So far, I've owned the truck for 63 days and it just completed its 49th day in service. Vibration has gotten better from the countless road force balances and but now it's in the steering wheel where I feel it the most. I am starting to think that the Z71suspension and tire package is contributing to alot of what I am feeling. Regardless, swallow your pride and buy something else. I still haven't washed my truck once because I haven't had it in my possession long enough.
Ericruiz911 started following Time to upgrade the sound system again, Shake or Vibration Issues, 2014+ K2XX - Center Console Swap / Retrofit - Plug and Play Harness! and and 5 others
Figured I would post here in case anyone was wondering whether or not the '18 trucks had the issue or not. Bought my truck on July 27th. It's a 2018 1500 LT Z71 with 18" wheels,6 speed and 3.42 rear end. My previous truck never had the shake even running a 7 inch lift and 35's and now I have a brand new $50k truck that rides worse than my lifted truck. Drove the truck on the highway 4 days later and there was a vibration that felt like an out of balance tire. Called dealership and they said put 500 miles on it and then take it in because it could be flat spots. Figured it was probably the tires because I had been working the deal on this exact truck for over a month so it had been there for a bit. Took it in, they did a road force balance and said technician didn't feel vibrations. Picked it up and it actually feels worse so now it begins. Seriously regretting going back into a silverado after the issues on my '14 but that's my fault for not liking other trucks. Do anyways, just using this to document a bit because I'm not dealing with this by any means and I won't take it from the dealership until it is fixed. Feels like mine is milder than others have experienced but it is so annoying that I end up driving with the radio off trying to pinpoint where it's coming from. Sucks when I drive 100 miles a day on highway and cruise between 70 and 85, right where it shakes. Attached some videos below of my truck.
Ericruiz911 replied to pgamboa's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsThanks Phil. Referred to that post yesterday and sent it over to the dealer today for them to cross reference it off an LTZ Z71 vin on their lot just to make sure. Really helpful info here!
Ericruiz911 replied to pgamboa's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsLet me know once you get the part numbers sorted out. Also have a 2018 LT Z71 with Jet Black leather and want to get a center console ordered for it. Haven't had time to sit at a dealership and go over numbers with the parts guy and descriptions online are vague.
I went with PowerStop Z36 Truck & Tow pads with Centric rotors and ATE Type 200 brake fluid. Love the combination and have been very happy with it. Think it only set me back under $300 IIRC. Also, I had changed them out because my rotors were beyond warped. So far, not a single vibration ad I have over 20K really hard miles on them.
Dam, that harness would have been convenient lol. I got a new DSP and was able to delay remote signal out so no more loud door chimes unless passenger forgets to put on their seat belt.
The Bose system utilizes a harness so that is out of the question. The less efficient a speaker is, the more power that is needed to bring it out. Think of it as wasted energy. Add a 4 channel amp and you should be fine. If you will be changing the dash speakers, then that will be something you may want to take into consideration when choosing a 4 channel or 6 channel amp. Get an amp that allows speaker-level inputs (aka High-level inputs) and that should be it. Adding a subwoofer or other components ultimately determines what your setup will consist of but if you just want to change door speakers, then just pick up a 4 channel amp and call it a day. Precision Power makes get budget amps, fyi. Try and match your speaker RMS to the amps RMS (make sure you look at the correct resistance of the speakers and the RMS rating for that ohm on the amp). Hope this helps.
Does anyone know how to open the rear view mirror by any chance? The mirror is next on my list for noises I am trying to rid myself from and don't want to break it. For those of you wondering, it is not the bracket vibrating, it is the module inside or the housing making contact with each other. It has gotten worse over time due to the subs being in the truck for nearly two years and it has become audible at half volume so it's got to go.
Nothing wrong with it at all. Noise floor is a little high because of our head unit output voltage but other than that, it is great. I am upgrading to the Mosconi 6to8 Aerospace as soon as I sell this as I have new speakers going in as well as finalizing the sound deadening and prefers Mosconi's EQ adjustments as there is only a 0.1 limit on range where the Helix has a limit of 8 (i may be wrong on this) and it makes it a bit harder. Will also be utilizing Mosconi's Bluetooth adapter to bypass the trucks analog lines and automatically switches between its own Bluetooth adapter and the truck when I get a call so that is the route I am going instead of changing the head unit. Not sure what route you are looking to go but I will have a couple sets of tweeters (some NIB) and a couple sets of wideband drivers for the dash up for sale this weekend once I get some time.
For anyone interested and willing to make them fit in the dash, these have been absolutely phenomenal and I highly recommend them. They are on sale now for $135. Audible Physics AR3-A 3" Wideband Driver
Your truck died and your radio did not want to power back on and now you have issues with lights so that's why I thought it could have been a battery. I had radio issues when my battery was on its way out. If you think it's just an issue with your lights, grab a multimeter and check voltage across the connections in your lights starting from that closest to the battery. Is your truck cranking slow this morning?
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