rah7777777

Thanks! I’ll have to look that one up! For anyone looking to take the chrome piece off, this is what I found. - there are 2 strips of double sided adhesive holding it on the frame, all the way down. Pretty stout adhesive as well - if the chrome piece was off completely, you’d have 2 lips on the top and bottom that would look funny I think. - it’s not too hard to get the steps off the motor and arms so it’s easier to handle. So im just going to have the chrome side and top all coated in bed liner spray, leaving the chrome piece on the steps but hidden under the bed liner spray (assuming it can scuff the chrome up good enough)

Fuse box terminals - MFG P/N 13849935-L OR Mouser P/N 829-1384995-L This part number seems to be obsolete now, anyone know the new number?

Bought a set off of here, picked them up last weekend (Thanks Papa-T). I'm going to get the chrome sprayed with bed liner spray to make them all black and then get those bad boys installed! Can't wait.

Great information!! I was gonna have the dealer do the bulletin but I’ll just do this instead.

Thats good to know!! Thanks!

we’re trying to figure out what we are going to get. Going to an RV show in Dallas this weekend to poke around. I have a 2018 crew cab Z71 with 5.3L, 3.42 gears and 6 speed without max tow package. We’re currently looking at a 29’ with a slide out that’s 5300 dry and 7700 GVWR. I’d greatly prefer something that is lighter dry but it’s all a give and take deal. Im positive on getting a weight distribution hitch, sway bar for the camper and putting airbags on the truck. I feel like we’d be okay if I do that. And get a camper that has the smooth curved front for breaking the wind better than the angled corrugated sheet metal versions.

I would dig into this a little and see if you can find anything burnt and melted in that black box before you take it to a glass shop. If you can show them a melted connection they might be a little more willing to help??? Just a shot in the dark.

After thinking about it, its probably not a true "short". That whole circuit is basically a giant resistor (as that is what creates the heat to defrost the glass) So I'm assuming it is pulling a descent amount of current. I bet the true issue is a poor connection in that black box that is causing high resistance. When you are pushing current, you don't want resistance as that in itself will heat up and start to scorch the contacts. I'd bet money that is what everyone smells before hand. Contacts in the black box have too high of resistance and start to scorch, heat up and smoke and that high heat concentrated in that box on the glass is what shatters the glass. I bet if you held a small torch on the corner of the glass, it would do the exact same thing.

That black box is shorting out and causing a good amount of heat (thats the by product of electrical resistance in itself) Excessive heat and glass do not mix when the glass doesn't get a chance to warm up at a slow rate. (much less getting hit with cold air on the exterior of the glass) I performed an accidental experiment much like this a few years ago. took a room temperature casserole dish (glass) and sat it on top of a hot stove burner. After a couple minutes it did exactly what that back glass has done in so many pics above.

After reading all of this, I think i'm just going to unplug mine. Never needed it on my old truck (again... Texas) and i'd rather not blow out my back window, especially if my kids are in there and/or its out of warranty.

I don't even understand why it has a defrost on flat glass..... But thats probably easy for someone from Texas to say haha

Better pic. Stock 20” wheels. Lowered rear 2” 2018 Z71

Best pic I have right now. Lowered rear 2” to get it level. Looks much much better now.