Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


music last won the day on November 17 2013

music had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

99 Good

About music

  • Rank
    Senior Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
  • Location
  • Gender
  • Drives
  1. Wash and wax your truck, and you'll come to your senses. Mine was bought new in '08 as well, and just turned 60k miles. Also, you can buy a new truck any time... but imagine trying to find/buy *your* truck for what it's worth today.
  2. That is absolutely the best looking '15 F-150 I've seen, and changed my mind about them. Every one I've seen is *ugly* from the front, but he managed to make it look right. Need to study the differences vs what I've seen in person.
  3. I haven't posted here in a while, but this thread hits home w/ me. I've been towing campers in the 5k to 7k+ lb (loaded) range w/ 1500s for a long time. I fall square into the camp of ~8k lbs max for a 1500 when towing long distances (hitting the interstates), or often. It's not the power, but the frame/suspension that makes the difference, when high winds, big trucks, crazy roads and weather hit (sometimes all at once). Even for mine, I'm running Michelin LT/E tires, and put the pressure to ~55 psi when towing. That cuts into daily mpg and ride comfort (not much, but a little), but it's well worth it when towing w/ family on board. That, plus the Reese dual cam makes for a comfortable/safe tow, but I really wouldn't want another 400 lbs in the truck plus 2k lbs more at the hitch. If daily driving is the priority, then my vote would be to lighten the load and get the 1500. If you intend to stick w/ that camper plus the toys... then you're well into HD zone, especially if towing much distance. My 2 cents... for what little it's worth.
  4. You won't notice the mpg difference, and the answer is a loud "YES"... turn it off.
  5. It amazes me how different experience folks can have with the same model truck. Mine has been great, and I've had zero interest in the new ones as of yet (any make or model).
  6. TPMS isn't calibrated, it just uses a "nominal" pressure sensor voltage/resistance per psi. I'd guess +/- 10% at best, since the only purpose is to warn you when you get low.
  7. Thanks for the input guys. I see the AC Delco (OEM) version on Amazon for $35 ea (identical to what dealer sells @ $80 ea), and some no-name brand models on ebay for like $15 ea. There's not much to these things (static pressure sensor, 315 mhz transmitter), but lifespan depends on the battery. I doubt that there is any difference between the Delco and no-name, and they're all "made in china". Hmm...
  8. Lost signal on a TPMS sensor over the weekend. Searching around, it looks like these things have a service life of ~ 10 years, but obviously... not all last that long. I'm about 6 years in on these, with 61k miles. I didn't think about it when getting new tires, but I should have replaced them all then. Buying the AC delco OEM part online, and having my tire shop install, will run about $50 per tire. There's no cost savings to changing four vs one at a time, but it's irritating to be driving down the road with that warning light going on and off every few minutes as it fails. I'm curious if folks change them all at once (like tires), or one at a time as they go?
  9. Already bought them. LTX/MS2. I picked the LT/E, since I tow a camper. Otherwise, the p.metric is lighter and easier riding due to the lower pressure needed, and softer sidewall. Even so, these LT tires ride amazingly nice at 50 psi.
  10. 2008 w/ 60k miles, many of which have been towing a camper. Brakes look about half worn.
  11. I read the article, but saw no mention of rated payload. Your example is reasonable as an unsafe condition, but has no bearing on the relative safety of being right at the rating, or 5 lbs over. A small company, as the guy seemed to be discussing, is in an entirely different boat than a guy pulling a RV for personal use. Depending on weights and purpose, he can easily find himself regulated by the DOT, and treated as a commercial entity. A guy could be 3k lbs under the rating, but have crappy tires, worn brakes, a crack in the hitch, and more, and somehow be safer than a guy that has excellent equipment, but 1 lb over the rating? A driver will not feel or otherwise notice 300 extra lbs on the truck when they're starting at 7000+ to begin with, assuming the proper equipment is being used. Wreckless endangerment is usually a pretty obvious condition, and can happen by a multitude of means. To be clear, I'm not advocating folks ignore ratings, and i use them myself, but legal liability for an accident is not related to those numbers, that I'm aware.
  12. I've never read a single US state law for private vehicles that mentioned manufacturers payload. Anyone care to share one?
  13. A agree, but the energy that has to be dissipated from 40 mph in an emergency maneuver will be 4 times higher than a 20 mph stop. I can't imagine strapping 9k lbs to one of these trucks and going down steep grades, or driving along busy highways. A back road at 30 mph wouldn't be too bad, so long as there weren't many hills. Even if the truck will stop, the trailer is going to just push it around sideways. There's just not enough braking surface on the 4 truck tires to do the job. The weight on the trailer tires means that e-brakes can put that friction to the road. I'm pretty sure we're in agreement here, but hoping nobody would be foolish enough to go towing those kinds of loads w/o trailer brakes.
  14. That's a bit of a stretch. J2807 braking tests are only from 20 mph. I think every state in the country requires e-brakes over ~3000 lbs anyways. That said, rules or not, we want the trailer stopping the truck at these weights... not the other way around. http://www.automobilemag.com/features/news/0912_sae_tow_ratings_finally_pass_sniff_test/braking_and_stopping_distance.html
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.