I'm glad you asked. Yes, I did do that but next rain we had it was leaking again. My head was spinning cause i knew i had sealed it. I triple checked to make sure it wasn't the sunroof, 3rd brake light, or the windshield. So I went on amazon and purchase a new antenna ACDelco 84346784 GM Original Equipment GPS Navigation System Antenna. The new antenna will have weeping hole in the front, as opposed to the old one which is in the back of the antenna. As per removing it, there are a few youtube videos of others doing the replacement you might want to check out. HOW TO Fix Replace chevy shark fin OnStar antenna water leak Chevy GM GMC Cadillac Remove the 3 screws from the visor and the single screw from the visor clip. then remove the two bolts from the handle (Oh-shit handle). The take the A-column off, I removed mine because if kept getting in the way. You can then pull the headliner down just enough to get your hand in there to turn a sockett 10ml. By accident, one cables from the headliner running down the A-column came unglued, I'm glad it did because if was a PIA.. I would recommend prying it off so you drop the headliner a little more. Anywho... We just had a pretty good rain and no leaks. Just as a precaution, I added a little clear silicone around the perimeter after I had it installed. Use some painters tape. Good luck
I'd also like to point out that its unlikely your windshield is the source of the leak. You would have noticed a faulty windshield leak long before and certainly right after it was installed. I have had my windshield replaced and I also was suspect to this being the possible cause. But Its been 3 years since it was replaced and would have certainly noticed a leak long before now, especially in my rain soak region of the U.S. Also, not as prevalent as the shark-fin antenna leak, but the 3rd brake light has also been talked a lot about from other members as a possible leaky source...food for thought
This is just a thought. I'm fresh off the leaky shark fin antenna problem. Dealer wanted $450 to replace it. I honestly contemplated karate chopping him in the throat. Anywho, all that to say... I did the repair myself and reused the OEM shark-fin since I was fortunate enough not have any GPS issues yet. One thing I'll point out is this, don't get to aggressive when tightening down the bolt under the antenna because you could actually end up creating a divot in the roof, thus voiding the curved design of the antenna seal to not seat correctly to the curvature of the roof. This would obviously introduce more water and drive you nuts thinking you've sealed it really good and tightened it down real tight. Take off your antenna and start over. Be sure to remove all the gunk/silicon/adhesive, use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to clean any residue before you reseat the antenna. Look for any kinks or divots in the roof from it being over tightened. Next, use a very small amount of windshield adhesive on antenna seal. If you're putting adhesive or sealant on the perimeter of the antenna then you also will need to apply an equal amount onto the seal that covers the hole. Once you have equal amounts of adhesive underneath, slowly set it down in its final resting place being cautious not to allow it to slip or move around. Before you tighten the bolt from underneath, put a very small dab of blue loctite on the threads to prevent the antenna from loosening down the road... don't forget, all cars vibrate and overtime bolts will loosen, especially the ones that can't be tightened down to much (the further away a bolt is from the vibration source, the greater the vibration.) When you do tighten down the bolt, just be cautious not to overtighten. You can this by how much adhesive is being squeezed out. NOTE: If by chance you had over tightened the bolt during the first repair and it did create a kink in roof, its very likely for the kink to happen again because there is now a weakness in the metal. Just go slow and watch the antenna seal as you tighten the bolt down. Wash rinse repeat for any rooftop device that's bolted through the metal. Afterthought, you might want to skip the loctite step until later. Put the bolt in and just tighten it so it's snug. Let the adhesive dry for several hours. then, go back and carefully remove the bolt trying your best not to move the antenna around breaking the bond. Now you can add the loctite to the bolt and continue from there. This step might create less adhesive bleed. Anywho...Just my thoughts.
This leak is now happening to my truck. I'm about to dive into it and fix it. Highly doubt GM will honor any type of assistance on this leak (out of warranty). When you have a water leak from rain or melting snow it has the potential to damage all sorts of electronic components that could ultimately play a major role toward the safety of the vehicles occupants, especially if water is leaking down the A-pillar to the floor board. An example would be if the water leak shorted out the fuse panel, maybe your windshield wipers go out in a downpour on the interstate. It all depends on how your truck was parked when the leak is happening. Many more examples like this are possible. Our Hyundai Santa Fe had a recall for a water leak that leaked into the headlight housing, the concern was it could short your lights while driving at night. I would think that the potential for a water leak on the interior of the Silverado/Sierra cabin would be a much more serious safety concern than what had been recalled for our Hyundai? I have underwear that are older than my truck is. You would think that the antenna/sunroof/3rd brake light seal would hold up better than 4 years? Anywho...chalk this up with the vacuum pump, condenser, and the shaking, (Insert) (Insert). My concern now is this. Say I fix this leak myself, and several weeks /months down the road I start having problems with my electronics from the oxidation caused by this leak. As I'm writing this right now, I'm starting to have really bad anxiety thinking of the potential problems this water leak is having on the components behind the steering column and dash. Just because we have water on the floor board, doesn't necessarily mean that all of the water has piled there. There's probably little puddles everywhere in the little crevasses behind the column and down to the carpet slowly oxidizing the wires and such... and you won't know this until several months down the road on a sunny day driving on the interstate with your wife and kids in the truck and suddenly your power steering goes out, other electronics inside start flashing in and out, and your truck just shuts down. While I'm a pretty avid DIY'er, I don't have the time or experience to take apart the entire dash to check for water damage. And being that it's out of warranty, there's no way I'm going to pay GM/dealership $3000 (hours of labor) to do this either. Taking into the dealership may fix your leak, but they sure as heck are not going to clean out all the wet electronics nor will they notice oxidation from the leak because it hasn't happened yet. So... what to do? (cough cough..which by the way I'm starting to see a lot of posts about electronics in the trucks crapping out.) GM will never allow these two issues be to be a cause and effect...we can shuffle that malarkey right into the wood chipper now. SMH. I love my truck, but sometimes I feel like we're all being taken for a ride, potentially a dangerous one. "...heartless, fat-ass, bug-eyed, stiff-legged, spotty-lipped, worm-headed sack of monkey shit he is! Hallelujah! Holy sh!t! Where’s the Tylenol? -Griswold
Yeah, 70 was the max. It was much better at 60. The difference, like you said, was huge. 1st time, I'm learning. Thanks
It makes total sense now. It was certain confusion on my part. Honestly, I never knew those things were called "Slide Ins" but rather "Truck campers". You're right, with all the verbiage and cross use of the words "camper", Camper Trailer, RV, Toy Hauler, ...ect it has been a little confusing.
Well, that would clear up a lot. lol That thought never even dawned on me. Thanks for clearing that up!
Took the family camping over the weekend using the In-Laws camper trailer and we had a blast. I feel the truck did a good job but I certainly felt the weight being towed while traveling 70mph on the interstate. Gas mileage was not good 8/9MPG. My question: The trailer I pulled was about 27ft, tip2tail with a GVWR of 7600lbs. It does not have a slide In/Out. However, I'm curious why our trucks (maybe just mine) has sticker in the glove box indicating not to tow a camper with a "Slide In"? Is it because of weight or balancing concerns? Does anyone here tow a camper with a Slide In/Out feature? We are contemplating getting a trailer and would like to know the thoughts of the folks here regarding campers with Slide Ins. Would it be safe to pull one as long as total load doesn't exceed the towing capacity? Does everyone that owns a 5.3L 4x4 have this sticker in the glove box? Thanks ALL I've added some pictures below.
Did you ever experience the vibration "Chevy Shake"? Nevermind....just realized the truck in the video was an '07
Didn't mean to confuse you there. Also, I never mentioned anything about a line from the intake to the booster. I understand that the brakes don't pull from the engine, per se. However, the order of operations for brake pressure (atmospheric) is reliant upon the engines ability to spin the vacuum pump belt which in turn supplies/creates negative pressure within your booster Hence the reason why the brakes are failing at low or at idol speeds. If you were to put your vehicle in neutral and rev the engine, you will gain more negative pressure build up in your brake booster because the RPMs spin the vacuum belt faster thus creating negative pressure and the atmospheric pressure from pushing on your brake pedal will again feel soft. But no one is going to throw their truck into neutral while experiencing this. All this to say, I'm still in the dark as to how a programming will fix the vacuum pumps ability to keep a constant negative pressure without affecting the engine idle speed.
I'm not a certified mechanic nor have I stayed in any Holiday Inn Express hotels lately. That said, yes. The mechanical vacuum pumps sole purpose is to pick up the slack when your engine is operating in V4 mode because the engine can't sufficiently supply enough vacuum pressure to the brakes. I'm just guessing on this but, if you've deleted AFM or your vehicle doesn't have this feature than I would suspect you are less susceptible to encounter the "hard brake assist" issue.
SO last year I received a new replacement Vacuum pump from a recall. Now, I/we get a another recall regarding vacuum pressure for braking. This recall is meant to reprogram? I don't like hearing those words...reprogram. The honest reason that the vacuum pressure is lost is because of the cheap pump. The "Hard-To-Brake" situation is most likely felt by those that have Eco (4 cylinder). When your vehicle is in 4 cylinder mode it doesn't create enough power to boost your brakes aided by the vacuum pump. By doing just a reprogram, they're not actually fixing the problem. All they are doing is lowering the digital indicator that alerts the driver about a "Brake Assist Warning" that we all see on the DIC. 2014 - Current GMC / Chevrolet : Hard Brake Pedal
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