remanaz

Have you tried taking it back out and reinstalling it?

The one in the link above looks to be a soft top. Good to know they make both types.

The gator looks like a soft top. Is it? I have the BF MX4 myself. I like that it is a hard top so the bed is essentially a trunk and I can feel safe leaving expensive items in there.

A front diff drop is to keep the cv axle angle similar to stock. While doing this it actually increases the front driveshaft angle at the transfer case. The transfer case will still be at the same level. If a tranny was to leak due to driveshaft angle it would be the tranny tailshaft seal that would leak.

How many of you run the AC in your vehicle or your house at 60*? I know I do not. Once the temps are below 73* the ac is off.

No assuming. From 50-59 it does not blow at all. It would be nice if there was an option to switch the ranges by 10* in either direction based on the climate of the area the owner lives in. For me, the ideal ranges would be 59* and below full heat, 60-69 nothing (not even last settings) and 70 and up full ac.

Ok it was related to XM. It seems that the 2019 LTs had to have the convenience package II to be equipped with XM. While 2021's come with it standard on most models. I know my Custom Trail boss has it. Did you have XM available on your 2019?

One would hope that they would be the same. I know there were some various changes made between 2019 and 2021. I do not know if any of them is infotainment related though. I think there were some features controlled by the infotainment unit that are different that I recently read either on here or on the Trail Boss forum. The order form for the harness does ask for the Year Make and Model. I thought that would be just for verification purposes though. IIRC in 2020 when I ordered mine they still did not have a specific listing for the 2019-2021 models. I remember having to order it as a 2014-2018 model then tell them that it was a 2021. I just visited their site and they have done some remodeling. Anything in the 1000hz to 8000hz should definitely play the chimes. Also if you are using the ch1/2 input signal for both your dash and your front doors, as you should be, then both your dash and doors should be playing the chimes. That fact slipped my mind in yesterdays post. Ok so tuning related...Since you are running separate wires to the dash I would strongly suggest running your doors as dedicated midbasses. Treat the front stage as a component set using wide banders for the highs. This is if your are looking to use the DSP to it's full potential to get you a well defined center image. If not disregard the rest of this. Perhaps starting with xo's of 45-300 for the doors and 450-20k Try various xo frequencies to see what works best of course. But the goal here is to have specific speakers play specific parts of the frequency spectrum so there is no overlap between speaker locations. Going a tad higher on the HP for the dash speakers will allow for a little more output from them. 125hz is rock bottom for those and you need to be careful how much power you feed them down that low. 300 is slightly more than one octave higher than you have them currently. The 450 is another half octave but I suggested that more for a half octave separation between the speaker locations. This is due to both the doors and the dash working together to cover the area between 300 and 450 and hopefully without causing a large hump in the area. What subs are you going to be running? SD-4's by chance? I am running 2 of the SD-4 12's under my rear seat.

Or to turn on the HEAT when it is COLD. DUH.

For those asking why I want heat at 60 and below??? Because as I said in my OP, I am cold at 60 and below. Personally I think there should be a setting option to adjust to a range that suits the environment the truck resides in. I do not remote start in the 60s because of this issue. Like OnTheReef, I like to let the idle drop down especially when I am going on my lunch break as I have limited time. It would be nice to be able to use the remote start to warm up the interior too. The truck has yet to use last known settings in the 50-59 range. The closer to 50 the more I really want the heat on as at that temp I am cold.

I may have missed this but is the new truck also a 2019 and is the radio option the same? If yes, this is truly odd. Perhaps one of the little green wires at the connector end has come loose inside the connector. Are you running tweeters specifically in the dash and what is your x-over setting for the dash speakers? I am wondering if perhaps you have crossed out the chimes. It's a long shot and is moot if you are using the same speakers and settings as your old truck. It would be nice if LLJ was better at responding. If you lived here in Phoenix I would say just go knock on their door.

It is not a heat issue. It is at night that I am wanting either heat or nothing but the truck turns on the ac. I believe it is using the outside temp sensor in the bumper and not the photo sensor in the dash. That should be for the lights. Well, I should say that it was just for lights back in the day. It wouldn't surprise me if they now incorporate it into other systems now.

Agreed 1000%

My truck has the aqua tan connectors and I am not sure if LLJ uses the same wire colors going to the amp or not. I have retained my chimes and such. For my harness the input wire colors that I have feeding input ch1/2 are white and grey. I then have output ch1/2 running via separate wires to the dash. In the DSP settings I have output ch1/2 being sent input signal from input ch1/2. Is your signal path the same as mine?

You have a 2021. That was said to be specific to the 2019 model year.

Don't use the front hi inputs. Use only 1/2, 3/4 and 5/6.

Who chose the temp range for climate controls during remote start? Full blast AC even at 60*? I live in the Phoenix AZ area. For me 60* is getting a bit on the colder side. This is a great feature imo. It, along with the remote window down function are my saviors during the 100*+ months. The heat is nice for those 2-3 weeks we get into the 30's and 40's. But at 60* - 70* I would rather have no ac or heat. Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust the temp range for the climate system when using remote start?

Sounds like you need to take it in.

It doesn't have to be a pothole. Mine happens while going over a speed bump. Any moderate bump might do it.

This happens to me if I hit a large bump in the road while using the express up mode. Do you remember if you hit a bump or pothole in the road at the same time?

I am stuck using the factory HU as you are aware. I ordered a loopback harness from LLJCustoms to take get speaker level input to one of my amps and then take the newly amplified signal back to the doors. I had to run a separate set of wires to to dash since they are shared with the front doors by the factory wiring. They also make harnesses that do not loopback but will provide speaker level inputs to an amp or a line converter. The line converter option can be included in the loopback harness as well. The actual system is Stevens Audio tweeters in the dash locations, Hybrid Audio Legatia L6v1's in the front doors. The rear doors are not connected to the amp thus not playing. I have an Audio Control D6.1200 6ch amp for the fronts and DSP duty for the whole system. The D6.1200 also feeds the signal from the loopback harness to the sub amp which is an Audio Control LC1.1500. This amp is powering two Sundown SD-4 12" subs in a downfiring box under the rear seat. Origionally the 6 ch was powering the subs as well as the fronts. It just did not provide enough juice to get the subs to play well. So now I have an extra 2 channels. I may in the future go 3 way front by putting my Hybrid Audio Legatia L2se's back into the dash locations and then put the tweets in the pillars.

Remove the door panels and pull the speakers to see the wire colors. This pic is the left dash speaker. You can see the colors. I don't know if either has a stripe though. That was a while ago. Looks like there could be a blue strip on the orange wire. BTW the dash speakers share the same signal as their corresponding front door counterparts.

This may or may not be the exact lift that the OP is wanting. But it is an example of what they are wanting. 4" Coilover Lift Kit | Gas | 2019-2021 Chevy / GMC 1/2 Ton Truck 4WD Trail Boss / AT4 | 1805F | BDS Suspension (bds-suspension.com) It adds 4" to the AT4/Trail Boss to give a 6" overall lift. Frame cutting is required to do this lift. It could very well share many parts with the standard Sierra and Silverado or even be the same lift though. These guys do make versions that use spacers for the struts in which a shorter spacer would be required for the at4 and Trail Boss. But knuckles and most other parts are likely the same.

Are they making contact with the tire during any part of driving? If not then there is no issue.

Yes those are the only locations. 6 speakers in total. No tweeters at all. There are 6.5's in the rear doors, 6x9's in the front doors and 2.75" speakers in the dash. The dash speakers and the front door speakers share the same channels. There are plenty of options for the doors including adapters to mount 6.5's in the front doors. There are also harness adapters for the door speakers locations. I did not find adapters for the dash speakers but that became moot anyway once I amplified each speaker separately which required running wires to the dash. There are also very few speakers that will directly fit in the dash locations. Morel, Audiofrog, Kenwood and possibly Infinity that I am aware of. There could be more options. If you go with actual tweeters then a adapter plate or bracket will be necessary. This is the dash speaker and it's opening. This is the opening with the piller trim reinstalled. If you are willing to cut the dash you can fit larger speakers but as it sits there is only 3.2" of room in there.