Kerry Pulaski

My first attempt quick location mount spot, to get using it.

My '24 HD Duramax with ScanGauge III, does not seem to respond to the trans gear. I have it selected in a watch window. Will keep working on it. There are over a hundred sensors to choose, and some custom ones to download. I will contact the mfg. to ask on this Gm Allison. However, I think it's Awesome otherwise !! Digital Real Time volts, Engine & trans temp, boot psi, torque, glow plug active, air inlet temp to intake.....AND DEF LEVEL !! My only complaint is the Cat-5 network cable goes into the center lower rear. Had to bend up an aluminum bracket I made, to allow some offset. Going to get a 90 deg. adapter from L-Com Inc. near Boston, to compact it better. Manual attached. Will add my mounting pic next. ScanGauge-3_User_Manual_1.2.pdf

Thanks for the tip.

'24 Gauges in my instrument cluster were a disappointment . A Bar Graph with a Min - Max ?? Really.... for a HD Duramax ?? I selected the max level display available and still not happy. Aftermarket the two first ones I found to add, were Banks, that mount on the "A" pillar, ans a 3 x 5" flat one from ScanGauge. I chose the latter as I did not want clutter on the "A" pillar. Pleased the ScanGauge mounts anywhere, and has an incredible amount of custom Data You can choose to display in real time and historical data accumulated. After reading issues with some Duramax Oil Pressure, Alt. 12v charging, I put these into the display for real time view. Also DEF Tank Level, Boost PSI, Engine and Trans Temp.......... Also acts as a Diagnostic Tool to read Fault Codes. Simple install plug in to Diag. Port.

Did not know the #NHT Max Trailer option on the 3500 was that limited to a 2wd. Reg. cab and dually ..... I got this option om my '24 2500HD Duramax. As it includes The 3500 Leaf Spring pak with overloads, 3500HD 12" axel, 7 way plug in the bed, and the frame 5th. wheel & Goose Pin set up. (With these overload springs, I no longer need to add the Firestone air bags, like I did on my '16 2500HD, for my application). Seems like you would have to build up a 3500HD 4wd. and / or Crew, with these options separately, for the bed 5th./ Goose pin frame . That listed alone is #Z6A. Did not show a price on my build sheet, as it's is part of the NHT Pkg. "Trailering Package" option I also saw is # Z82 on my build sheet. Did not list it's contents or price, as it was included in the NHT Pkg. 7 Way in Bed connector option is # UY2, $35 factory installed. Worth every penny. Hope this helps.

My '24 2500HD is almost at 3k mi. In considering the first oil change, to do now before the snow hits. Is this too soon to jump the gun after break-in miles ? The GM filter listed is # 12707246 (AC Delco # PF63). In research, I found that this is a Paper Element filter. WIX offers two......Std. GM equal or perhaps better, WIX # 10255, says Element is "Enhanced Cellulose". Fancy Paper ?? The WIX-XP listed as best for Synthetic oil, is WIX # 10255XP, and features a Synthetic Element. All Listed Particulate Capture Value of 21 Microns. I am leaning towards the WIX-XP. I always added Lucas Oil Stabilizer in all my vehicles, every oil change. BTW: Read the posts on the New GM "Allison" 10 speed, NOT having a Spin-On Filter and Pan Drain.....JEEEZZZEEE !!!! My '16 2500HD Allison had them. I get this as forcing more Dealer Service, by DIY maint. more a PIA. When this fluid change is due, as "64BAWagon" posted, weld on a drain plug into the pan. Have a MIG & TIG welder in my shop. Could use a regular O2 Sensor "Bung" fitting to weld in, but that would need Teflon Paste (not tape) on the plug threads. Teflon Tape fragments will cause problems. Will search the Hot Rod & Truck sites, for perhaps a better purpose built drain product. FYI: Just saw a Deep Cast, Finned, Alum. pan for the 10L1000. Pacific Diesel Prod. Adds 4 more qt's., Stainless drain & level check ports, Plugs with Magnets. Top shelf product for severe tow applications, to justify $375 to $400.

Have you contacted Progress Mfg. directly (Equilizer Products) ? Send them pix of your fit-up clearance issue. I have an Equilizer as well. The shank is solid steel. Do not know the grade however, or if heat treated. May also give e-trailer.com a look. Last resort may be to have a weld shop fab a new plate to move jack further rearward , away from the ball if room. To bolt on the Tounge, not weld on.

My '24 2500 HD Duramax, Std. box, I ordered the "Max Trailering Pkg". Includes the 3500 HD rear spring pack with overloads, 12" 3500 Axle, Rancho shocks, 7 way in the box, 5th wheel frame cross-member & bed plugs. Front HD Camper Torsion bars were $55. Rides very smooth overall. Added a rear "Roadmaster" brand 1.50" dia. anti-sway bar. A must for a slide in camper or towing. Should be a GM option. If you get a 3500 dually cab & chassis (box delete) it comes with one !

Than what does trigger the tailgate lockout ? Rear camera view?

Forgot to mention......The pic of the Left Fuse Panel, shows my white stiff "fish" wire in the "A" Pillar, able to get into the kick panel, and routed 12 vdc., into the door, for a LED under the door card pocket bottom. To light up the running boards. Did a "Star cut with an "X-Axto Knife",", in the rubber grommet, to feed the braid wire conduit thru it into "A" Pillar. One mini Zip Ty thru door check arm hole, seems to hold the conduit OK. Goes into the door shell, on the lower outside of the check arm, was able to snake thru.

Two more 12 vdc. Power Pix.

My new '24 HD, sadly has no cigar 12 vdc. outlets. The USB's available I found were Slow Charging. Not to mention the terrible interior lack of lighting. Thanks to 64BAwagon and Don's Life posts & solutions on that Cabin Lighting. Credit to Don's Life on the Micro-3 Fuse Tap Pic. Here is what I did for adding power outlets. Found there IS a Fuse Panel on Driver's side dash, not so populated, as the right dash one. Guy's, the GM schematics are PDF down-loadable on the GM Upfitters site. Dual inside the arm rest, ( can still use phone charger), and dual on lower rear of this center console by rear floor (under HVAC vents). Will add 2 more pix next, at max file size here.

Got to max file size on last pix. Don's Life You Tube on Interior Lighting, showed his discovery, on how a Micro3 Blade fuse and Tap works. He has so many GM Truck excellent video posts on improvement to these trucks. One most important one, is the Factory Upfitter Switch Kit, (9L7), still not available for the '24 AT4x and Denali. This to neatly add more powered owner options, like lighting, air compressor, Plow Lights, etc. Research we all have done, installing this factory 9L7 kit, and connecting accessories is a real xxxx-xx-******-****** !! All wiring must penetrate the firewall. Don's Life reviewed the Aux-Panel Kit. Locates in the engine bay. Everything connects there. My next to add. See you are in VT. I just Woolwax Rust-Proofed my '24. Removed the wheel well liners first. Got the rocker panels and door cavities as well. Other inert non-chemical Lanolin wax rustproof products out there as well. Did my '16 HD with Ziebart. Never again. Process does not weep into seams. Screen pic attached, on right are a few of Don's other You Tube how to videos.

You may find it easier and neater , to put the Lighter Outlet(s), under the center arm rest, in back of the phone charger pad. I also put a dual outlet on the face of this console rear, for charging tools , etc. on my '24 HD. Saw a post before, the the '24's only have fuse panel on the right dash. NOT true. Wish I looked further. Here is a easy access, less populated one with spare spots in driver's left knee bolster. Dash right side fuse panel is a populated mess. Also Cabin lighting SUCKS. See many posts by 64BAwagon, myself and Don's Life You Tube, for solutions. 64BAwagon did a great documentation, using a part(wire & connector pin) of the door sill plate Illumination kit, to tap into the X1 BCM plug, above driver's left foot next to firewall. Before I saw his post, I did it the extreme hard way, Designed my own relay logic, tapped off the dome lamp feed, with protection,so not to damage the BCM Computer circuit. GM really blew it on these missing features, as much as I love this new '24 Denali HD otherwise.

I've heard, if ball is still in receiver, $$ damage can still happen.

Question on Inner Tailgate lockout. Is this based only on a 7 or 4 way harness being plugged in to sense ?

Great info guys. Adding a camera to my trailer soon with my '24 Denali HD. With these suppliers, has anyone found a FAKRA Male & Female "Storage Plug", to put on the Coax Cable ends when "Not In Use", to keep out the elements ? The bumper / bed receptacles have spring loaded doors and a gasket. Free hanging Coax & plug off the trailer camera, needs protection sitting idle.

Thanks very much for this link to the Banks site. They are really on top of the '24 HD release. I looked at the available data monitor capability of the iDash, and also data capture of the optional SD card if you want. Amazing !! One '24 GMC HD Denali Ult. owner just posted a pic of his A-Pillar gauge installed. Looks great !! Said only regret was not getting the Dual Pod A-Pillar gauge mount kit......I agree. That is the way I'm going, with the available data to see and choose, two displays are the way to go. Very disappointed with the new digital dash display critical engine & electrical values to monitor in my '24 HD. Min/Max Bar Graph with no numeric value overlay ? Really ????? What are Gm Eng's. thinking. Same with my posts on lack of cabin lighting. Again xxxx'd me off last night, trying to see my running boards getting out. Almost done adding those LED's. Like the phone & home app for my Xfinity home alarm, had a device battery voltage condition numeric value display for all sensors. New software update..........., now only shows "Good & "Replace". ??? I asked a Xfininty Tech why ?? Said "too confusing" for most home owners. This World is trying to Dumb Us All Down. I say "Can't Fix Stupid", but let us with some I.Q. HAVE a choice.

Door existing rubber wire boot I was able to pull out each end out of the sheetmetal, to explore possible snaking of power wires for adding a LED to the door bottom trim. Door end is a straight shot in with the wire harness with no obstructions. "A" Pillar side more complex and tight, but possible. Long vertical fixed connector, but some space above it to feed wire thru. Need to get my Milwaukee LCD cavity camera to poke in there tomorrow when the rain stops, to see if it goes thru the 2 or 3 layers of sheetmetal, to exit into where the BCM module resides. ( where the X-1 connector is for adding the LED Sill Plate kit). Let Ya'll know. FYI: Did find some great wiring web sites , "keepitcleanwiring.com", has several types of door loom kits, and Ron Francis Wire Works ( has really cool Heat Shrink Tube in a Woven Material, 1/2, 3/4, 1" I.D. ) that would match up to Dorman Builder Series split woven wire loom.

Door LED wiring.....Ideas......... I do have some 1/4" o.d. split wire loom left, would be an option, although not my best choice. Quick search on Sumitt and Jeg's, found some very nice specific door jamb wire loom kits, like for adding power windows, locks, speaker etc. One is GM A body door jamb specific, may be too short. These will require a right angle drill or Dremel type adaptor, to put a hole in the door by the check arm. Search of some Street Rod site would have kit like these as well. Want to keep it OEM looking best as possible. I'm not a hacker. KP.

Matt / All: Able to re-size this pic down to 1.3mb. My KC Cyclone puck "Rock Lights". do clear the sill plate mounted to the door bottom trim, if screwed thru it's center hole into the door card plastic, under the front cup holder pocket. It will hit if Velcro is used, as I found with this first test, just to hold in place, and get this pic. I plan to route the two wire #18ga. with a split rib 1/4" wire loom conduit, up past the speakers, thru the door check arm opening, and into the lower A Pillar rubber grommet plug. Using the RGB LED's you have, should have no issue driving them off the Sill Plate LED X-1 Pin-1 circuit. With LED's like the KC's I have, must use that X-1 circuit, with a 300mfd. Cap, diode and 220 OHM resistor, to drive a mini Amphenol 5vdc relay for a strong 12 vdc. & added 5 amp piggyback fuse off the fuse box. Will not get the full Light theater fade on/off of the Dome/Map lights, but at least it is controlled by the doors automatically. I "T" Tapped into the Dome/map White/Green wire, in the front roof pod, which is the same Interior Lamp Control like the X-1_Pin-1. This in the White connector to the right of the Grey Sunroof plug, and far right black plug. What an ordeal of R&D.

I posted this in a few areas. The GM frames are dipped in the black wax, on bare un-cleaned , oily steel, from the stamping process. As the steel was not cleaned before dipping in wax, it will not adhere well. Over time starts peeling off. Even my new 2013 3599HD and 2016 2500HD, the wax that was peeling off, stuck to my fingers and under fingernails. Hard to get off, still sticky as heck. Wax GM uses is not the problem, it's the lack of metal surface prep to help it stick. GM and other mfg's. state the extensive sheetmetal paint process, requires "No Further Preventative Measures". So the Marketing Says. Horse Pies. I see every brand of truck in the North East with extensive sheepmetal corrosion, as Salt, Calcium Cloride is used on the roads. Any lanolin based rust proof product is cheap insurance. Spray the heck out of your vehicles. FYI: Woolwax just released a new Lanolin product called "Creep & Crawl". Just tried it on my NOS '61-'71 Dodge rocker panel, still on the shelf. Put a little in the bottom spot weld pinch seam area, After a day, it was migrating upward, against gravity. Going to use it on all my vintage vehicles after seeing this. KP.

Now on my 4th. GMC. First new 2013 3500HD, saw the frame wax coating peeling off after a year. Saw another '13 at my dealer, bed removed, and cab on two post lift high in the air. Asked Bill the service manager as this was also a Duramax, what's up with that truck ?? Said re-coating the frame. What ?? Thats when I got under mine and saw the black wax, still very sticky, peeling off in sheets. Asked is this a recall ?? Bill said a "silent one". GM will pay for, ONLY if the owner complains !!!! Woolwax ( same company as Fluid Film ) told me, this is still an ongoing GM truck problem. The frames are wax dipped as raw oily steel, and the wax will not stick. Frames should be chemically dipped first in an oil cleansing bath, that phosphate metal etch preps the steel, Before the wax dip, so it will adhere. I just Woolwaxed my '24, all sheetmetal , wheel wells with liners removed, rockers, and door cavities. Woolwax says wait two years for the GM frame wax to peel, then use their process on the frame areas then. It will not mess up the Gm fame wax chemically, as it is pure Lanolin, but just a waste of product and $$ on top of the GM frame wax , to do to early, only to peel off with the GM wax. As I understand it, the Lanolin based products, will creep into seams, is chemically inert to not cause paint damage or to wiring.

Matt, yes a real PIA to do what should have been a standard lighting feature. I just tested adding another KC Cyclone LED under the door panel bottom pocket. Lights up the running board and ground below very well. Wires will have to go from door check arm opening, to the A pillar lower rubber hole plug, thru a Dorman type 1/4" plastic flex rib wire conduit.. Found a You Tube video on how to pull the door panel card off safely. File size of this pic may not make the cut. My choice of the Kc's, found they need at least 7.5 vdc. to light up, although dim. On 12 v. they rock ! So I needed to design the relay to power the coil off the Dome / Map PWM circuit. Added a Little Fuse piggyback tap in the passenger fuse box, for the solid 12v. Using the strip LED's like you did, work great off the existing 5.6 vdc. PWM interior circuit. Much less complicated, than what I got myself into with the KC's. Booo, would not me load the pic with both LED's, was 5.1 mb., so this will have to do. Take my word, the door under panel LED under the bottle holder area, is the cherry on top of this project. This under dash LED gets some ground lit, but not the running boards at all.

Matt ; Is that X-1 Pin-1 circuit 12 vdc. ? Another post from SC in Michigan, said he did run LED's off X-1- Pin-1 without a relay. I tapped into the Dome /Map feed wire , and it is a Transistor controlled PWM (pulse Width Modulated) circuit. Off that one, I measured 5.6 vdc to chassis gnd. Driving a 5 vdc relay, the coil buzzed from the "chopped" DC voltage. Added a 300 mfd. tantalum capacititor to smooth out the ripple / buzz, and 5 watt diode to prevent damage to the BCM circuit. I'm using 4 ea. KC Cyclone LED pucks, they draw .4 amps each. Another post to you on page 3 said also on X-1 pin 23 , circuit 157 , for Interior Lamp Control also works to tap into. GM should be ashamed, never mind the end , high $$ trucks should have interior liting like this , but the Pro and WT as well, should be standard. I went through a lot of Time, Sweat, Posts and George Carlin words to sort this out.