BrianBrianBrian
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Final verdict: Brake drag culprit was caused by a leaking master cylinder that eventually compromised the brake booster. Fluid from the Master Cylinder was slowly leaking into the brake booster for quite some time. Tech said about a quart was drained from the booster. I asked how long this was going on and the answer was approx. 3 years~? Anywho, thank you to everyone that helped
- 45 replies
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- brake booster
- vacuum pump
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I am experiencing this exact scenario. Do you happen to have any examples I can present to the dealership. They are replacing the Vacuum Pump for the second time (under the recall warranty, again) yet, this time my Booster has oil in it and they are charging me to replace the Brake booster and the Master Cylinder. It obvious this is a cause and effect thing. Brake Drag --- Booster and Master Cylinder have an internal failure.
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You had said the answer right out the gate! Thanks man
- 45 replies
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- brake booster
- vacuum pump
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Is the poppet valve part of the Brake Booster? As in, will it get replaced when they replace the BB.
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Thank you for taking the time to aid in my troubles! I just got back from the dealership and I think you got your answer into the voting booth just in time to win the prize, lol. Sorry, fresh out of prizes after the cost of this roller coaster. Here is what they had to say: They are going to replace the MC and the Brake Booster. Also they are going to replace the Vacuum pump + Belt (for the 2nd time) and get it covered under the recall (again). Technician drove it and (thankfully)experienced the brake drag on the test drive. He opened the hood and disconnected the vacuum hose to the brake booster. While this obviously made braking a harder, the brake drag was gone and he was able to get the truck back to the dealership. I was told that they also found Hydro fluid in the booster. So that's all I've been given... They didn't really tell me what the exact failure point was other than its somewhere between the Vacuum pump and the MC. Thus, replace it all and it should be fixed. Should I be asking more questions to the dealership about this problem, or it is what is? I'll give another report back for the purpose of this thread after I get it home. Thank you to everyone here that helped. oh If anyone is curious, $1,333
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I thought brake booster was only to assist in the pedal not restrict it from releasing? I did have the truck serviced for the Vacuum Pump thing back in 2019. They replaced both the pump and the belt. I am aware of a safety recall Part 573 Safety Recall Report There are several relatable issues that I'm having and what this recall addresses, however per the recall it only pertains to trucks with 3.08 ratio. Mine is not. But who knows at this point
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Well... I'm officially tapping out! I've replaced the brake pedal sensor switch, Both left and right Wheel hub assembly, rotors, pads, calipers, and complete flush. Still have this damn issue. I just came across this post today and his scenario is damn near an exact as to what I'm experiencing. READ THIS POST I dropped off the truck yesterday, we'll see what the technicians find. &*()#*#*@)( !!!
- 45 replies
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- brake booster
- vacuum pump
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Man... I am so happy to have found your post. I've been trying to solve this exact problem for the past month. This was my post <--- After replacing the Brake pedal sensor switch, Front: Wheel hub Assembly, Rotors, Brake Pads, Calipers, and I even replaced the trailer brake module for the cherry on top. And just like you, the damn brake drag is still there. I've been trying to explain this to everyone and it feels like I'm the only one with this problem until I read your post. I've only been able to drive locally before it gets so bad that it almost seizes. Like you, no codes have been thrown that I can relate to the issue. The next step for me was to replace the brake hoses and then the MC. But since you mentioned you performed these steps I'll skip it and put the $$ towards the GM technicians. I just dropped her off yesterday and the guy said he doesn't seem to think its a brake problem, but more likely an electrical problem. Said they'll need the truck for a few days to comb through the wires...(sounds cheap, gulp) This is old post but hopefully you can share your memory of the final fix?
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Does this sound like bearings? VID20240111163916.mp4
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VID20240111162224.mp4 VID20240111162303.mp4
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Oddly enough, pulling over and pumping brakes and putting it reverse back into drive seems to temporarily get me back on the road. After speaking with a mechanic friend he sends to think it might be wheel bearing issues. I just put it up on Jack stands and when I try spinning the front wheels, I don't get a full rotation freely after letting go. I don't have a lift or after market wheels. I do have slight larger tires than factory (33x12.50 R20). I do tend drive in AWD from time to time. So maybe the bearings are shot? I would've thought bad bearings would've thrown a code or something. To answer your question, oddly enough, there is no pulling to either side. If not the bearings... My new conspiracy might be the torque converter. But again, that would most certainly throw a code or two given the outcome
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Yes. I've tried turning off the grade braking, the stabilitrak, traction control, mashing the P-Brake. None of these options have worked unfortunately
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I'm at the point to where I'm about to just replace the brake, calipers and rotors as a set. If that doesn't fix the problem then I'll start diagnosing brake booster and the master solenoid ect..
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