SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Just want to feel smart like I actually know something. Usually I'm wrong though so I'm used to it by now.

If the middle # is 60 or below it's considered a low pro tire.

I know it's the HD section, guess I had a brain fart and forgot he said he had 20s. Even with 20s though if he has factory size tires they're considered low pro. Maybe I'm just saying garbage that isn't true, just what I was thinking. Even though it's rare, I have seen cheap rims break, not just crack, but completely break. I'm sure it's just a defect with the metal itself and see no problem why he won't be able to get it replaced under warranty.

Go to the dealer, don't see why they'd refuse to fix under warranty. I'm sure you have 22s maybe? So less tire sidewall means the tire takes the suspension impact worse and most likely the impact goes to the rim more than if you had more sidewall. The tire sidewall takes road impacts first, not the suspension. So the factory 18s and tires on my '14 when I had it takes impact better than what you probably have. On a side note. This shows that the extra money just gets you more features, not necessarily better quality. Like when someone says "I shouldn't have to deal with this on a 60K truck".

I'm with you, but I don't mind the 4x4 knob on the dash. The other stuff you listen I don't care for. It seems like when you add something for convenience it just causes more problems down the road. I'm actually glad I had to get rid of my '14 LT because all of the electronics. They were not (pretty well equipped but not fully loaded). I liked the stuff it had, but again it would have been an electrical and wiring nightmare since I was planning on keeping it until it wouldn't go anymore. At least now with my '83 I don't have to reset TPSM sensors every time I get new tires or rotate them myself. I just wish my '83 had the auto locking hubs like my buddy's '86 (had in H.S.), but I'm sure I'll get used to it and force me to put it in 4x4 before I get stuck or almost stuck.

Again, it's a way to get you in the door, nothing more rather you want to believe me or not. I can't be 100 sure, but I'll bet all of those offers have the same # and pin no matter who it goes to. If they're not all the same then it's just random #s that mean nothing to make it look "authentic" and real. Dealerships and car manufacturers will do a lot to get you in the door or at least on the lot. But what do I know, I used to work at the same one I bought my '14 as a salesman. I wasn't very good since I didn't want to screw someone over just for my own benefit and if someone wanted something specific but couldn't afford it then I wouldn't even try to talk them into something else since I wouldn't want someone to do that to me since I'm picky.

The fact that you can transfer it to someone else tells me it's just a way to get you into the dealership.

Just one of numerous ways to get you into the dealership, nothing really more to it than that. Plus all dealerships are privately owned so it would be up to the sales manager or even owner to accept the offer. I would just throw it away and move on. You're putting too much effort in my opinion, but do what you want to do.

Ya, but I also figure why get a certain edition and not at least show that it is. It's the same as if for some reason I get a high trim level (like HC or Denali) I would at least want to show what they are. Just an example, not into buying high end trim levels in a truck. I'm usually not the type of person to be flashy and act like "look at what I got". But, if you got it then show it. Especially since sometimes you end up paying a tad more just because it a "special edition". The only way is if you have a performance vehicle and don't want people to know it. Like making an SS Camaro look like it's just the V6. Or taking a Cadi CTS-V and making it look like a normal Cadi.

Elderly Edition with a hitch mount power chair carrier.

Maybe I'm wrong, but other than visual stuff isn't the Alaskan literally just the added plow? Get what you want, it's your money, but I'm personally not really into all these editions. The only way I would even consider a state edition (Texas and Alaskan) is if I lived in that state. But, that's just me.

Don't let member Lalibert see this, he'll tell you that it doesn't look cool enough so you should buy a bed extender to accomplish the same thing while at the same time looking good to other people.

That's the reason I had a locking door (not cap) on my old '98 and my '14. A locking cap is cheap and most if not all doesn't seal as good and usually throws a code. The only reason I worried was because a few years ago kids would mess with people's vehicles. One time someone shot BBs at a handful of cars trying to shot on windows. Luckily they missed my '98 and hit just below the window and left a dimple. Then someone went and slashed a tire on 3 or 4 trucks including mine. Now a days there doesn't seem to be a problem, but you never know.

I guess Ruger is making sure even ignorant people can find what they're looking for. I mean I've seen a pic of a Glock at a pawn shop or gun store and it said Glock rimfire revolver so you can't always go by what a tag or package says. https://pics.onsizzle.com/9mm-luger-rimfire-revolver-ock-99-glock-g19-9mm-pistol-8834284.png

The thing is that it's really a difference between a clip and magazine. It's not like calling soft drinks either soda or pop depending on where you live. No, clip is not a generic term. It might be to people that aren't all that gun savvy, but someone that actually knows guns knows the difference and uses the right term. What's worse is that you say you know the difference, which you might, but to still call it the wrong term just because some people call it a clip makes me wonder. The only people I've heard or seen call a magazine a clip are people that aren't into guns and just doesn't know the difference thinking it's a "generic" term as you say. Oh and by far nowhere neat being a liberal. All I did was correct you and wasn't arguing with you. You don't see people calling a Chevy a GMC do you just because they're both a GM?

Must be uncomfortable to carry 2 clips, would be better to carry magazines. Well unless you don't know the difference and meant mags.

It's not the auto stop. I think they're talking about how in a normal state you can flip the piece down to have it run without you having to hold it the whole time. I usually use that time to clean my windshield so it would piss me off not being able to click it to run by itself. I still keep an eye on the pump and all.

I'd go broke then. I tend to try to back into a spot so I don't have to back into the flow of traffic. I swear I drive better in reverse than forward.

Don't know for sure, but I'm pretty sure Cali could be worse. Or maybe I'm just thinking about vehicle mods and guns lol.

The step in the corners isn't a new idea for GM anyways. I remember noticing Avalanches had them, just not as big. I honestly didn't notice those steps on Avalanches until the K2s came out. I don't think they put them on all of the body styles, but I remember it being on at least one. Not a fan of push button, I mean how hard is it to turn the key. Plus I've heard and seen problems with push button. One person on here said they had the keys on them and they were the passenger and the person drove off without the keys. I myself saw where someone didn't shut off their new Cadi ('15 or '16) and even kept it in Drive. It was in a parking garage and it just started to back up by itself and luckily it didn't hit anything. I was going to be nice and put it back in the spot but since the key wasn't close enough, all I could do was put it in park. Some feature seem nice, but no matter how much easier it may be they all still have their own problems. I hope GM doesn't do like Ford did and added a knob to back up a trailer.

The current new platform of the trucks. '14+ 1500s and '15+ HDs. Like GMT 400, GMT 800 and GMT 900.

I'm sure he's referring to the math.....

Personally I think you're wasting money, especially if the oil you get is full synthetic. Full synthetic last 10,000 miles. The reason the oil life is set for 7,500 is because the factory and dealerships use synthetic blend. Regular oil last 5,000, syn blend last 7,500 and full syn last 10,000. But, if it makes you feel better than go for it. Those #s are all city driving also, so if you do a lot of interstate or highway driving then you can go even longer, but I always go by city miles.

Ok 2 questions. Why ask that on a thread about sidesteps when that's a product for doors. 2nd, are you seriously considering paying $800 for something that just allows you to close the door completely the 1st time? Here's an idea, close it hard enough without slamming to shut it all the way. If it doesn't then bump it to close it. Only takes a second to fix a door that doesn't shut all the way. Have fun wasting $800 on a useless product. Or you could send that money to me so I can buy another handgun since you're going to waste it anyways.

Requires 0W20 not 5W30. To the OP, I plan on using Mobil 1 full synthetic with a Mobil 1 Filter when I change the oil. The 3 times before was under the 2 year maintenance so this coming up time will be the first time doing it on this truck.