GATORB8

Just as a point of clarification since it may not jump out, there is a sequence in addition to the stepped torque procedure, see the numbers on the nuts: Each of the steps would be done to the four nuts in the numeric order above before moving onto the next step.

I think it's the unfixed lower plate that creates an issue with a straight torque value, unlike most standard fastener torque ratings. These don't appear to be torque to yield. I try to always use a tell-tale like a paint pen to watch for loosening fasteners. Install and torque then mark across the bolt/nut/surface. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09D9M2R5R?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5&th=1

This isn't ZR2 specific, it is the only value listed for the 24 2500HD.

Rear ubolt sequence and values from Alldata:

Wanted to share a new option for front bumper light mounting that is in production. A few buddies and I have HD GMs and Jeeps, and we linked up with the owner of ORC, who we know through our Jeep circles and asked if he'd be interesting in filling a gap we were seeing in our lighting mount options. We all felt we didn't like the cost or look of the current option on the market. ORC does quality US made Jeep bumpers. Owner recently relocated to Asheville, NC area from FL, and I've gotten to know them in a social setting over the last 6-12 months, several of my buddies have their products on their Jeeps with good feedback. This design has be test fitted confirmed no cutting/bolt on for the Sierras, we're trying to schedule a test fit on my '25 ZR2 for the next week or two. I'd recommend Chevy guys hold off until I can confirm fitment. Presale is on for the first design run at 25% off for July shipping, comes in right at $500 with the discount which I think is a good value for US built low volume. https://orcdesignllc.com/products/2024-2025-gmc-sierra-hd-front-bumper-light-bar

Stock ZR2

I had originally planned to, but have been very impressed with the stock ride on the Multimatics so it'll likely wait until out of warranty shock failure. From this thread it looks like the brake line routing will have to be redone as part of the swap since most RR shocks utilize the ZR2 location for reservoir mounts. The 37" fit stock, so I didn't need to swap to accommodate a lift. Not real learned up on the HTOs, but I'd expect you'll likely get a better ride out of the Foxes than the BS 5100s. Fox doesn't normally use the stiffer digressive valving. I didn't see the HTOs as an option on the Fox site last fall when I made the spread sheet. A buddy of mine just swapped his AT4X 3/4 out for an AT4 1 ton, he's got the King RR Adjustibles to put on, so I look forward to his feedback since he'll have direct Multimatic experience. Regarding the BS 5100s, from experience with both on our Jeep, I'd highly recommend springing for the 5160s (same ~2" body with a remote reservoir). They're normally the cheapest RR option, and I saw significant ride improvement over the 5100s back to back.

Since I got some info from this thread, thought you guys may be interested in the shock comparison I started putting together when I got my ZR2 Gasser.

Is the front LCA insertion location moved, maybe?

Let me know what you hear.

To be fair, I chatted them, but I waited 15 minutes to be connected so I assumed it was one of the cognito guys. Only thing I can think is that a different location in the LCAs require a different length that would even matter.

@Epsilon Plus Couple questions for you, if you don't mind. My truck is in transit so I don't have access yet, and am considering ordering a couple things before it shows up so I'll have brand new take off parts to sell. Considering Accutuned King or Fox elite 2.5s, but there's no specific data on correct min/max lengths so I can pick the right ones. Any chance you took a compressed measurement on the bump stop? Does the shock act as the droop limit with the ZR2 parts, or is there something else holding it back? Which length 5100s are you running? Cognito is saying their Comfort Ride Torsion Bars wont work on the ZR2. You used your stock bars on yours right? Did you happen to identify if the stock bars are the same between the Z71 and ZR2?