KINGENGINEMAINTENANCE

I don't think it's really a issue, just with high mileage and if and when they overheat they will blow the gaskets. Just trying to get some input of what is a reasonable price.

I am just wondering how much money it costs on average for this repair and what seems like a normal price? With or without shaving the heads and pressure testing them. Also, wondering how many have been repaired and didn't make it very long. Thanks

I have never rebuilt a T case, only gasket I know of is the one between the transmission and T case. Good luck!

Awesome to hear an old farm truck getting some love and TLC. Good luck Cheers

Agree, hard to find good help anywhere these days. Definitely replace that distributor cap. Consider putting a new fuel pump AND STRAINER. Strainer filter doesn't usually come with a new fuel pump you would have to order it as well. I have seen some nasty strainer filters on these trucks which can certainly cause a stall issue, seen it first hand. Good luck dude Cheers

Agree with last post, very strange condition though. I have had a couple times where brand new parts from the store are defective!!

An impact joint adapter comes in handy for those interior nuts and yes that clip can break easily so be aware of that. Cheers

Agree with last post. The rotor on the distributor should be pointing at cylinder 1 when engine is at TDC for cylinder 1 compression stroke. That is roughly somewhere around 5 o' clock looking at the distributor installed. If the rotor is pointing at 10 o' clock the distributor is 180 degrees off and needs to be taken out and installed correctly. It will only install 2 ways and seat fully because there is a notch at the bottom. If it is installed correctly then loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn it left or right somewhere in the middle of the travel, it should crank up then. Then use a timing light to set it at 0 degrees. Cheers

Yo, I have had a situation where I was trying to track down an issue in a (direct injection) car and I took the fuel rail off the intake with the injectors still clipped to the rail and pointed the rail toward the front of the car (so I could crank it and see the gas) and tested them one at a time by unplugging electrical to all but one injector. They all sprayed a straight stream and did not atomize to a mist. I don't remember what issue I was tracking down this was a couple years ago but the injectors were all good. Maybe check compression on all cylinders, or if you know which cylinder is missing check compression on it. Spark gap should be at 0.060 right? Check that. Good luck! Peace

+1 for coil

Agree on crank sensor/cam sensor. Also you can test it with a voltmeter but the engine has to be cranking when you test it (hall effect). Have a buddy crank it while you test the crank sensor for voltage. Or just swap it out and know you have a new crank sensor either way. I believe it should read 5 volts! Peace and good luck!

If the distributor has been removed and you are trying to install it correctly: With cylinder 1 at TDC compression stroke, install the distributor with the rotor on the distributor pointing at cylinder 1. If you have a timing light, clip it on cylinder 1 spark plug wire and adjust the distributor to 0 degrees which is cylinder 1 TDC based on the timing marks on the crank pulley and timing cover. Peace!

Awesome dudes thanks for the info. I found a 4L60E in a 97 suburban 4x4 at the junkyard and grabbed it for $235. The engine was already removed so made it pretty easy. Haven't swapped it into the truck yet, will happen this week. I appreciate the input. Interesting that the speed sensor was different on your application. Next time I might consider using an LS style trans with a custom converter like you said just to do it. Next project is putting a 5.3 in a 95 wrangler that already has an AX15 in it. I will be hitting y'all up for some advice on that too. Thanks again cheers and peace!!!

Drop in a replacement 454 and use it on the farm and around town. Hauling long distance get you a duramax! I had an LLY stock on 285s to haul car trailer and it would tow a full size pickup on a trailer with ease. Really opened my eyes to the power of a turbo diesel V8 with 500 "torquepower!" Peace be da journey!

I have 1997 K1500 4x4 5.7L extended cab, that needs a transmission. Anybody know if the 4L60E in a 1997 Tahoe or Suburban is exactly the same as 97 K1500? I have swapped LS based 4L60Es and NP246 T-cases between LS tahoes and trucks with no issues but I'm headed to the junkyard tomorrow and might have to take a gamble on grabbing one out of a tahoe or suburban. I believe 96 97 and 98 model 4L60Es will work for 97 application. It's a single piece case, bell housing not removable. If anybody in Southeast VA northeast NC area I have 5.3 blocks, heads, intakes and more. Thanks and Peace!