the doggone battery. As long they come with one, I keep my Liquid Fuel vehicles. Here is how to look at it.... Betteries are NOT Fuel Tanks, they are more like Compressed Air Tanks. Imagine that you have a Compressed Air Tank driving an Air Motor, like an Air Drill. Each time you open the valve to drive the motor, pressure is realeased. The pressure never comes back up, eventually, you will have some pressure left but not enough power to move anything. A Fuel Tank, does not matter, full or a dab, the motor still puts out the same power. So... when electric vehicles pull the energy like Nikola Tesla wanted to do, wirelessly, sure, I will be the 1st one at the dealer.

My 2 cents. In my opinion, based on observations, data and information. This bug is a Bio Weapon, but not just a Bio Weapon to kill us all. Is a Binary Bio Weapon. Needs a "Part B" to make it work, if you do not get that part and if you have good health, is like a cold/flu. For what I have been reading, is laced with SARS and HIV. When is presented to the body, depending how attaches it to the cells to replicate itself, the body launches an attack to kill the bug. The body overreacts and pretty much drowns itself in mucus. Now, if you take lots of Vitamin C, take a lot of sun (Vitamin D) along with Zinc, your body will shake this bug out. The Flu Shots, have compounds to "enrage" your immune system, so do not take any stupid ass vaccinations and eat healthy. Ditch all junk foods, sugars, corn syrups and such, you will see how not even allergies get you. As far masks... what load of crap... the analogy is, wearing a Mosquito Net on your face in a Dust Storm. I wear none, period, no question asked. The Virus floating in the air enters your eyes and the few wearing the mask bellow the nose, enter through the nose... so the damage is done. The Mouth Diaper is a total waste of time. What that I fear the most, are the citizens squealing like pigs ratting you out like delusional "Karens". They are so misserable eating propaganda and jealous of your freedon, they have to bring you down to their misserable shît hole of status they have.

Who is watching Gale Banks series? Is 15 parts long, very detailed, lots of good info. Long series short. He wants to blow up a Duramax L5P with bone stock internals. So far, got 912 HPs and some north of 1200 Ft/Lbs torque. His limitation was the cam, not enough duration. So he got one from Comp Cams and was able to get 1,004 HP and 1300+ Ft/Lbs torque. The engine, still running. Part 14 he goes into great detail on the Cam Specs and many other issues. Lots of engine tech and the dreaded.... math. Dare to watch ?

I would not sweat it, as long it meets GM specs it will be ok. I stay awat from Boutique Oils, Potions, Lotions and Lubricants. Is just to darn expensive for no much more for protection.

I have AFM/DOD on my G8 6.0 L76 motor, has already over 150K on the clock and run as good as new. Waiting for the system break as an excuse to do a delete but still runing. All I use is Mobil 1 5W30 and change the oil per OLM.

Yes, they are supposed to sound like that way, that is how the Diesel burn, by heat and pressure. That is when a Gasser is over heated and/or use a lower Octane fuel, the fuel start to burn before the spark ignites it, the shockwave translate into a knock. The anti Knock Sensor picks that up and advance or ret@rd the ignition timing to get the best from the fuel, that is also why newer cars are more flexible with what fuel you put in them. An old term for a Gasser that will not shut off was called "Dieseling", have anybody seen the movie Vacation with Chevy Chase? When he brought the Queen Family Truckster to his house, the engine does not turns off and sounds like a Diesel engine? The good old days of Carburetors and low Octane fuels. Since when the word "R-E-T-A-R-D" is censored.. that is absurd !!! What is the opposite of Advance?

Searched around the forum and could not find any info about them, so I researched on my own. Moderators, move thread to where is more appropriate. On my 2020 2500 HD W/T does not have the RPO codes on the usual location (glove box), but they are located on the B Pillar in a form of Qr Code on the lower part, along with the Tire Pressures, Cargo/Trailer Capacities. On this Website, click on your vehicle logo, on the top right corner, choose the correct the vehicle. from there, is pretty easy to use. Not all RPO Codes (100%) from the scan will be on the list, but at least is a start. https://www.gmfleetorderguide.com/NASApp/domestic/brandsel.jsp?year=2020&regionID=1&lang=1 Here is a video on locating the RPO Codes on new vehicles.

I am retired military and I used to do the Oil Analysis Program. Never, ever, seen a vehicle with a bad oil sample, the ones that failed were pretty obvious to detect. On our aircrafts, saw a handful that came with high iron content, changed the oil to see if the condition comes back, some did, some not. Those engines/gearboxes used MIL 23699 Synthetic oil, that oil can used in cars, good stuff, the caveat is, the equipment has to have Neoprene Rubber seals, any other type, will dry-rot and leak. Perhaps early days of the Synthetic Oils was meant to be used with Neoprene rubber type seals and newer vehicles have Neoprene Rubber and/or the oil formula is more Natural Rubber friendly. What I do not know is when that happen. So far on my 94 Geo Tracker (bought used with 125,000 miles), is not leaking and I believe no Synthetic Lubricant was used on that motor ever. Also used Mobil 1 Gear Oil in the differentials and is not leaking either. To be honest, never seen an engine of any kind failed because of "X or Y or Z" brand of oil. When engines fail is simply Abuse or Neglect or Manufacturing Defect, all or a combination of the threes.

I am sold on Synthetics, I also use the Oil Life Monitor, those 3,500 miles oil changes are long gone, like the Beetles (pun intended). Talking about Beetles, the wife's 07 Bug has a 10,000 m or 1 Year on oil changes and is requested by VW Specs to be full synthetic and 6 qts to fill for the Inline 5 2.2L Audi motor. On transmissions, the 1 problem with them is Maintenance. Most people perform maintenance on the transmission when they start to fail, looking for a potion or lotion and a flush to do its magic, by then is too late. Just a simple drain and fill will be fine. With now days transmissions is a royal pain to do, is becoming as hard as a Blood Transfusion. For that, as much as I hate it, I take to the dealer. In another hand, is like once in a blue moon. Depending on driving, I do 100,000 on cars and if I tow/haul a lot, every 50,000. You will be surprised, with proper care/maintenance a transmission will last a very long time. I use Mobil 1 5W30 on most of my cars, Castrol Syntech 0W40 on the VW Bug and now.... might go with Shell Rotella T6. The reasons of using different brands is to prevent a mistake (different weights), so I know for which car is the oil for. Or I might take advantage of the dealer's discounts. So far on my Colorado, the dealer is doing the changes, turns out that is cheaper (specials and discounts) for me for them to do it, I hope that will be the same with the Duramax. And you are 100% as long it meets the API and Manufacturer recommendations and specifications any brand of oil should be fine.

Is ok, we all do at some point. Yes, Synthetic Oils now days is cheaper to use because of less oil changes and less sludge.

The point is not about mileage, is the switching from Conventional to Synthetic. I can say is harmless to switch. Also, did the same with an 03 Impala, 170K+ later, no oil seepage either and pretty clean engine. My G8 has 154K miles, no lifter AFM/DOD failure on the L76 6.0L motor. I am sold on Mobil 1.

I have a 94 Geo Tracker, with well over 100,000 miles on the clock, original motor, started using Mobil 1 when I got it with high mileage, does not seep a single drop of oil and is all OEM.

I say Synthetic, brand immaterial as long it meet or exceed GM Specs. Why I specified Synthetic? For simple reasons, they do not gum up or breakdown like conventional (Dino) oils.