SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Have you tried to split the difference between the 2 seating positions? I'm about 5'9" on a good day and I never had a problem. The only problem was how good the brakes were and going from my '98 Silverado with sh*tty brakes it looked like I was still in driver's ed for the first week or so of buying my '14 because I would hit the brake too hard lol. I've never had a problem with pedal positions rather it was my current Silverado at the time or a big commercial truck. Part of that could be the fact that I've driven with 2 feet ever since getting my license, even in an auto. And before anybody says anything, I don't hover my left foot over the brake, just keep it to the side to where I just have to rotate on my heel. Same for the gas pedal with me right foot when I have it set to cruise. Much better reaction to the brake in my opinion and never had an issue with riding the brake. Takes less time for me to rotate my left foot on my heel to the brake than having to move my right foot completely from the gas to the brake. Even when I would go between my Silverado and a commercial truck with a manual trans.

I don't think it will be as loud if you do that. My '98 had true duals from the factory, someone replaced the 1 big dual in/dual out factory muffler with 2 Flowmasters and later on I replaced them with 2 Flowmaster Super 40 mufflers because the other ones were in bad shape (looked like it was done when the truck was new and the truck was about 15 years old when I patched up the exhaust). So I had true duals from to back with an X pipe and it wasn't as loud as my '14 with factory single exhaust up to the muffler which is a Super 44 and is single in/dual out. I left everything in front of the muffler alone and just had them replace from the muffler on back and it's very loud and aggressive.

It says "Vette Motor" because he has the 6.2

Ya mine is about the same as "Roidz". I'm guessing it depends on state law. When they asked me the % I wanted the brow I said the darkest I can go that's legal and a guy there said he thought since it's just the strip that it didn't matter how dark it was in NC. So you could put a vinyl strip on the top if you wanted. My OCD wanted it at least as low as the bottom of the black part where the mirror is, but seeing how low it looks I'm fine with it being where it is.

I have to wait a couple days for the glue to set before I can put the windows down or put the ventshades back on. I was going to wait until I can put the ventshades backs on before I take updated pics so I'll take a pic of the brow from the inside and outside.

Finally got the windows tinted. Kept the rear doors and rear window factory. Had them put 20% on the front 2 doors to match the rear and had them put a windshield brow along the top at 5%.

If it was mine, I would swap out the mirror caps and door handles for black ones. Only because there's nothing else that's chrome on the truck. I like some chrome, but not a lot and the chrome needs to be in the right places. Having just the mirror caps and handles chrome doesn't look right to me on a black truck where nothing else is chrome. Just my opinion though.

Haven't had it done yet, but made an appointment at a local shop on Thursday to have my windows tinted. I'm just having the front doors match the rears and having them add a windshield brow.

I would send them back then, even if you get another set of tube bars. Maybe look into some OEM bars like the rectangle ones so it doesn't effect ground clearance that much. Like I said, DeeZee is a cheap brand in my opinion. Their toolboxes might be alright, but their bars as you see aren't that great I don't think.

I have only 3 mounting points on mine and they are bed access so they're longer and my bars have a 465 lb weight limit so having just 3 mounting brackets isn't a bad thing. I do agree though. I'm thinking he might have installed them on the wrong sides but if not then I'd send them back too. From what I've seen, I think anything DeeZee is pretty cheaply made in my opinion.

I wonder if you put the steps on the wrong sides. Try that first because I'm really OCD about my truck and it's no way I would leave the steps like that. It's not even my truck and that bottom pic kind of pisses me off lol. I can't remember if it was you that I was talking to about weight limits, but I did find that my N-fabs have a limit of 465 lbs. Great customer service because somehow the rear plug/cap that covers the rear of the tube came out of the passenger step. They sent me a replacement at no charge and didn't even ask questions. Should be hear Tuesday and thankfully I kept the front guard of the rear wheel wells so nothing is getting up in there like dirt or rain.

Ya just push the post button once and wait a couple seconds and then refresh the page.

I've never cared for TB spacers. If they do help it's not noticeable. I am really wanting to try what Spurshot did though. He went to put a 6.2 TB on his 5.3 and ended up having to buy an intake manifold for a 6.2 since they mounting holes and intake air inlet hole didn't match. He also had to buy a new factory air intake box made for the 6.2, but I won't have to do that being that I have the Airaid MIT tube, but I will need to get a new adaptor for the 6.2 TB so I would have to call Airaid or something. I had actually thought about the 6.2 TB earlier in the day of the same day that he posted that thread. I was really hoping that they used the same intake manifold and maybe the air inlet hole was the same in both manifolds where maybe the hole in all of them was made for the 6.2 TB with the 5.3 TB just covering the inlet hole a little. He said it seems like the throttle response is better where he doesn't have to give it as much throttle it seems. So I'd much rather upgrade the TB to the 6.2 TB and may do it in the future.

I hope you meant smuggle, not snuggle like you're sleeping with it until the intake kit comes in lol.

I used CRC GDI IVD intake cleaner. Got it from Autozone and it says on the can to do it every 10,000 miles. http://crcindustries.com/auto/intake-valve-cleaner.php Oh and just push the post button once.

Looks cool, but I can only think about always needing a deep socket just to install and uninstall them. So I can only imagine the shape they will be in after even s short time of just rotating them. Especially if you go to a shop where they're going to be using air impact wrenches.

I'm thinking it was just a freak thing and probably won't happen again. I've hit ruts pretty hard on gravel roads in my '14 and haven't had an issue.

Like I said, the N-fabs are more sturdy when talking about stepping on them. My best friend that I mentioned knows for a fact since he's 400 lbs lol. The first time he used the N-fabs after I had them installed he said that they seem more sturdy. I will admit though that these N-fabs and basically any steps with the drop down hoops seem to be a little lower and stick out a little further than regular 3"+ round or oval steps. Especially being that my truck isn't even leveled. But, I don't go mudding or off-road in this truck like I did in my 98 so I'm not too worried. Especially since as I said before, that I banged them on a concrete curb a couple times and didn't damage them at all, just scuffed up the powdercoat. Also my best friend had one of the pads come off and I won't have that problem with my N-fabs since the stepping pads are metal that's welded to the hoops lol. I have nothing against tube steps and I'm not the type to tell someone how to spend their money. I'm just glad I tried these N-fabs out because I was about to get 3" tube steps like what was on my 98. I know you said you'll get the AMP steps down the road and I've read that some people think they give pretty good rocker protection. Rather it would be better than hoop steps like my N-fabs, I don't know.

Ever since getting Weston 3" steps on my '98 and my best friend having the same steps on his '06 Sierra I will never get big steps like that. His are all dented (not the only steps of that design that are dented or bent) and my N-fabs on my '14 are more sturdy than both steps. When I say sturdy I mean both stepping on and handling abuse. I've slammed the N-fabs twice against concrete and all it did was scuff up the powdercoat on the bottom which isn't a big deal. So now I'll always get steps with small diameter tubing and not big diameter of 3" or bigger steps that have thing walls. The N-fabs being small diameter and having the main bar that goes right along the rockers that the hoops come off of seem to protect the rockers a lot better also.

Ya I know, just didn't think it would be 500 miles for them and I believe when the manual mentioned the 500 mile break-in that it only mentions the engine.

Ya after reading that I wondered if the 500 mile first oil change was anything to do with the external oil tank and not the conventional oil pan. The way I figure is that if GM thought any vehicle would need a 500 mile oil change for engine break in then they'd make sure to put it out there or there would be warranty fixes. As far as I know the engines already had an initial break in before installing and the 500 miles that the manual said that is the break-in period is breaking it in during normal use since you have to actually drive it to really break it in. I could be wrong though. All it said was basically no interstate driving or long drives for the first 500 miles which is why I think the initial break-in was already done. I still didn't follow it because after only a couple hundred miles I went on a 400 mile trip to the beach (150 each way and then 100 local driving once I got there). Haven't had any issues "yet" after 14,000 miles so I doubt that really did anything to it.

5,000 for conventional, 7,500 for synthetic blend and 10,000 for full synthetic. This is for all city driving so you can technically go an extra 1-2,000 if you do a lot of interstate driving but I still go by those #s so it's no guess work or hoping. Of course this is on a vehicle that is driven daily or at least 2-3 times a week so it's used regularly. For something that's driven once a week or less then I say about 6 months personally no matter the miles.

Too be honest, I haven't even looked into weight limit. MY best friend is 400 lbs. My 3" tube Westons on my old '98 and also his '06 Sierra held/hold his weight just fine and so far the N-fabs on my '14 have held up great with him and he usually gets in the truck at least once a week.

Well maybe he's like me and likes actual tire sidewall on a truck. Whenever I get new rims I plan on keeping it at 18s. I don't even like low pros on a car.

You haven't heard the drone because you still have the flapper valve. If you remove it then you'll get a drone. The more aggressive and louder the exhaust is without the valve the more drone you'll hear.