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I have no sunroof, so I can rule out a clogged sunroof drain hose. I've driven the truck now 4 days straight, running the A/C on each drive, and I saw nothing on the floor mat. I guess I'll just keep an eye on it for now and wait and see.

Just paid $3.79 in Wisconsin. Diesel is $4.95

$3.99 everywhere in MN and WI. Diesel well over $5.00 now.

Should probably post this here too. This tells you what engines you can get with each trim. Certain engines again won't be available depending on trim. Like no 6.6 V8 in the Trail Boss for example. https://gmauthority.com/blog/2026/08/heres-2027-chevy-silverado-engine-availability-by-trim-level/

Hello, wondering if anyone can help me with this little problem. I was trying to order the Upfitter Switch that has TC, Cargo Light, Blank, Aux 1-4.... Order was cancelled due to "not having it". The only available option to me now is the Upfitter Switch that has all these options, but in the blank space there is "Exhaust Braking". My truck is a gasser, so this is of no use to me. I need to find where Pin 4 and Pin 5 of the X2 connector run to (i.e X61A - X1 - Pins X & Y), and manipulate that somehow to get my desired outcome. Has anyone done this? Would there be any implications with me just doing nothing with it and installing it as is and never using it? I have gathered that it is "momentary" - so there are some considerations there. Please help!

If it is oil and not fuel pooling in there, it almost has to be a head problem. Crack, or loose guide. Those heads are not known for problems, but...

In the motorhome world, people refer to tire manufacturer's pressure-weight charts to determine a good PSI for their motorhome tires. What they do is get axle weights for the vehicle at a CAT scale or other scale. Drive on, drive off, the scale spits out a ticket with the weight over each axle. Then, you know the approximate weight per tire on that axle. Then, you refer to the pressure/weight chart published by the manufacturer and set the tire PSI accordingly. Of course, you will want to adjust (and know how much to adjust) when you decide to carry more weight. For everyday unloaded ride, bringing down the PSI within a safe range that still adequately supports the vehicle's weight relative to the construction of the tire can really help with ride quality and under/over-inflated wear issues. I don't see why it would be any different for a pickup. The key is the tire needs to be rated to support the load safely at the PSI you've selected.

No, no oil came running out of it or anything like that

No oil in intake when you took it off?

Bi-directional scanner? How about a Thinkcar TK689? Bluetooth, and free updates for life...

You SHOULD be. IF you underinflate, you can compromise the truck's handling and stopping. Its an 8400lbs truck. LOTS of weight on the front end empty. Ideally you'll want 55-60psi all the way around. Tire light. GM dealers won't help. LIABILITIES. Others have mentioned tools that exist. That will be your only route.

No.

It only pools overnight. I can let it sit after running at temp for 4 or 5 hours and when it re starts there’s no smoke or misfire. I also find it strange it’s only on cyl 8 if it’s a pcv issue. When looking around with the bore scope the best I could it seemed like it was coming from above, but I had also run the truck prior (needed to pull it in the shop)

I'm really curious to see what the O2 readings and timing looks like when you run it.

I have a hard time seeing oil from 'below' the rings 'pooling' in the cylinder. For an amount great enough to pool getting past the rings I would expect to see that same amount contributing to other noticeable symptoms, low compression, blow by, etc. You could try investigating for a stuck, gummed or carboned up ring, maybe an oil with different detergent strategy. Some other shade tree solutions like adding a detergent (or mystery oil) to the chamber and letting it sit, I've also heard of a heavy use of 'engine braking' to load the rings differently. I would first be looking at oil entering from 'above' via a head issue, or intake/PCV issue. I suspect that the oil is entering cylinder 8 combustion chamber at all times but is getting burned off during each combustion event preventing a 'pool' from forming and lessening visible oil burning smoke. This leads back to valve stems or PCV system as the only route for oil to enter the chamber from. I would expect a PCV issue to not be isolated to cylinder 8 though. Other considerations, how long does it take the pool to form? Could you look for the oil trail via the borescope? (Run the truck, shut the engine off, as quickly as practical, pull the plug and insert the scope and record to see how long and hopefully where from.)

National Average back up to $4.04 for gasoline and $5.35 for diesel. https://gasprices.aaa.com

I’m out of ideas on this truck. 2020 Silverado 1500. 5.3 135,000 miles. Has a p0308 and p050d codes. Smokes From exhaust when cold. Compression test passed. New plugs, wires and coil on cyl 8. Same issue. New coil on 8, no change. Replaced injectors, no change. Bore scope showed oil pooled on the piston after sitting overnight. Pulled head and had machine shop check it out. No cracks. Stem seals looked good, replaced anyways. He also ground valve seats. Put it all back together and still have the same issue. Bore scope shows oil on the piston again. Leaning towards maybe a cracked ring but unsure. Cylinder looked good when the head was off, no scoring or scratches. Any ideas on what else I should look for? Appreciate the help

Just want to make sure it is covered by Special Coverage N232395310 Evaporative Emission Purge Pump 2021 Silverado 1500 Custom 2.7L L3B ~100k miles I'm getting DTCs P146B and P146F. VIN 3GCPWBEK2MGxxxxxx I spoke to a person that works at GM and he said it is not covered after checking my VIN. Is there anyone here who currently works for a GM/Chevrolet dealership and has access to GM Global Warranty Management / Investigate Vehicle History who could explain how the VIN eligibility is determined? thank you

Thanks for all that information, I might purchase one and see if it will work for me, if not they may let me return it! Yes for sure the tires are definitely within limit for my truck empty, and when I do tow I'll definitely make sure to raise the rear psi for the amount of weight that's going to be on it.

Yes exactly, more and more these days people/companies are afraid of liability issues so its easier just to say no rather than risk putting their neck on the line. I will say with the Autel unit or when I used it last year on my truck, it wasn't like I could choose the 2025 model year or even the 2024 model year as that option was not there to manipulate the placard pressures but had to go back to 2023 or there abouts and then it showed up as an option, odd but that was how the software was then and I can't say one way or the other now as they throw out updates every so often. I still would talk to your tire dealer though to start with and they may do it for nothing but also they may have a comment on a better unit to purchase. All I know is that one of the large tire shops in my area happens to use these Autel units for their use and set them up to use the wifi and all of that jazz for constant updating because each tire tech has one handed to them by the shop but I just plugged it into my laptop to update it and yes if one is bought it has to be registered so you can get the link to do updates and then the unit has to be updated before its even used. I am not at all techy so it took me a bit but anyway just a heads up for anything you buy, most likely it will need to be connected to a computer to access the internet to have it updated to the latest software version before you can put it to use. If your truck is near empty, those tire pressures you listed are a very safe upper range pressures to carry the weight, both the front and rear as I know they could be run lower yet with an empty truck. And if its a trailer and not some motorcycle your going to strap onto the front of your truck on a rack, you shouldn't have a need to inflate your front tires if your at 55 front already, its the rear ones that would need more air if you have much hitch weight.

Thank you, I'll check that Autel scanner out and see if it will work for me! Ya I can see GM's point of view if they lower the psi set value for someone and the person sell's the truck and the new owner puts the factory tires back on then their could be liability issues cause the psi warning light wasn't coming on when the tires were under inflated for towing their load and then it might be able to be traced back to GM lowering it.

I had a similar but different response when I talked to the service manager where I bought my truck in that he said GM corporate won't allow them to lower the placard pressure setting as they would get their hand slapped but that of course they have the ability to make that change. His suggestion was simply go to a tire dealer or third party shop that is willing to reset the pressures lower. However I chose to buy a tpms tool and partly based off of this very forum as it had been proven to work on the 2024 model ( Global B system ) and while I could have paid lots for a full two way diag tool, I didn't want to spend that much and bought the recommended Autel TS 508 and it will reprogram the 2025 model and assume it should do the 2026 as well. However the tool is rather proprietary to reprogramming Autel tpms sensors so that is a function I will never use, where as a real two way scanner would have many uses but also have yearly subscriptions etc where this 508 is free updates for as long as they put updates out for the unit. In any event it worked to lower the placard pressures and I often use it to adjust my actual tire pressures although will check with a mechanical gauge as well sometimes just to make sure that tires tpms sensor isn't lying to me. My suggestion is either buy a tool that you know will work to adjust the system or start out by getting the tire shop you bought your tires from to reset your truck and if after that you still want a unit to do it yourself, get one at that point.

Here is an image of a quick Google search about these tires on my truck and it's exactly same psi recommendation the Toyo tires company gave me! I'm not looking for anyone else recommended psi or anything, I'm just looking to see if anyone knew a way to get rid of the factory low psi warning light, because I'm not running high psi and ruining my tires when I'm not towing!

60psi front and 80psi rear But I am not running the factory tire brand or size! it's load range F Toyo tires

Open the driver's door jamb. What do the cold tire PSI ratings on the tire placard show? I'm not saying to run it to those numbers, but I would like to know what it says.