Dbeto54

Thanks, I did had to repin a new connector and add one wire from the battery.

Thanks man, bumper was $400, headlights $1400 for the pair from eBay and grille $250 from a recycling place here in Houston. Just missing the hood top grille trim and fog lights. I sold my headlights and bumper for $1500 so it wasn’t too bad.

Still trying to figure out how to make my turn signal amber to DRLs

Well guys, I’m back at doing mods to a GM truck. I went with ford for a couple years really didn’t wanted to mess with my gmc since it was perfectly fine how it was. Well the new 2024 exterior refresh came out and caught my attention and so I decided it was time update it. It is not for everyone, so people go this way some people just trade it in and both are perfectly fine so if it’s not for you don’t sweat it . Here is my progress far.

What year is your HD? Should be a pretty simple hack. I’ll go through it this week and update everyone that is looking to do the amber drl. I went from 2021 to 2024 Front end on my 2500 still in the process not quite done yet lol

Hood has to go unless the front onf the hood gets modified to fit the new grille and headlights

Thanks ? Yeah if they have it available it will save you alot of time just by getting the harness from them. Other than the harness and the lights costing alot its a pretty easy conversion. Good luck and if you have any more question lmk

Here is my 2015 in a foggy morning And my dropped 2007

Thanks I found it on craigslist here in houston tx but Im sure is possible now to find them at some of the junk yards that get late models Thanks No, I have it as a spare but might end up posting on Craigslist and see if it sells

Here is where Im at so far on the rear sliding upgrade, Window installed Switch and plate installed Relays in place Wiring might not look as clean as factory installed but once I put that cover on who is gonna know is even there. Im 95% pretty much done I just need to tap the power and ground source and I'll be all set. Parts used 23373685 GM Rear 3pc glass $200 used plus $65 installation 23104426 Trim Plate Gray $21 new 22774498 Switch $25 ACDelco PT796 Pigtail for the switch $25 5 Pole NC/NO Relay x2 $10 So about $350 total

Yeah thats $3k plus labor. With all the tools, diagrams and parts available and they are not so sure of being capable to get it done right. Thats funny

Yeah thats alot of money. I already got it installed during the weekend. I figured I'll just need to add 1 fuse, 2 relays one to open and one to close it will work as good as factory. So far I have spent about 275 on parts and a used oem rear glass. It shouldn't be more than 350 total when done.

Nevermind wires are only on the rear to connect the motor but non at the overhead console nor at the fuse box. Let me figure this out and I'll post what ever I come up with. I could always just use a 12v toggle switch and be done with it but I really want it to function as oem

Yes factory wiring is already in place. I would only need to add this 2 parts and I'll be set

Im getting mine installed right now I'll let you know how hard wiring was once I get on that.

To each their own

Yes the coil is only energized on auto lights at night or if I do it manually by turning the light knob right. Otherwise the relay is Normally Close sending the current to DRL all the time. What I did was just reroute the low beam drl current to the led strip and back to low beam when coil is energize. The turn signal function is done by the headlight module it self. The drl wire is still hot while turn signal is applied but the module cuts off the led. I believe sierras is done by the bcm instead of the headlight module. I dont see any other explanation for it not to turn off.

Not a problem man. Thats what the forum should be for, to share info and help each other out on DIY projects and on whatever we can.

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This is how I did the relayLow Beam + coming from harness to COM, NC to DRL, NO to Low Beam, and one of the coil to + from parking lights and the other to chassis ground. You can use one on each headlight or just hook up both left and right Low beam to NO and both DRL to NC. Thats how I did it with just one.

Exactly, headlights would cutoff because they go on safe mode to protect the LEDs from the pulsating current and not because of BCM, canbus or any of that. Im glad it worked out for you. And for non SLT just add a NC/NO Relay. The relay switches the current from low beam to DRL and switches it back to low beam when need it thats all needed.

Im using an HID decoder because thats what I had handy and lights are working great, dont know for how long it will work than.

I guess the turn signal function is control through the bcm

I know why they stop working while truck is on, you need to add some capacitator. I wasnt sure if the SLT came with hid or regular bulbs. Dont know why but while truck is running it gets pulsating current and causes the headlight to cutoff but if you put this capacitators it will make the current flow evenly without pulsating. It goes on pin 1. Ground Black-Black and 2. Low beam Yellow-Red Any local HID supplier should have them in stock

The Silverados come with 2 incandescent turn signals on headlights and with the LEDs it triggers the hyperflash bulb-out warning. I took care of the hyperflash with 1 50w 3ohm on each headlight. First I added an HID error canceller that converts pulsating current to normal, but Im sure Sierra SLT doesnt need it. Sencond I added a NC/NO Relay that reroutes the current from the low beam to the DRL and switches back to the low beam at night on auto or whenever I turn the lights on manually. But none of that applies to the SLT trucks becuase everything is already. The older SLT headlights basically have the same functions as the new ones. Here is my repinned plug