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matt99199

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  • Name
    Matt McCormick
  • Location
    Michigan
  • Drives
    2022 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali

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  1. Made it custom. I kind of took it to an extreme... I bought a known good company LED strip, wasn't happy with the LED current vs voltage performance (vehicle load dump voltages would have destroyed the LEDs over time), changed out all the SMD resistors to values I calculated, cut them to length along with some tick ABS plastic strips and mounted everything with zip ties. Also sprayed the strips with conformal coating to waterproof them. Then also hacked an existing RGB controller and added my own connectors that latch, did some other tweaks internally, etc. Kind of went overboard but they probably make kits that fit well enough. I could take pictures underneath if interested to show where and how I mounted them.
  2. This is how my install turned out, T tapped off of the door sills once installed and put RGB strip with a fancy controller for it all. Turned out great.
  3. I found out Molex now allows you to buy the terminal if you are doing your own custom footwell lights, just FYI. https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/2000963101
  4. Sorry all, for some reason I didnt have notifications turned on for my own post.... I'll share some finished product pics soon.
  5. It may or may not click, the real test is if light force wont cause it to come out and if the locking tab reseats perfectly flush again to the connector housing.
  6. After using this pin a while I can confirm its a 12V PWM dimmed signal. It may or may not be a good idea to use a relay with it as it could induce audible relay chattering. Probably OK but havent tested it. I ended up running my door sills and 4 seats of footwell lights no issue directly however.
  7. The picture was reference only on the process since I had another type easily accessible. These pins are sometimes very difficult to get that final push and may require a very small flat head to chase behind and drive home (or use some needle nose gently on the wire to put some force into it to get it to seat). Also make sure that locking tab is either fully removed or properly popped out enough. What can also happen is that raw exposed pin they have flapping around in the box can get ever so slightly bent and make it harder to insert.
  8. Sorry for the late response but yes its that simple. Just getting to it is a pain and dealing with that locking clip.
  9. Trying to find where/who I can contact on the GM side to discuss all issues I've seen with my truck so far. My list includes: 1) The above. 2)Bluetooth/Android Auto cutting out once or twice per boot shortly after start - GM is aware of this and working to fix it (I know through connections). 3)Sometimes cellular connection to the truck glitches out and won't get data through (google assistant wont be able to do anything). And then it will complain about not having offline maps even though it has them downloaded. Might be a separate issue of google account loading improperly. 4) Some seldom laggy/freezing apps like navigation shortly after boot. 5) Multipro lockout feature doesn't activate/work. Maybe bad software in the module that controls it? 6) Forward collision assistance stopped working entirely once for me (pulled battery and rebooted, hasnt happened since).
  10. Just wondering if anyone else has bought a recent GMC Sierra platform with a HUD and if they have seen these "reflections" from inside the HUD. I worked at a different company that made HUDs and IPCs for GM, Ford, and others and know a bit of why this is happening. It's a surface somewhere on the inner mirror assemblies that isn't perfectly matte and is reflecting some light in an unintended path back onto the windshield. It's not the bezel at the top on the dash. Not super obvious but enough to annoy me. I find if I adjust the height just to the top where it starts to cut off, the anomaly gets cutout and removed but any head shift vertically will start to impact HUD image appearance. Maybe I just got a COVID unit....? Don't really want a dealership ripping my brand new truck apart but wondering if all HUDs have this (imo very low quality) issue. J
  11. Basically wired the three resistors, heatshrink wrapped them, tied with a zip tie internally and 3D printed a plug for the end. I made an ebay link if anyone wants to buy one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234785652556 7pinplug.stl
  12. I got my version of this mod working and indeed you need to crimp the outer ring down more to make a firm connection for the ground. Just take some pliers and gently push two of the four tabs down. Worked even on my 10m cable. It's probably not "exactly" DVB-T but its close enough to work. I 3D printed some custom connector sheaths to protect the cable and slot into the port (attached). Just filled the ends with some high temp hot glue to make it solid. Will share my camera enclosure 3D model once I make it, trailer is packed away at the in-laws until spring though. I did this for fun for my boat trailer but might not actually mount it to that seeing that the thing goes under water....TBD, might make it water proof and go for it later. Also I made a fake trailer load to test this out since the truck didn't seem to want to switch to the camera view unless a trailer was connected and since my is put away I just ended up putting 3 75ohm 10W resistors in a 7pin connector breakout and it works. I can share details if anyone is interested or can make them for people and create an eBay link. This fake trailer load also allows you to see the lanes every time you use your turn signal like if you had the trailer attached; multi-purpose. Part2.stl Part2.ipt
  13. Found that 75ohms or lower works to fool the truck into thinking you have a trailer with no light problems. You can buy a 7pin connector end without the wires and 3 75ohm resistors to wire from ground to right, left, running lights. Recommend 10W or higher metal resistors even 20W if they will fit (the more mass the better the heatsinking), I left them on for a while and they got up to 85C but still low enough to not melt the plastic connector housing. If anyone wants me to make one for them let me know and I can make a listing on eBay for a tiny bit more than material cost + shipping.
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