Ausslo

I actually was curious if they lit up when the brakes were self applied (which made sense to me) so I had someone follow behind me while on the phone with them and asked if they came on when I felt the decell going down a hill and they confirmed that in fact they were lighting up. It definitely increases wear, I use the cancel button to overcome it and still have half pad or more at 50k. I rarely find a use for adaptive cruise as I find people cut so close to you that even on the min distance setting it over uses the brakes.

At night you can see the brake lights activate.

Just FYI even with adaptive cruise off the regular cruise still uses the brakes to maintain speed so on down hill runs, even if it is only going 1-2 mph over set speed, it actively engages brakes reducing fuel milage and significantly increasing brake pad wear. If and when I use cruise I disengage on downhill runs to combat this problem. PITA

"I had a problem with that system (different code but also related to the purge vent valve) and the dealer had it figured out and fixed in a couple hours under warranty. " Yeah that is for the vent valve not CANP- it is a known problem and has been for a long time the fix involves replacing the vent valve and installing a filter where there wasn't one from the factory, you would think GM would fix this as it dates back over 10 years. There are no known TSBs in AllData for my particular problem.

"2024? Let the dealer deal with it unless you are out of warranty by mileage." Dealers are notoriously horrible with intermittent problems, especially under warranty. That's why I am checking to see if anyone in the collective has or has had the similar problem.

Anyone else seeing this code come up? Very intermittent, replaced the purge solenoid just because bad windings can cause intermittent circuit codes and its easy and cheap to rule out but P0458 Evap Control Valve "A" Circuit Low- still frequently/infrequently comes back no rhyme or reason, of course it kills the truck when running on remote start and disables remote start until I clear it or it clears itself. Happens when tank is at various levels from full to empty and will go multiple tanks before setting to several times on 1 tank.

The harness on the drivers side comes through behind the brake pedal straight up, you have to be on the floor under the pedal looking up the firewall to see it.

That happened to my 2016 once because it wouldn't quite roll all the way back and I smacked it a couple of times straight in with the palm of my hand a couple of times and it rolled back and came out, sprayed with WD40 and it never happened again. good luck.

That kit is actually a plug and play for the primary fuse block though you could use it on the auxiliary block with some modifications. I just installed it on mine.

Ordered 4/4 ---> Drove home 6/8

My plans depend on whether or not GM can build and deliver a truck and how long it takes

Not flexing either just clarifying, if you read the entire post you might understand. Not sure what you disagree with we are saying the same thing with the exception that it has to rotate some to engage- not be rotating, there is a difference.

Just clarifying, what I said is more accurate and self explanatory.

"Electric Brakes" MUST be rotating is just a little misconceiving for people that know nothing about the mechanics of it. They do not have to be rotating (Rolling), they do have to rotate just a few inches once the magnet is actuated by the peddle or the controller before it engages the shoe to the drum, so if you are sitting still on flat ground in drive let off the brake pedal and engage the brakes with the controller it should not roll far at all before you feel them engage if gain is properly set.

The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. If you were closer Id say come by and I would be glad to help. I would also say this, adjusting drum brakes is an art you eventually get a feel for it, slight drag can have a different meaning to each person.

No

Think of it this way, there is no difference in pushing the brake or sliding the switch when it comes to activating the trailer brakes, gain controls the amount of trailer braking for both actions. The biggest reason the switch is there other than to test or set them is if the trailer starts swaying you want to grab that switch and NOT press the brake peddle and at that point they need to act just like you pushed the brake and NOT lock up, make sense?

On flat and level it should not allow you to roll in drive at idle, but not regardless of gain setting. They do not need rotation, when activated it uses an electro magnet to engage the shoes assuming we are talking electronic controller with drum brakes on the trailer.

I am assuming you have the Gain turned up correct?

Yeah I haven't been in this forum very long and have read some absolutely ridiculous post, this being one of them.

-"I have monitored the crankcase pressures of my wife's personal self-destructive Ecotec 2.4 with proper Dwyer instrumentation"- Get a scope, Pico, Snap on or the like and do a throttle snap test while watching vac/pressure readings, much more accurate and viewable on a graph than a digital gauge. I also disagree that you have the only engine on the planet that does not form carbon on the throttle plate with this type of PCV system. Crankcase vapors do in-fact travel from the engine crankcase to the intake via the airbox through the throttle body under certain operating conditions on a normal operating engine.

Well KARNT other than the a/c condenser defect , 1 Thermostat, 1 front and 1 rear brake job I have had 0 repairs to my AFM-VVT vehicle -0 in 115,000 no lifter ticks nothing. If that is brilliant to you, great, I am just happy that I spent less on those oil changes than others did in repairs. What's your experience working on cars or owning an AFM-VVT engine? Also Exactly what components did I add to the engine? you lost me there.