ABQ-Jammer

I'm told that the bolt pattern is slightly different from 2011 and newer, but up to 2010 should fit. Prior to 2011, the bolt pattern was 8x165, and newer is 8x180. As long as you know what year the vehicle those came off fits with yours, you should be fine. I like the look of that AT4 wheels. Where did you find them? I would like to switch from the wide 17x11s I have on my truck now to closer to stock. I'm pretty sure I can run 285/70-17s on my current rims, but I'd like to go smaller, so it's easier for my wife to get up into the truck. She's only 5'5" tall, so the 6" lift plus body lift of unknown height is a bit much for her.

At least you GOT a jack with your truck. The used one I got was lifted, and didn't even have a jack in it, though it had the rods to use with it. One of those things you don't think to check for when you're buying a used truck, but you SHOULD! I had to buy a big one, so looked around, and found a 48" on eBay, brand new, for only $65, which I thought was a steal, since I saw them anywhere from $80-300, and the stock jacks were going for at least $50 anyway! Haven't gotten to try it yet, and hope I don't have to. That sucker is HEAVY!!! It probably weighs like 25-50 POUNDS!!! I spent an extra $11 and got a stand to set the jack on for when your out in the boonies, too. You may think about getting both, too.

There is a sequence for the remote start. You push the lock button twice, and when it beeps, then push the start button on the remote and hold it until it starts. At least, that's the way my '08 Sierra 2500HD works. When you first push the start after hitting the lock twice, you should hear the pump prime and the glow plugs start if you have a diesel. You might also check your VIN to make sure that it should have remote start at all. Check inside the driver's door or in the glovebox for the VIN codes.

Not exactly "helpful", but I understand it's an older truck, and things eventually do wear out, though "electronics" are not usually one of those. I'm comfortable doing "minor" things, but leave drivetrain and mechanical power issues to the professionals. I've had too many times when I thought I could handle an "electronic gremlin" issue, and only ended up making things worse, and don't want to make that mistake again. Do you have any "constructive" suggestions on what I should check or look at?

PO of the truck had it in a VERY sandy/dusty environment, so maybe something got in the switch. I'll check. Thanks for the suggestion of the wiring connector between body and door. I'll take a look at that as well. I also need to check behind the inside door panel for the rod that connects the lock with the mechanism, so I'll look around in there for this, also.

I have the same issue on my '08 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab, but mine the LEDs work fine, except for in the middle of the panel, where it shows the temps for dual controls, and what the fan speed is at. All the buttons at top and bottom work fine, and the controls for fan and temp work fine, but I have no way of knowing what the temp is set to, other than to "feel" whether it's hot or cold. I was told I need to replace the control module. I found some on eBay, ranging in price from as low as $40 for "used", which may or may not fail soon after I install it, up to $300 for a "new" unit, which still has a "limited" warranty, probably not longer than a year or less. You can take your chances, as others have, and replace the unit yourself. Usually, there are either 3 or 4 connectors on the back, with a part #, which determines which module you need. You just have to make sure that the module you're getting has the same part #. Most of the ones I found were going for about $80 for mine. Your model may vary.

Yesterday, after being on vacation and out of town for a week, was on the way home, and stopped for takeout, and the driver's window wouldn't go down. So, I pushed the door button again, and after a few tries, it finally came down. Then, it didn't want to go up, until after a few more tries. I'm hoping this is not an indication of some expensive fix to be needed soon. I had to have the door lock actuators replaced as soon as I bought it, so hoping that won't be needed for the windows, too. Those were kinda pricey! Anyone else seen this, and what did you do to fix it?

I originally thought the 4 wire connector would have it, but it doesn't, so I just connected to the power and ground on that connector, and tapped directly into the taillight wire for the "trigger", but it's not working. Let me see if I can find the listing for the camera. Here it is: https://www.ebay.com/itm/304604059127?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=qrg6lcdtsky&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=t0K5rCObQyK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yeah, I was going to use LEDs, and ordered some 880 types to fit the housing, with that adapter, though I think I got the wrong adapter, as the connector on it isn't the same as the 880 type, but looks like a 9006/HB3 style, even though the pictures of the adapters showed the 880 connectors on it, so I already contacted the seller, and he's refunding my money, but I don't know if the 880 bulbs will fit this adapter. I sure hope so. If not, I may be trying to "modify" these adapters by cutting to deepen the notch between the posts so that the post in the middle of the 880 bulbs will fit. Yeah, it's taking me some extra time, but I have the time to work on it, more than I have the cash to spend on other stuff.

I got a cheap backup camera from eBay, which only came with 3 wires; power, ground, and to hook into the reverse circuit. I used a 4-pin trailer connector to tie into the power and ground, and used a splice to attach to the green wire for the reverse bulb in the driver's side taillight, but the camera still isn't working. The camera is supposed to work with my cell phone, and I have the app installed, but it's not seeing the camera. Did I tap into the wrong wire? I thought the green or light green was the power for the reverse bulb, though there are 3 wires going to it, and the other two look black. I would really like to get this working, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

My '08 has the slide locks. The odd thing, for me, is that the key would NOT open the door, either. I'm going to try spraying inside the lock with WD-40, and see if that makes a difference, but if not, I'll have to take off the door panel to make sure the rod is attached. Just seems weird that the fobs work fine, when the batteries are full. Is there a different connection to the lock than the fob actuators use?

For future reference, if your battery is dead, and your fobs won't work, you can connect another battery or jump start box to the starter to get enough juice to use the fobs to open/unlock the doors. Don't ask me how I know...

I've used PlastiDip, but only on the dash of my bike, and no issues, though I haven't used a powerwash on it. The only issue I had was where the bolts went through. As I tightened the bolts, they pulled the PlastiDip off around where the bolt goes through, and I had a small spot that developed a bubble that tore a small spot in it, as well. I could just spray over it, but just haven't done it. I mostly sprayed it on to block the reflective glare I got every time I turned a corner near my house, when the sun would glance off the chrome. That has been resolved with the PlastiDip! And, I like the fact that if I WANT to go back to the chrome, like if I were to sell the bike, I could just peel it back off, and nobody would be the wiser, since no "scuffing" of the chrome was required. Looks like the PO of my truck didn't use it, though. Seems like he just used flat black paint, but it seems to be peeling back off where I want to expose some of the chrome on some emblems, so maybe he did. It takes a bit more effort to get it off, though, so I think it's just paint. There are some spots that are thin or missing paint, so I may just PlastiDip them again to cover that up.

I guess it's more common than you thought @CamGTP, since I found some on eBay, ranging in price from $4-20. I ordered this $4 pair (https://www.ebay.com/itm/185480034928). They're about a foot of wiring with a 5202 connector on one end, and a 880/9006/HB3 connector on the other end. I verified that the connectors are the same as what I need from the photos above. I should get them this week, so hopefully they'll work for what I need. Now, I just need to get another 880 bulb, since the one that came with one of the housings broke. Thankfully, the seller already refunded my money for them, so I have that cash to use to buy them. I had considered just drilling out the opening in the back of the housings so that the 5202 bulbs would fit through, but I wouldn't be able to lock them in place, so decided not to do that.

I picked up some cheap fog lights on eBay, since one of mine was missing, and they fit perfectly in the spots, but the bulbs in them are 880 instead of like the wiring having, I think, 5202 connectors, so I can't get them connected. The seller refunded my money already, since one of the bulbs was broken, and I mentioned that they don't fit the wiring, and the seller didn't want them returned, so I still have the fog lights. I'm just wondering if anyone has used an adapter or cable to convert from the 5202 connector in the wiring to the 880 connector on the bulbs? If so, where did you get the adapter/wiring, and how much was it? I'm not looking to spend a lot on this. I found some that I think will work on eBay for about $8-10. Does that sound like a good deal? I'm just not 100% certain that they will fit with the supposed 5202 wiring and still connect to the 880 bulbs, and I don't want to throw more money at this for something that may not work. Here's pics of the wiring and the fog light housings and bulbs. The first is the connector on the 880 bulb, the 2nd is the 5202 connector, the 3rd is the original fog light housing, and the 4th is showing how the stock bulb won't fit in the new fog light housing.