You take the thermostat housing right off. I would say about one ounce of fluid comes out. It requires a 13mm wrench or socket, pliers, and a good snap ring tool. I used the the interchangeable snap ring head to remove the C clips for the cooler lines. A pick would have been better suited. I brought the thermostat inside to do the flip as it can be a little easier than under the truck haha
Thank you very much for the reply. So I ended up finding a similar video and got my "pill flipped". Everything is back together and my trans now runs between 135°-150°. Thank you all for your suggestions. Sometimes I forget how helpful this forum can be. ??
I've always thought a flush was a last resort, but it's what the dealership wanted to do and I know nothing about trans. I saw a few videos about the delete and that is very doable. I think I saw that the new lines come with a new thermostat? I might start with the thermo delete and go from there. If anything I will do a de-grease, brake cleaner/air compressor clean out of those lines unless it isn't advised. Thank you!
The tech said that he didn't notice any metal shavings in the oil pan. The trans operation has been very consistent through this all except for a one minute duration of going through town. At about 25 mph it didn't want to shift down. Other than that the trans has been acting as normal. It has always had a slight slip here and there when going into third gear.
I'll get right to it. I keep an eye on my trans fluid temp, and about a week ago I noticed my temps going past 210°. I was seeing 235°-237° consistently. I brought it to a trusted dealership and they confirmed a cold trans return line. Fluid was dirty and the flush machine confirmed some blockage. So the dealership flushed until the flow was within spec, replaced fluid and filter and I was on my way. The trans temp got up to 234° on my way home testing it out. What're y'alls thoughts? I'm friends with the tech that worked on it and he seems to believe I might have a torque converter issue. Thanks in advance for the help and advice.
A few months ago I got 4.10 gears put into my rig. Everything seemed great until I put it in 4WD and noticed a howl/vibration above 30ish MPH while coasting/steady speed or decelerating. While the gears are under load everything feels and sounds fine. Do the gears just need to be broken in? That's what I thought at first and have expected the issue to go away. Well it hasn't. I changed the fluid and it was very Metallicy. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what's going on with the ol' girl?
Many would suggest Magnusson or Whipple. I've heard something about Hennessey putting together a nice kit but it costs a pretty penny. What will help you out a lot is using the forum search. You can find a lot of information about superchargers and the various ones used by forum members. That alone may bring you to a decision.
I appreciate the replies guys. I will be sticking with headers to a catted y-pipe. Now all I need to do is swallow the lump in my throat and fork up the $1700 for the pair....unless there's someplace with a better price I don't know about?? Other than the manufacturer website itself.
So I've done some research on the forum and am looking for some advice. I'm planning to put ARH 1-3/4"and catted Y-pipe on my 14' Sierra 5.3. Most likely looking into magnaflow for a deeper roar. A BlackBear Autocal will be associating the system(bye bye warranty with only 20k miles on!). I currently just have a 3rd cat-back straight pipe y-piped to dual angled rear exits. I've been very interested in making the system true dual. If I were to go the true dual route would the muffle shop have to remove the y-pipe after the cats and fabricate the true duals from there? Or is there a catted option that's not y-piped? Another question. Should I even go true dual? I'm looking for the most performance. If I'm better off with the catted y-pipe to the dual exits than so be it, but if true dual will bump up my numbers than I'm all for it. I have a feeling that true dual might be too much flow therefore I'm loosing the low end torque I'm looking for. Thank you for any input.
Cut off your exhaust system after your third cat, and have a shop whip up a dual out the back system. It sounds beautiful, and makes you wet when you get on the throttle. Obnoxious? nah. V8 throaty tone with some balls? yeah. I personally wouldn't go any other route.
does anyone know the bolt size?
Here is some food for thought. http://www.magnusonproducts.com/t-What-you-should-know-before-you-buy-a-supercharger.aspx
Whipple claims to give you 150 RWHP/TQ for $6500 while Magnuson gives you 105 RWHP/TQ for $5,995. Why wouldn't you go with the Whipple? Does anyone have a reason disclaiming Whipple of their drastic increase in HP/TQ? It seems like a no brainer. I also noticed the Whipple having a huge edge on the Magnuson according to their web page dynos. Is a Whipple healthy for a stock engine? So many questions. Maybe someone can chime in.
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