matt99199

Nope, the X1 pin1 is also a PWM'd transistor output, the same as the dome/map line. I would imagine all lighting controlled circuits are PWM from the BCM since everything is LED and dimmed digitally now a days. Your solution of using a cap and diode should work great but yeah it sucks it's not so easy to tap into. Although at 0.4A each I would image they would have worked directly off of X1 pin1 without a relay.

I drilled some small holes in the plastic trim on the right side for the passenger. Part 2

Tried to circle in red the mounting points and how I did it. The driver side is kind of free ballin' across the gap but it hasn't been an issue. That strip also has a 3d print with a switch to 12V for manual on/off. The blue circle is the panel I took off and stuffed the controller. Part 1 due to upload size. Order is: driver, driver, rear, rear in pictures.

Hi all, Didn't know if this was common knowledge or not but I found out that I could change the "hot bar" applications that are always available on the left side of the screen. You can change out the applications like on any Android device with a press hold and drag. One pain point for me with the 2022 Refresh Sierra compared to the Tundra I almost bought was that the Sierra did not have a hard button or fast/easy way to bring up the surround view cameras. Now with a simple drag and replacement of the stock phone app location on my hot bar. A simple touch is enough to bring up the view when parking no matter what application is running. Most probably know you can change the order of the applications on this home screen the same way but the customization of the left side bar is very helpful for me.

Made it custom. I kind of took it to an extreme... I bought a known good company LED strip, wasn't happy with the LED current vs voltage performance (vehicle load dump voltages would have destroyed the LEDs over time), changed out all the SMD resistors to values I calculated, cut them to length along with some tick ABS plastic strips and mounted everything with zip ties. Also sprayed the strips with conformal coating to waterproof them. Then also hacked an existing RGB controller and added my own connectors that latch, did some other tweaks internally, etc. Kind of went overboard but they probably make kits that fit well enough. I could take pictures underneath if interested to show where and how I mounted them.

This is how my install turned out, T tapped off of the door sills once installed and put RGB strip with a fancy controller for it all. Turned out great.

I found out Molex now allows you to buy the terminal if you are doing your own custom footwell lights, just FYI. https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/2000963101

Sorry all, for some reason I didnt have notifications turned on for my own post.... I'll share some finished product pics soon.

It may or may not click, the real test is if light force wont cause it to come out and if the locking tab reseats perfectly flush again to the connector housing.

After using this pin a while I can confirm its a 12V PWM dimmed signal. It may or may not be a good idea to use a relay with it as it could induce audible relay chattering. Probably OK but havent tested it. I ended up running my door sills and 4 seats of footwell lights no issue directly however.

The picture was reference only on the process since I had another type easily accessible. These pins are sometimes very difficult to get that final push and may require a very small flat head to chase behind and drive home (or use some needle nose gently on the wire to put some force into it to get it to seat). Also make sure that locking tab is either fully removed or properly popped out enough. What can also happen is that raw exposed pin they have flapping around in the box can get ever so slightly bent and make it harder to insert.

Sorry for the late response but yes its that simple. Just getting to it is a pain and dealing with that locking clip.

Anyone else check their huds for this faint glow/reflection?

Trying to find where/who I can contact on the GM side to discuss all issues I've seen with my truck so far. My list includes: 1) The above. 2)Bluetooth/Android Auto cutting out once or twice per boot shortly after start - GM is aware of this and working to fix it (I know through connections). 3)Sometimes cellular connection to the truck glitches out and won't get data through (google assistant wont be able to do anything). And then it will complain about not having offline maps even though it has them downloaded. Might be a separate issue of google account loading improperly. 4) Some seldom laggy/freezing apps like navigation shortly after boot. 5) Multipro lockout feature doesn't activate/work. Maybe bad software in the module that controls it? 6) Forward collision assistance stopped working entirely once for me (pulled battery and rebooted, hasnt happened since).

Just wondering if anyone else has bought a recent GMC Sierra platform with a HUD and if they have seen these "reflections" from inside the HUD. I worked at a different company that made HUDs and IPCs for GM, Ford, and others and know a bit of why this is happening. It's a surface somewhere on the inner mirror assemblies that isn't perfectly matte and is reflecting some light in an unintended path back onto the windshield. It's not the bezel at the top on the dash. Not super obvious but enough to annoy me. I find if I adjust the height just to the top where it starts to cut off, the anomaly gets cutout and removed but any head shift vertically will start to impact HUD image appearance. Maybe I just got a COVID unit....? Don't really want a dealership ripping my brand new truck apart but wondering if all HUDs have this (imo very low quality) issue. J