smooth68

Ok, yep that's exactly how I have mine right now. The thing I haven't really done is switch 6 down for a couple days to see how the 12db slope sounds compared to the 24db. Oh and someone did mention trying to swap the amp input left/right to see if phase made any difference but I haven't tried that either.

Awesome! Thanks for the door panel pics! Glad you're happy with the sub...its not breaking windows but yah it sounds pretty dang good! Getting to those sub wires was the toughest part no doubt! I put my bass knob in the same place, just on the left side more. Did you adjust the amp dip switches any?

where did you mount the tweeter for the rear components you installed?

I always thought/heard it was tough to swap Bose door speakers and you replaced the door speakers with JL Audio components? Can you post up the model numbers you used? I'm pretty please with everything overall, but the rear doors could definitely be better!

There’s a place on the amp for it

Oh, ok I was just wondering since you said you were replacing the door speakers an I was thinking the Bose speakers weren't normal 4 ohm car audio type. Have you installed them yet? I've had my Kicker sub installed for about a month now, tapped the bose sub leads, and running a bass knob. I'm more that happy with the results. Very impressive for what it is.

You are non-Bose I take it? I'm almost positive the front door speakers are full range, but also just a single channel.

Sounds good, Any particular part number? And was it clamped or welded in place?

I’m in the same boat and trying to decide if I want to remove the front bracket or just buy a sports/car related plate and install. Here is the look of push pins from another owner

That’s is great info but crazy they charge for that.

Oh cool…and I wasn’t thinking I guess but since you don’t have the factory sub you can’t connect to those leads, which is what I did. Not sure if the non-Bose kit connects to the right front leads but the seems like it would want a signal from both channels. The flextime app might provide some decent options.

Hey Nick, I have a 2022 TB LT and installed the kit for Bose and I'm really impressed with it! Couple of questions, did you also install a bass knob? And where did you connect your amp input leads?

My wife got me part #19417164 for Christmas and I installed it in my 2022 Silverado TB LT w/Bose. I connected the amp input leads to the factory Bose sub leads, installed a remote bass knob, and adjusted the dip switches to my preference. For the money, appearance, and sound quality I am very happy with the setup. Pros: Ease of install Custom designed for the Silverado Crew Cab Dual Voice Coil Sub Sub, enclosure, amp, wiring kit all in one kit Plug and Play other than the amp input leads Sounds great, nice strong solid bass but not going to set any SPL records NO stealership required Cons: Amp adjustment dip switches require the amp to be removed every time you want to make a change The remote knob is a definite must have, should have been part of the kit imo Bass can get a little "boomy" at times Not really an issue from this sub, but the mids can be a little low on some songs Would be nice to have a couple of amp upgrade options that are plug and play

Hey Garrett, I really like the painted look and would do the same...would you mind taking a side profile shot of your truck with the scoop installed?

There is info in the installation guide for leaving places for water drain in the front that I think would help avoid any issues.

Sorry all...I've read through these post and I'm still not seeing where anyone has listed the factory sub wires to use when connecting the Kicker sub for alternate wiring. Can anyone help an old rocker out with this info? Much appreciated! Update So after reading through this one more time I believe I'm on the right track now, lol!