fivepnt0

After collecting every bit of info on the internet I could round up. I did this mod to my 2007 Avalanche LT-3 I was surprised to find the vehicle side green connector already on my vehicle. More on that later. I did not disconnect my battery or pull any fuses. Make sure the wheels and wheel itself are in the straight, 12 o'clock position. Use the new wheel to reference how the airbag clips work. Use a round punch, or Allen wrench to depress the clips. You can do one at a time if you don't let the first one clip back in while doing the second. Be very careful disconnecting and connecting the airbag. DO NOT USE METAL PICK TOOLS to remove the clips, obviously. Treat the airbag like a carton of eggs, not a live grenade. Everybody makes it sound like it's going to kill you or randomly go off. The only chances of that is shorting out wires or plugging the wrong connector in. They are color coded. Verify the two connectors on the new and old are identical before even touching them. There are two styles and I do not know which year it changed. You do not need a steering wheel puller. It's not pressed on with a press, just gets compressed by the nut. I had a steering wheel nut socket so I can't tell you the exact size. Remove the nut, then thread it back on a solid 2-3 threads. Grab both sides of the wheel, push on one side and pull on the other and alternate sides while pulling toward you. Within 3-4 rocks back n forth it will be loose. The nut keeps you from hitting yourself in the face when it comes loose. Also not to rip out the wires. Remove the tilt lever with a plastic pry tool. It just pops straight out, no bolts. Remove top and bottom shroud, gently unless you have a new one as I did. I changed the shifter boot, shroud, ignition tumbler, and tilt lever because they were worn and cheap to replace. Now's the time. Also have some wipes on hand because everything's dirty under there. Disconnect the connectors and remove the SIR coil. DO NOT spin or turn it. Tape it together and it could be sold or saved. Put the new coil on, route the cables. Break the alignment tab off if your all lined up and sure. Put the shrouds back on. Install the wheel. Verify all plugs are in the correct place. Line the keyway up and tighten the steering nut. I had the green plug on the vehicle side, it didn't work. Maybe that's why everybody was screaming OMG you have to program the BCM. Who knows. I left the vehicle side green plug and cut the SIR coil connector off, leaving the most wire possible. Find yourself a good clean ground under the dash. Lots of choice. Find a good source for 12v ignition, not ACC or 12V battery. Plenty of choices. There is somebody on here selling a pigtail for the Silverado, I didn't have time to wait for it but I would have spent the 12 or $25 he wanted for either just to save from searching. There is a fuse box by your left foot, or get the fuse pigtail (AutoZone or Advanced has them) for the side fuse panel behind the driver door. Solder and heat shrink your wires, don't be lazy and butt connector or spade this stuff. They fail after a while. As far as testing the wheel, I kept reading, it has to have a resistance or it's broke. I have access to dozens of multimeters, from $5 to $6,000. Not one of these read the resistance of the heater coil. I was worried my eBay find was junk, it was fine. The only real way to know is get it all hooked up with a new SIR coil. You can power it from 12v right to the green connector, not sure if this is before or after the switch. My old wheel leather was worn, the button covers had half the paint missing. The buttons were in good shape. I got a wheel from a 2014 Tahoe, no wood insert. The backlight is green like mine and the button covers were brushed and in perfect condition. These alone are $75 from a dealer. I paid $205 for my heated wheel, all the buttons and the two brushed covers. $140 for the new SIR coil, don't mess with a used one. So $345 I have a heated wheel. I cant paint the two old covers and sell my old wheel and coil for around $200 probably. So really this is a great upgrade. The wheel starts heating up in about 20-30 seconds. Gets pretty hot, then the steel core of the wheel starts to soak up the heat, within a few minutes drive the whole thing is toasty and I usually turn it off. But damn is it nice to have after pumping gas with a -35 wind-chill, get in and grab a warm wheel. Hope this further helps any input or worries anyone had with this project. I had all intensions of doing a pic by pic demo, but it was cold out and I was in a hurry. The ones at the beginning of this post work just fine. 07-13 Chevrolet GMC Cadillac Silverado Sierra Clock Spring SIR Coil GM 25966964 2014 TAHOE