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Probably 50-75 percent. "Gizmos" and technology aren't the problem. I'm kinda tired of that complaint by people who don't build things. Planned obsolescence and excessive EPA standards are. Couple that with a complete lack of management, and this is the result. Toyota is no saint, but at least they recalled all of their vehicles under the covered range for engine replacements. It's what gm *should do*, but they would rather pay lawyers to fight it instead of acknowledging a short coming and do what's right for the long term success of the company. I can say, their handling of my situation has permanently turned me off of the brand.

I'm personally leaning toward option one with a twist. I have had 2 sets of lifter failures in 50k miles, it idles rough now. It also runs rough (even compared to the last loaner I had). I have also had an objective 3rd party that has noticed how it runs now, so it's not just me. At this point, instead of directly giving GM more money, I have the intention of just getting a new L87 from Texas speed or similar that has been deleted and going that route. Honestly, GM "extended" my warranty, but it is irrelevant since the techs at multiple dealers won't bother to try and diagnose something that doesn't have an active code. Heck, even with a code, they claimed it was "fine" at one of the dealers. soooo.... They are glorified parts changers anymore. 3 isn't a good option because I don't trust Chrysler quality. Ford leads in recalls now. Toyota is replacing all the motors (at least they are well enough ran to actually acknowledge the issue, unlike GM that just plays the "let's pay the lawyers to handle it", game). So what brand is there to go to if you want something actually reliable? If I were considering another brand, it would probably be Toyota, but yeah. See the above comment. The only other option I have considered is trading for a 3.0 and doing a delete. If they didn't come with def, I would have going that route to start.

Can you not go back on the seller? Regardless, if you were keeping, I would buy a crate and delete based on my experience so far. I can't speak for others, but I'm considering it and I'm still under warranty after 2 failures.

So I have always changed my oil (all at the dealer until 25k miles) every ~5-6k miles. (really only the first one I did at 6k because I was driving 1200 miles a week and didn't get to the dealer that one weekend I was at home) I had an issue. Multiple now. Is it the oil? Do I need to be doing this at 3k with 0-30? 5-30 full syn? At this point, I just want to stay running. I don't want a global B truck, I don't like super cruise because it's too limited. So what do I change to keep this thing running. I'm not arguing, I'm not an oil expert. I don't know. I want to keep my truck and keep it on the road and that's proving to be a challenge *for me*. I would be shocked if anyone classified my driving as severe service. I think I put 6k miles on it last year with 90% being hwy miles and the other being 60 miles r/t to the airport and back every week. I'm open to answers/solutions.

You should be able to go into network settings on your phone and allow it to connect to cellular and wifi at the same time. Or, you can turn off wireless android auto under developer settings *in* android auto. No, android auto doesn't just use bluetooth.

Gangly, sorry for bumping an old thread, do you use the obdlink app or something else?

Define, mister "knows everything". I have changed my oil every 5-5500 miles since new, had the first set fail at 28k and now the second set at 46k. The truck is babied. It has towed once it it's entire life. I'm kind of sick of people claiming it's "abuse" that is causing this. It's not. It's hilarious you are the same tool posting on every GM authority article with the same BS. Unlike you, I can post the receipts.

Yet GM refused to do this for mine, and the motor sounds like garbage after getting it back, vibrates at idle and has intermittent misses. But I'm told by GM "they don't notice anything wrong".

Did you order a harness for 20 truck or did you just wire it yourself.

I get misfires most anytime I roll onto the gas. It is the "history" but it only keeps misfires for about 10-15 seconds. It will give me this "shudder", for lack of a better word, sometimes randomly, and sometimes when I roll on the gas. The attached video is steady state throttle and "shuddering". Again, probably not the right word. It never did this before the first failure. It started after the first failure, it is worse now after the second. When it starts this I can usually see it pulling timing. I have a video of that too, coupled with total misfires increasing. I only started watch misfires after it would give me the shudder experience and I wanted physical proof to take to the dealer when I go back the next time. I'm just getting fed up with them claiming "it's fine" when none of this happened before the first failure. I don't the P0300 currently. I did get the P0300 a couple of times after the first repair and the dealer claimed it was "fine" and they couldn't find anything "wrong". Since the second repair I have just had the "shudder", or whatever you want to call it, and the misfire counts (with knock retarding).

I still like the truck other than the very clear defect. Am I really asking too much after 2 lifter failures (one of which could have been prevented if they had just replaced all 16 as I asked during the first failure, which was still "failing" after I got it back from the dealer the first time. Complete with the P0300 code which they claimed was "fine") for a 100k warranty given I'm still having issues? I'm not imagining the misfires. I mean maybe I do that, it just isn't my first choice.

I'm bumping this because I just had my second bank of lifters fail after GM refused to replace all 16 to start with at 28k. I'm now at 48k (all 16 replaced at 47k and the damaged cam). Now, I'm having non-constant/random misfires on all cylinders. Usually it seems to occur on the disengagement of the DFM. When they replaced the first bank of lifters it still did this but it's way worse than even that was. I usually change my oil between 5-6k. At this point, do I trust that metal didn't go through the engine with the damaged cam? It definitely isn't the same and GM is being a complete PITA about the whole deal. Hemming and hawing that "It's outside of the factory B-to-B and it should be fixed". They refuse to give me a 100k powertrain warranty and that severely pisses me off about this whole situation. Any advice at this point would be appreciated it. It also has a weird timing pullback (I think) where it just seems to lose power. I'm really at my wits end and this GM rep I'm dealing with makes me want to jump out of a window.

The easiest way to hold them accountable is to stop buying from them. Hyundai or GM. I know given the refusal to replace the entire set of lifters on my first failure, and no subsequent failure, this will be my first and last GM product. I have never dealt with such incompetence when it comes to repair and doing things right the first time.

Ok, understanding might not have been the best word choice. But generalizing is incorrect. How things were in 73, isn't how things are now. Will they return to that, I have no idea. As of the current state of things, they aren't. Compound interest is relative to what the opportunity cost is. If one can make more off of that capital than they pay in interest, it is more prudent to carry the interest and bank the difference. This is how 90% of real estate magnates operate. I guess they couldn't afford a "72 month loan" either.

Sure, a portion of the longer term loans are going belly-up. I think default rates on those are like 5% right now. I'm not saying 95% of those with "loans" can "afford" them, but I take offense to the claim that "taking a longer term loan" means "you can't afford it". Again, I did the math and it made sense to take it. Does everyone, no. But I don't like generalizations because they are usually wrong.