kencar62

I had a similar experience and it was failing intake gaskets. They were drawing in air from the galley (underside), so spraying carb cleaner didn't reveal the leak. Replaced the gaskets & the code(s) went away. That issue also took out one catalytic convertor when the ECM kept dumping in extra fuel to fix the lean misfire.

Dr Speedometer fixes all the various issues for $189. https://drspeedometer.com/gmc/sierra-2003-2006 This article explains all the issues I'm seeing. https://drspeedometer.com/ultimate-guide-to-gm-gauge-problems-and-how-to-repair

The battery has been running down on my 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 if it isn't started / driven in ~weeks time. Using a multi-meter between the Neg Post & Cable, I was able to verify an initial current draw of ~2 amps, then it drops off to ~1/2 amp. But then it pulses between 1/2 amp & a negligible draw. Pulling fuses, I narrowed it down to the DIC (Driver Information) circuit (aka Gauge Cluster). If that fuse is pulled, it stops the drain. Unfortunately, that fuse is necessary for the gauges to function, so it can't be left out. Also, I did notice the Odometer reading pulsing on & off occasionally when I was checking the current draw. This isn't my Daily Driver anymore, so it sits for 1-2 weeks between being driven. Several months ago, I noticed the Odometer display would get stuck cycling between the various languages. I could usually get it to settle down, but not always. Can't remember if this started before or after I experienced the dead battery issue. Finally decided the old battery needed replaced & I bought a replacement. It stayed charged for a few weeks before I went out one day to drive the truck & it was dead again. Jump it off & it runs fine. Can the gauge cluster be easily repaired? Can I swap in another cluster from a roughly same year range truck? I know the mileage would be off, but can it be reprogrammed to match the old cluster?