SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Just want to feel smart like I actually know something. Usually I'm wrong though so I'm used to it by now.

If the middle # is 60 or below it's considered a low pro tire.

I know it's the HD section, guess I had a brain fart and forgot he said he had 20s. Even with 20s though if he has factory size tires they're considered low pro. Maybe I'm just saying garbage that isn't true, just what I was thinking. Even though it's rare, I have seen cheap rims break, not just crack, but completely break. I'm sure it's just a defect with the metal itself and see no problem why he won't be able to get it replaced under warranty.

Go to the dealer, don't see why they'd refuse to fix under warranty. I'm sure you have 22s maybe? So less tire sidewall means the tire takes the suspension impact worse and most likely the impact goes to the rim more than if you had more sidewall. The tire sidewall takes road impacts first, not the suspension. So the factory 18s and tires on my '14 when I had it takes impact better than what you probably have. On a side note. This shows that the extra money just gets you more features, not necessarily better quality. Like when someone says "I shouldn't have to deal with this on a 60K truck".

I'm with you, but I don't mind the 4x4 knob on the dash. The other stuff you listen I don't care for. It seems like when you add something for convenience it just causes more problems down the road. I'm actually glad I had to get rid of my '14 LT because all of the electronics. They were not (pretty well equipped but not fully loaded). I liked the stuff it had, but again it would have been an electrical and wiring nightmare since I was planning on keeping it until it wouldn't go anymore. At least now with my '83 I don't have to reset TPSM sensors every time I get new tires or rotate them myself. I just wish my '83 had the auto locking hubs like my buddy's '86 (had in H.S.), but I'm sure I'll get used to it and force me to put it in 4x4 before I get stuck or almost stuck.

Again, it's a way to get you in the door, nothing more rather you want to believe me or not. I can't be 100 sure, but I'll bet all of those offers have the same # and pin no matter who it goes to. If they're not all the same then it's just random #s that mean nothing to make it look "authentic" and real. Dealerships and car manufacturers will do a lot to get you in the door or at least on the lot. But what do I know, I used to work at the same one I bought my '14 as a salesman. I wasn't very good since I didn't want to screw someone over just for my own benefit and if someone wanted something specific but couldn't afford it then I wouldn't even try to talk them into something else since I wouldn't want someone to do that to me since I'm picky.

The fact that you can transfer it to someone else tells me it's just a way to get you into the dealership.

Just one of numerous ways to get you into the dealership, nothing really more to it than that. Plus all dealerships are privately owned so it would be up to the sales manager or even owner to accept the offer. I would just throw it away and move on. You're putting too much effort in my opinion, but do what you want to do.

I had a '98, if I had to get a GMT-400 again I would get a '96-'98 because they have the newer Vortec with sequential fuel injection. Up until then it was TB injection.

I've realized that the more you complicate something to make it easier for the person then that's more problems to fix somewhere down the road. Like the TPMS in my '14 when I had it. Sure it was great not having to manually check all the time like I used to and I did have a tire lose air one time. Bad thing is having to reset them with a tool. Thankfully I didn't buy one before having to get rid of it. I think wanting something more simple again is why I'm looking for an old '87 or older 4x4 square body now.

Ya, but I also figure why get a certain edition and not at least show that it is. It's the same as if for some reason I get a high trim level (like HC or Denali) I would at least want to show what they are. Just an example, not into buying high end trim levels in a truck. I'm usually not the type of person to be flashy and act like "look at what I got". But, if you got it then show it. Especially since sometimes you end up paying a tad more just because it a "special edition". The only way is if you have a performance vehicle and don't want people to know it. Like making an SS Camaro look like it's just the V6. Or taking a Cadi CTS-V and making it look like a normal Cadi.

Elderly Edition with a hitch mount power chair carrier.

Maybe I'm wrong, but other than visual stuff isn't the Alaskan literally just the added plow? Get what you want, it's your money, but I'm personally not really into all these editions. The only way I would even consider a state edition (Texas and Alaskan) is if I lived in that state. But, that's just me.

Don't let member Lalibert see this, he'll tell you that it doesn't look cool enough so you should buy a bed extender to accomplish the same thing while at the same time looking good to other people.

That's the reason I had a locking door (not cap) on my old '98 and my '14. A locking cap is cheap and most if not all doesn't seal as good and usually throws a code. The only reason I worried was because a few years ago kids would mess with people's vehicles. One time someone shot BBs at a handful of cars trying to shot on windows. Luckily they missed my '98 and hit just below the window and left a dimple. Then someone went and slashed a tire on 3 or 4 trucks including mine. Now a days there doesn't seem to be a problem, but you never know.