Dr1ft3r

That's awesome! I don't fly as much as I used to, I drive most of the time since Covid started. But I always fly Delta and rent vehicles from Hertz when I do. I've been a contractor in the aerospace industry for 15 years and have done work for companies like Lockheed Martin, Boeing, Raytheon, Dassault, and Spirit to name a few. Most of the time my contracts are in rural areas, which I like. I'm actually sitting at a computer terminal on a contract for Raytheon as I'm typing this. Tonight after work I'll be heading to one of my properties for a couple of days. It's about an 8 hour drive from here.

I travel for a living, so I'm a road warrior. My longest haul was 3000 miles without stopping to sleep. That was from Naples, FL to Boise, ID about 3 years ago. It took me 43 hours. I stopped about every 2 hours for gas and to relieve myself. I'm not a truck driver and I don't use drugs (in case that came to mind). It did involve a lot of Red Bull though. I'm also in my mid-forties, so I'm not a spring chicken. In other words, what you can handle depends on your constitution.

I realize that this is an old post, but that 2nd pic helped me out immensely! I am installing a 2nd battery and I wasn't sure about where I was going to ground it. I was initially going to ground it on the engine block, but now that I can see where the factory ground is at I'm going to ground it in the same location (after I verify the resistance). I didn't see any info on the factory auxiliary battery ground point in the upfitters electrical manual. I'm glad I stumbled onto this pic while searching Google. I'm hooking a winch up to the 2nd battery and the maximum draw is just over 500 amps. The winch will be grounded on the battery though. The 50 amp dc-dc charger I'm installing to keep the battery charged requires a common ground between the primary and auxiliary batteries. So, while none of the winch current should ever flow through the battery ground, I'm still more comfortable using the factory ground points. Thanks again!

Changing tire sizes is a common thing to do. I seen it in racing a lot. There are plenty of aftermarket shops that have the ability to correct your speedometer. It doesn't have to be done at the dealer. In fact, I think it's illegal for the factory to lock out the ability to have the speedometer calibrated since it's a Federal law that a speedometer must be accurate within 5 mph at a speed of 50 mph and there's no law preventing someone from changing their tire size. If the dealers don't want to make some money for a simple adjustment, spend your money somewhere else.

Fair enough. I thought it may be irrelevant, but I linked it just in case. One would think that GM would include instructions on how to install this.

I'm not really interested in doing something like this myself. So I just use Krown. I have had good experiences with them. It's not that expensive (to me) and well worth the cost over the time and work it would take me to do it myself. I didn't get it this year since I just bought my truck in January. But I'll have it done before next winter.

That's awesome for you then. I'm happy that they are working the way you want them to. I found myself still having to get out of the truck to look at the blind side of the trailer when backing up while turning into somewhere. I had hoped that the cameras would prevent me from having to get out of the truck to do that. Part of the issue may have been the small viewing window on the Haloview monitor, it is pretty small when looking at more than 1 camera at a time. I also had to get out of the truck to check overhead clearances. Sure, the cameras helped in some situations, but not as well as I would have liked. They are definitely not a replacement for a good spotter. Maybe I set my expectations too high? In any case, I'm happy with the GM setup.

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/236815-lets-install-the-upfitter-switches/

I used the Haloview system on my last trailer. If the side cameras work for you then that's great. For me, I found them to be kind of useless overall. I was hoping they would help me when backing the trailer into a spot while alone and they mostly only seemed to help for checking my blind spots while driving. But the sideview cameras on my truck which come on when I use a turn signal work just fine for that. However, I found the rear camera from Haloview to be helpful. On my new trailer I prefer the transparent trailer option from GM.

I use this in conjunction with Google Maps (I'm also a subscriber which unlocks more features): https://www.rvlife.com/app/ I used to only use Google Maps, but my new trailer is over 13' tall. I really don't want to take out my air conditioner on a low overpass if I'm not paying attention. I also don't want to have to turn around in a tight spot if I am paying attention. So an RV GPS is essential for traveling off of the Interstate. From what I gather, no RV app is completely perfect in every way. But I hear that Garmin is a very good GPS. It also costs several hundred dollars. https://www.garmin.com/en-US/c/automotive/rv-camper-motorhome-gps/

Everyone has to learn something for the first time. Also, after I set my gain at just below having the trailer wheels locking up, I dial it down just a tad bit more if I can feel the trailer pulling the truck just before I come to a complete stop. It probably doesn't hurt anything when the trailer does that, but I don't like it.

Mine was ordered and had 6 miles on it when it arrived at the dealer. The test drives at the factory are included in the odometer. 80 miles is one thing, but I would be worried if my vehicle had 0 miles on it. That means it was never tested.

The gain does matter when you squeeze the manual controller. That's how you set the gain to the correct value. You drive at 25 mph on level pavement and squeeze the manual controller. The gain should be set to a level where the trailer brakes are just shy of locking up. The amount of gain needed will vary depending on how much weight is loaded in the trailer. If your gain is not at 10.0 then set it higher and try again. If you get to 10.0 and the wheels still do not lock up, then the brakes may need adjusted.

Great! I may pick those up too. I'm already eyeballing a 3-ton off road floor jack. For if I have to change a tire on the truck or the trailer while on the road. I hate crawling on the ground, lol. Well, I'm also going to need it for my winch install. The 1/2" thick steel mount plates and winch will weight in excess of 200#.

I'm not the person which stated the 10 speed has to hunt for gears. It sounds to me like you feel the need to justify your purchase to everyone else since you want to discount other people's opinions which contradict your own. I couldn't care less what you buy. If you want the 10 speed then go for it! I'm not here to dissuade anyone. I just know what I like and I don't care if you like it or not. Good luck in your endeavor.