Maine-iac

You take the thermostat housing right off. I would say about one ounce of fluid comes out. It requires a 13mm wrench or socket, pliers, and a good snap ring tool. I used the the interchangeable snap ring head to remove the C clips for the cooler lines. A pick would have been better suited. I brought the thermostat inside to do the flip as it can be a little easier than under the truck haha

Thank you very much for the reply. So I ended up finding a similar video and got my "pill flipped". Everything is back together and my trans now runs between 135°-150°. Thank you all for your suggestions. Sometimes I forget how helpful this forum can be. ??

What exactly does flip the pill mean? Am I literally flipping part of the thermostat, or am I removing the springs etc.?

I've always thought a flush was a last resort, but it's what the dealership wanted to do and I know nothing about trans. I saw a few videos about the delete and that is very doable. I think I saw that the new lines come with a new thermostat? I might start with the thermo delete and go from there. If anything I will do a de-grease, brake cleaner/air compressor clean out of those lines unless it isn't advised. Thank you!

The tech said that he didn't notice any metal shavings in the oil pan. The trans operation has been very consistent through this all except for a one minute duration of going through town. At about 25 mph it didn't want to shift down. Other than that the trans has been acting as normal. It has always had a slight slip here and there when going into third gear.

I'll get right to it. I keep an eye on my trans fluid temp, and about a week ago I noticed my temps going past 210°. I was seeing 235°-237° consistently. I brought it to a trusted dealership and they confirmed a cold trans return line. Fluid was dirty and the flush machine confirmed some blockage. So the dealership flushed until the flow was within spec, replaced fluid and filter and I was on my way. The trans temp got up to 234° on my way home testing it out. What're y'alls thoughts? I'm friends with the tech that worked on it and he seems to believe I might have a torque converter issue. Thanks in advance for the help and advice.

if I had a 35w kit, could I just swap out ballasts to switch to a 55w kit? Or what does it entail.

Just had to post a few pics! This is after just 290miles....wow. I don't want to know what it looks like inside my intake

The line next to the throttle body goes to the top fitting of the can, and the line to the valve cover comes from the fitting on the side. Gases are pushed from the valley of the motor (fitting next to the throttle body), and are pushed through your catch can. The air then travels out the side fitting of your can into the valve cover/intake fitting.

Just from what I have seen and heard from others on here you do not need the check valve.

sounds good! That's what I ended up doing. I just didn't have the patients to wait for a response. And what about the filter material? Steel wool or no?

I have decided to go with the Elite catch Can. I just have a few questions. What type of bracket would I need/choose for a spare battery box area mount when ordering off their website? and does it require me purchasing steel wool? I Cant remember if it does or not. Thanks in advance.

I used the 4700uF caps from DDM that came with the kit and I haven't had any issues thus far. I personally would recommend getting them. That way you cant go wrong.

Hey all. I am new one here but have been snooping around a lot. A few weeks back I did the DDM Tuning 35w 5000k HID upgrade. I had to splice in the capacitors, but that was the hardest part. Everything went together well and everything is working well....BUT.... I have one light that appears to have a blue hue to it (drivers right side) and the other that appears to be white (drivers left side). Does anyone with experience with these things tell me what's going on? I am hoping it is two different bulbs. I haven't got around to trouble shooting the bulb/ballast/ harness. Thanks guys.