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TexasDevilDog

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About TexasDevilDog

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  1. Look on Facebook Market. I found them for Afor $300. Prices are all over the place so just have patience Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  2. No, the risers on the stock seats connect to the flat part of the seat. The risers on the new seats are part of the reclining mechanism. I had to weld a two support bars and drill holes in the support bars. The width of the risers in the stock seats is slightly over 13". The width in the new seats are 16" so the holes I drilled are inside the risers. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  3. I didn't think it was too bad. I borrowed my buddies welder and welded two strips of 3/16in x 2 in pieces of metal across the bottom. I used a grinder and cutting wheel to remove hooks and nipples on bottom of new seats Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  4. A lot of the truck width has to do with everything in the doors and pillars with airbags and sensors. The width of the new seats is 57in, same as the bench seat that originally came on the 1993 Sierra/Silverado.
  5. As the title says. I came across a set a pretty new 2018 front seats from a Silverado and placed it in my 1993 GMC K1500 single cab truck. I had a bench seat with no back support/no arm rest to buckets with an optional 3rd middle seat console that serves as an arm rest. I have connected power to the 12 volt charger and as soon as I buy a new radio I will connect the USB ports in the center console.
  6. New truck are wider but the rear bumpers mold into the body. Older trucks, the bumpers were either straight or wrapped around body. So even though the 2014+ trucks are wider, the bumpers are similar in size. The brackets are wider though. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  7. Side and angled shots. The holes line up but the new bumper brackets are 3 inches wider which is why I welded the bracket. Going back with longer bolts and spacers as well for security Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  8. Needed to replace the rear bumper on my 1993 GMC K1500 and decided to replace it with a "new" 2014 Sierra/Silverado bumper Came out pretty good
  9. Yes, I ran new speaker wires from the JL Amp to the new speakers in the doors through the existing grommet in the door. I also ran new speaker wires from the output of the Bose amp to the processor (Fix82)
  10. The balance left and right still work. The fade goes between the dash and door speakers which is what I wanted. The JLAudio Fix86 would have full fade between doors. The knob on the radio/stealing wheel still work because the inputs to the Fix82 come out of the Bose amp so as I raise/lower volume it has amplifies or attenuates the signal going into the Fix82 and JL amp.
  11. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra Denali I bought two years ago. With a new baby, it took a while to finally get to work on her. It did serve as an opportunity to see others put in their systems learn from their accomplishments and failures. Like several people here I wanted to upgrade the weak Bose speakers the truck came with and install something a more high end. I also wanted some more kick in the bass department and wanted it somewhat stealth. There are many videos and threads on replacing door speakers so I won’t get into that too much. I installed Focal Expert 165FX Component Speakers in my front doors. (Tweeter in pillar, crossover in the door itself) http://www.focal-america.com/product/ps-165-fx/ Focal Access 165AC 2 way speakers in the rear doors. http://www.focal-america.com/product/165ac/ For the subwoofer, I went with JL Audio’s 12TW# thin line sub. This thing is awesome. Hits hard. I placed it in a Rhino Box that I then wrapped in dark brown pleather to match the bases of the front seats and sewed the edged to match the stitching. http://www.jlaudio.com/12tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92185 The one concern I had coming in was the complaints from many people about loud chimes coming from all the speakers after installs. I some fixes where individuals only pulled the signals from the rear door speakers or eliminated the chimes completely. Neither was going to be an option for me. I found a schematic for the Bose amp that showed which pins powered which speakers. The chimes only came from the driver’s side dash speaker so I left it alone. I did however grab the outputs from the Bose amp that went to the front door speakers, rear door speakers, and sub. To do this I pulled out the back seat and accessed the amp. The right two plugs are the outputs to the all the speakers in the truck. The schematic posted has the pin numbers and colors. I ran the Bose outputs to the JL Audio Fix82 which combined and level-matched automatically into a flat, full-range stereo signal. Differential-balanced inputs accept virtually any OEM analog audio signal, from low-voltage, line-level to high-power, amplified speaker-level outputs. http://www.jlaudio.com/fix-82-car-audio-oem-integration-98100 It comes with a calibration CD and it takes all of 30 seconds to get all sounding good. Instructions in box. I left the front dash speakers connected and since I never used the driver’s dash speaker as an input to the JL Audio Fix82, there was no signal to be amplified. Power for everything was ran from the battery through the grommet on the drivers side (many posts and vids on it) and I used the ignition power from the same power distribution box that has to be moved over to pull in the 4 gauge wire from the battery. (Thank you for whoever found this out)
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