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matt99199

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  • Name
    Matt McCormick
  • Location
    Michigan
  • Drives
    2022 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali

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  1. Basically wired the three resistors, heatshrink wrapped them, tied with a zip tie internally and 3D printed a plug for the end. I made an ebay link if anyone wants to buy one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234785652556 7pinplug.stl
  2. I got my version of this mod working and indeed you need to crimp the outer ring down more to make a firm connection for the ground. Just take some pliers and gently push two of the four tabs down. Worked even on my 10m cable. It's probably not "exactly" DVB-T but its close enough to work. I 3D printed some custom connector sheaths to protect the cable and slot into the port (attached). Just filled the ends with some high temp hot glue to make it solid. Will share my camera enclosure 3D model once I make it, trailer is packed away at the in-laws until spring though. I did this for fun for my boat trailer but might not actually mount it to that seeing that the thing goes under water....TBD, might make it water proof and go for it later. Also I made a fake trailer load to test this out since the truck didn't seem to want to switch to the camera view unless a trailer was connected and since my is put away I just ended up putting 3 75ohm 10W resistors in a 7pin connector breakout and it works. I can share details if anyone is interested or can make them for people and create an eBay link. This fake trailer load also allows you to see the lanes every time you use your turn signal like if you had the trailer attached; multi-purpose. Part2.stl Part2.ipt
  3. Found that 75ohms or lower works to fool the truck into thinking you have a trailer with no light problems. You can buy a 7pin connector end without the wires and 3 75ohm resistors to wire from ground to right, left, running lights. Recommend 10W or higher metal resistors even 20W if they will fit (the more mass the better the heatsinking), I left them on for a while and they got up to 85C but still low enough to not melt the plastic connector housing. If anyone wants me to make one for them let me know and I can make a listing on eBay for a tiny bit more than material cost + shipping.
  4. Typically you want to keep the total length from serializer and deserializer less than 15 meters but I cant say either way if it will still work or not. Testing vs actual use case vary. The problem is the multiple connectors in the path and cable loss at these high frequencies. Each connector on the path is an impedance discontinuity and loss of signal strength. The chipsets have some emphasis control and may work at these lengths but TI would have to comment. I wouldn't try introducing any more loss like a switcher however and keep it to only one continous cable. The other thing to consider which seems silly in the grand scheme is the DC power supplied over the coax too, cameras dont draw much but also have an operating voltage range and the longer the cable the bigger the voltage drop.
  5. One thing that comes to mind is if you could find a coax or RF switch box. Not sure if it will be rated for FPD III speeds since they can operate up to 3.75Gbps IIRC but keep that maximum bit rate in mind, good luck!
  6. I'm looking at doing this to test the "poor man's trailer camera" mod on this forum. Seems the truck will recognize a trailer if there is any <100ohm load on the trailer lights, right or left light pins but it doesn't like the load I have now and is throwing errors. Just using some 10W chunky metal housing resistors. Still trying to find what current won't throw an error on the DIC but my guess is it will be around >350mA per pin to think it has a genuine trailer connected. Problem is 0.35A * 12V = 4.2W per line to dissipate in just heat is kind of crazy and will probably melt a plastic housing if not properly heatsinked Turn signals aren't a concern since they are seldom used, pulsed, and not on for long but the running lights and brake lights (left and right ON) pose the problem. Not a problem for quick tests but probably not something you want to plug in just to override the software to allow use of the camera views while turning. Will keep you all updated if I find a proper value and something that can work 24/7, either way you would have a 7pin connector stub always inserted...
  7. It would work with a BNC cable but as I said in the post above, it's not analog 75ohm style camera system. It's a 50ohm impedance system so if your wire was 75ohm it will have to be re-ran.
  8. It's not an analog signal any longer, these cameras operate on TI FPD Link III and it's a pretty sensitive protocol. Signal integrity and impedance matching is very important.
  9. There didn't seem to be any other local 12V lines in the area of the center console to tap off of but you could easily run a fuse tap off of the driver side fuse box and fish it above the footwell and through the center console trim to get back there.
  10. Update: With my door sills also installed and ON, the total current I could pull before a trip occurred was 2.48A. Safe bet is the tripping point could be anywhere near 2.5A on the pin with tolerances on top of it so I wouldn't draw more than 2A if you use this pin. Might want to consider a relay if driving any large amount of LEDs or load. I want to put under glow lights later on when you open the door so you can see where you step (got those GMC puddle lights that only look cool but don't work to watch where you are going) so I will be installing a relay at some point. I asked Molex about the terminal and they don't want people buying them for personal use as I figured, bummer.
  11. It's just a terminal pin, basically you take your existing X1 connector out, pop off the side locker for the pins (be careful not to break it, its fragile), orient the new pin with the smallest part of it facing up (if connector is facing up also), push it in until you hear a very faint click or you cant pull it out with low force, reinsert the side locker and plug it back in. The connector below isn't the one in the car but it gives you the idea.
  12. Below is the link to an ebay listing if anyone wants the terminal wire stub to tap into their BCM as well. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234732009309 Still working on load testing the pin and contacting molex for alternatives.
  13. Also it's a ****** to get to this last connector since its against the firewall. Recommend to remove the door-footwell trim kick panel that you scuff your free across to get in to gain better access to the BCM (like you would if you were installing the denali door sill light panels).
  14. I figured it out myself!!! Without help from any dealer or my friend. I mean I guess wrong instructions count as help but.... So it is still X1 as it says in the old instructions but for 2022 refresh they rotated the BCM 180deg to double up modules onto the same bracket (ELM on the right, BCM on the left side). But the connector is not grey as stated in the document, it's black now. However it still looks the same and it's still pin 1. This will work for the denali door sills install. For footwell lights its a bit trickier. Basically the pins are not off the shelf. Molex makes these connectors and parts for GM only. However I work for a supplier and have some spare cut offs with a stub of wire with a crimped pin on it. I'm willing to ship out if you pay for shipping and small finders fee (PM me). I'll contact Molex and see if we can get uncrimped pins from them or not but I have a feeling they will say no unless it's business related. My next step is to electronic load test this circuit to see the cutoff. It's possible you may be able to drive some footwell lights directly. Will keep you guys updated.
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