matt99199

One of these days I want to remove the rear seat and get to the VPM (video processing module), Im fairly certain simply grounding the coax shields for each cable to the VPM housing and then also to the body/frame would solve all these issues. They AC couple the grounds for these camera lines so that DC current doesnt use them as a sink path if the main ECU ground fails open and it causes all kinds of EMC problems like camera drop outs and glitches.

This is partially wrong, there is a forward facing radar in the bumper that is also apart of the ACC system with the windshield camera. Not that it matters but it is a fusion of the two.

I found this pulling of F11 for the VPM also fixes the glitch I get every month or more. Basically all front windshield camera features fault out and throw a DTC, adaptive cruise control is inoperable along with lane keep assist and auto high beams. Its like the camera or VPM or both have an issue in communication and fault out. Always was fixed by pulling the battery for a minute but now its easier to just pull F11. Now I just need to deep dive fixing the issue or put a toggle switch on F11 but its a three pole micro fuse which is annoying.

I believe the limit for that pin was around 2 amps, 2.4A to trip if I remember correctly.

Any structural metal with a bolt is likely grounded. I put a ring terminal on my wire and put it to a bolt on the center console near the feet, there is one one either side.

It can but it doesnt need to, it only needs to slide out a tiny bit to let the wire in. Luckily even if you break it, it will be held in by the connector housing once reinserted so its fine if it breaks its retaining ends.

Yep, top left, its upside down in the pic.

No idea, but I can imagine GM probably only designed one BCM and ELM for their trucks. If you look up above your left foot and see two modules then its a safe bet.

My bad, I forgot the prior conversations. For your application you have to T-tap off of the other three signals you need for your application. Only one of these pins is needed to breakout the dome light signal for any project. The others will be different wires that are already populated for right, left, parking, etc lights.

No, you would have to splice all four of those into one wire that feeds into X1 pin 1.

Just one is needed to plug into X1 pin 1 and get the signal out.

Link to buy the pins crimped on wires has changed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/135030851502

If your truck is like mine and a newer or refreshed model then the BCM and ELM are back to back on the same bracket. We have been talking about the BCM this whole time but on the ELM X1 should be pink and the pin 1 of that X1 connector should be your parking light wire. It will be thicker and can be T tapped off of directly. Just ignore the anode and cathode stuff below, that was for me and putting diodes in to trigger functions (boost auto mods but done myself).

No, only X1 pin 1 will be the interrior dome light signal. All other pins serve different functions. The headlamp switch signal you mentioned is probably the physical switch signal itself from the switch on your dash board, not the parking light signal you need. Ill have to look back where I got my parking light signal from, give me a moment.

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/260412-2022-gmc-sierra-1500-and-others-bcm-footwell-lighting-pinout-denali-doorsill-install-info/page/3/#comment-2638226