ChrisNJ

Mine stayed on once way passed the 30seconds there supposed to stay on. So I just cycled again manually and they turned off. Probably a stuck relay, and why I wish GM would just come out with a headlight fix for these horrible oem headlights, or a good aftermarket setup comes avail.

Red wire is up, blue is down.

Kasey, I got the 9012's and I believe they can be installed in various positions, and yes, mine do not look like your picture at all. Try moving them, drivers side is easy to test. If your careful, you can see the how they should go in. My cutoff line is pretty crisp. I do have some dark spots towards going towards the outside, but they are minor.

Can you elaborate on what exact wires need to be reversed? I've had my Mirimoto kit in for a few months, and sometimes the relays buzz and sometimes they don't. But I would like to try reversing what you did to see what happens. Thank you.

FYI, I have the morimoto kit and one of the lights went out last night during truck start. I went on my trip and was pleasantly surprised that even just one light is adequate to see OK. While I was waiting, I had the truck on and just turned the lights off. When I turned them back on, both came on, so it must have just been a little start glitch.

Payton, I would be interested in how the Hella's install in your GMC. If they end up helping during low beam operation, then I could adjust my oem projectors (with HID's) during high beam down to acceptable levels, and let the Hella's handle low beam. Thanks

Here's what I see on my packing slip: 1-HD relay: 9012 1-Capacitor link 2-AMP: Morimoto 3Five DSP 2-9012: 3Five 4300K So I think you've got it right. I don't know where it is, but I wrote up my installation and results experience on prior posts. Mines been working well for 1-2 months now, and while they solved the brightness issues, the stock projectors will not allow alignment as you would expect. Even my son (15) said last night 'Dad, your high beams are pointing way to high' "yeah, I know"

Just a little update. I have 35w Morimoto kit in a Sierra, install went pretty good, light output is good, just disappointed in the stock-projector aiming issues. So I played with up-down on high, and lowered the 10degree up to about 5 degrees up, and on low they still are OK, so while I still would like to bring down the highs even more, and get great downrange performance, I can't because then the lows would be way too low. So all is OK, I'm keeping them in, because they still blow away the stockers in output, but I will wait to do anything else to see if anyone comes out with a projector kit, or I can find someone local to do one at a time for me. And I haven't had any flicker/etc... issues. If I get some free time over the summer, I may attempt to take a good look at the projector itself, to see if I could somehow mod the shutter height on low (to close higher), then I could aim the highs perfect AND get the lows up a little.

I've read the whole thing and only see a Sierra projector swap by a professional, which I am not. If any Sierra owner has done a successful projector swap without taking the whole light assembly apart, would love hear your story. thanks.

I have the morimoto kit and am happy with it's light output, and it was pretty easy to install, and I can put the left stock bulb, if needed, back in seconds. I am trying to get the aim correct now and will advise as I play with it. If I can get the high aim down a bit and I'm OK with where the lows end up then I would call this install a success. Do the HD relays buzz a lot? As I was playing with the aim I noticed a buzz and it was the HD realys. Is this normal?

wish I could figure out how to add a picture to the post.

Thanks David, so if I adjust the projector down to get the highs down 10+/- degrees, the lows will lower the same amount too? If true, darn cause the lows are about right. maybe I'll sacrifice the low-aim being a little low to get the highs down a little? Now, these lights w/HIDs would finally be fixed pretty well for me , if I could lower the highs 10degrees, then raise the shutter on low a bit............................ wishfull thinking. Anyone have these projectors apart yet? Based on the pictures I took through the back hole they appear to be plastic welded in place.

Mike, how do you adjust the angle? I don't see how as the low and high output are only controlled by a shutter, and correct me if I'm wrong but the only adjustment is for the shutter height while on low beam. The projector angle itself appears to be non adjustable. Thanks

Unlike Bass Mechanic, I'm leaving mine in. Yes, they have some spots, but mine are only two less than perfect darker spots pointing down and out, so not a big deal to me. On lows, the light output is much better than stock, maybe 2-3x better. On highs same, however, the main beam pointing to the sky at 10-20degrees is troubling, but they still offer better light downrange than the stockers. I just have to try hard to ignore the beams lighting up the trees bobbing up and down, hard to do. This high aim was apparent with the stockers too, they were just so dim it wasn't distracting. I will be calling my dealer soon to discuss and tell him I'm calling GM to complain. I have to do this because I'm sure they will ask if I went to the dealer first. I'm sure there are fixes if I give these to reputable light fixers, but I have no one local, and would have to ship them, and I see no logical way to keep my truck down for 7-10days without lights. I also asked TRS if they would come out with a kit to fix the whole projector and they said they don't have any complete headlights to figure it out, so I sent them pictures, and they replied that while they don't have any kits for just these lights, that their EvoX-R, G37 Sedan kit would be the closest, however I am in no position to cut and past them in myself. So I wait for GM to hopefully fix which I doubt (please complain to GM directly and/or through dealer), or wait for aftermarket, even if I have to buy the whole dam thing. Or the 15's+ will fix these and hopefully be bolt in. I will probably put 100w daylighters on the front soon to take care of the high problem, and the lows with HID's are currently OK (for me).

I just put in my Mopar Elite 35 9012 kit from TRS yesterday in my 14 GMC. Install: took me three hours, most of which was figuring out where to put the HDrelays. I laid it all out and the battery lead is only long enough to put the relays on the passenger side. Problem is the air cleaner box takes up all the room. So I ended up putting the relays just in front of the air box, it just fits, but unfortunately if I need to get at the relays again I will have to remove the box, maybe just the cover, not sure yet. Locating the ballasts was less of an issue but you have to pay attention to the lead length. Hook it all up first, lay it out best you can, and in the end it all worked ok, just with serviceability limitations. Install of the bulbs through the back covers was easy with a 1" hole bit. The bulb and wiring kit both come with a wire for hooking up to the oem harness, you will only need one of them, and it will have to be the passenger side again. Put the bulbs in exactly as their tabs are supposed to go stock, they are 9012 bulbs. So the air box area gets real busy, but I was able to make it work. Hooked up direct to batters. Left box out until I lit them up to see if I need to reverse the plug. They worked first time, looked good, but it was day. Results: drove around on low beam and they looked great, about 2x stock output, very pleased. Just a little darker hole pointing outside and down a little, no biggie, the rest is so much better, and the light output to the side of the road is now very good. Reminded me of my '11 GMC output, but these are a little better now. The bad: go high beam, not bad, about like my '11 again, and a little better. BUT, keep driving, and the dam lights are pointing 10-20degrees in the air. I'm lighting up the night or should I say the trees. and let me tell you these are really lighting up the night, like 100w Daylighters but pointed up. Now I remember the oem 9012's did this too, they were just so dim I really couldn't tell. So, are these oem projectors that bad? I don't think they can be adjusted, because if I could point them down, wow, I would have an amazing system. What the hell is going on? Did GM screw these up that bad, or is it on purpose for some light genie reason? I don't get it. Any way to point these things down? Now here's a little problem. Hey dealer, these lights are pointing up. 'ohhh but you modified them' No really, I'll put the 9012 oem bulb back in and show you. You get the drill. As they are now, at least I can see. I'm just concerned on high beam that I'm gonna call in some planes. And it's really distracting having amazing light up that high bobbing up and down the road on the trees. Really. is the shutter height adjustable on high too? would hate to give up the daylighters, but don't see any way right now.

I just tried the 9011's in my 14 SLT and they are a little brighter but no where near what I consider OK, nor no where near my old stock '11 GMC. So I ordered the Mopar Elite low 35w 9012 kit from TRS. Will take me 1-2 weeks to get it put in. Will let you all know the results.

Thanks David, I will make sure.

I have been talking to TRS, and they have been very helpful. For me, they suggested this for a complete package for my '14 SLT: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-mopar-low-beam.html#.U2Ori2dOVok

Thanks for doing all this guys. Just picked up a 14 SLT and as you all know already the lights are very bad compared to the very good '11 GMC I had. So I've read all the posts and am a little confused so here's my take. Get the Morimoto Elite 9012 35w, with 35w 4300k bulbs, and canbus 9012 harness? Is that all I'll need? Thanks again. Looks like $150 so not too bad considering I used to put Daylighters on all my trucks for 20yrs before the '11 which stock was pretty good. Kinda pisses you off that we spend close to 50K for these trucks and GM went backwards on the lights and a lot backwards.

I am a good customer to my dealer, and he took off my vibrating LS2's and put on Bridgestones on my '11 S. Denali at around 3K miles.

We may never know, hopefully in today's media age, GM will tell us, they should. Harmonics are very finicky, and change with different components, weights, structure, etc... I learned that the new hydraulic body mounts are a response to the frames getting so stiff, that a lot of us, 'feel', minor road variations, mostly at high speed. A fix? I don't know. Some have stated that their trucks ride like a 'caddy', which of course says something. I'm leaning toward component issues, but time will tell. I am in manufacturing, and I can tell you that new products can never be foolproof, never. Below a 5% failure rate is considered great for a new product. Different companies have different standards. So far it seems GM is standing up for most if not all issues, and remember that they have private dealers to go through too, which adds another layer, good and bad.

Harmonics are a very big deal today. Back 10+ years when the frames weren't as stiff, it wasn't as big an issue. Now that frames are getting stiffer and stiffer, as payloads and towing cap. keeps going up, harmonics are going to show up. I remember on the intro of the '07s an Engr. made a statement at the grand opening 'we paid a lot of attention to harmonics'. Since I deal with harmonics in my job, I thought that was cool, and went and bought an '07, and really liked it, except the first 6sp trans were really bad, even after 2-3 computer updates. Then I got an '11 and the trans issues were fixed, but it vibrates at highway speeds, and is intermittent, etc.... a lot like all the problems raised in this thread. Going to Bridgestones helped the most, and now it's manageable, but I am not buying a new truck till they figure this out, and somehow tell me/us, what they did to fix it. I know for a fact that there is still something wrong with my '11, but it will never get fixed now. The new issue could be many things, and I hope they figure it out ASAP. If it is harmonics, it can be fixed, sometimes really easy, sometimes not. If it's balancing of components, that's easy by QC control with vendors, etc..., but then GM has to do some damage control and fast. At least it sounds like they are trying, just probably not fast enough for the majority of us.