Jeep_Comanche17

So just picked up a very nice Chevy Tahoe to fix up and get running. It is a GMT-400 platform truck, manufacture date is 08/99, so one of the last OBS Tahoes. One of the issues that needs addressed is the ignition tumbler. apparently the tumblers fell thus the key not being able to go back in. so he removed the column and stopped there. now, as I understand, the key has to be in the ignition tumbler in order to remove it from the column. so im thinking it just going to be easier to install a complete junkyard column. my main concern is anti-theft crap. I know it has caused several guy on here major headaches, and I definitely don't need that. so what would be the best way to go about fixing this? also how hard is it to replace valve lifters? previous owner said they might be starting to collapse. this is a 5.7L vortec auto Z71 4x4 fully loaded truck. thanks!

had an s-10 pickup that did this, sprayed the crap out of it with pb blaster then moved the latch around, never had an issue with it after that.

I do know the 6.5L didn't have the best pump in the world. biggest reason for that was the PMD being located right in on the side of the pump exposed to lots of heat. this one has the pmd relocation kit though so I don't think that's the issue. and with the motor being only 100k I find it hard to believe pump is junk. I am going to college for diesel tech rn and by what ive heard at the shop is the ecm on early OBDII trucks (94-96) had issues. as for how it stalls I'm not certain, I have not drove the truck, I'm going off what current owner is saying.

So thinking about trading my 1975 Chevy C30 Cheyenne Super for a 1995 Chevy C2500 6.5L auto 2wd. motor has 100K, Jasper trans has 40K and body is at 309K. has the pmd relocated, oil pressure switch and temp sensor replaced, new flex plate, the common stuff has all been done. issue its having is once its warmed up it wont idle. at a stop throttle has to be held otherwise it will stall. he says he thinks its the ecm. ive had a durmax but never dealt with the detroits. any input appreciated!

So my aunt has a 94 Chevy full size Blazer with the 6.5L turbo Diesel, it is a 4X4 with an automatic transmission (4L80e). I know that these blazers are hard to find with the Diesel, it has less than 150K, and runs great. drives well, straight and shifts smooth, 4X4 works as well. body in good shape. My question is whats the value of the truck? my dad is thinking about buying it from her, and he wants to make her a reasonable offer. Thanks, Jim

Hi All I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD crew cab long bed powered by the LB7 Duramax. it currently has the super quiet stock exhaust, and i want to make it louder as cheap as possible. does anyone know if there is a muffler delete, a pipe to bypass the huge muffler? and also how about the turbo silencer, is it removable? thanks, Jim

they look ok on 2nd gen dodges but not chevys. id get 08+ chevy tow mirrors

colossus jake111 glow plugs were replaced by previous owner, maybe 30k miles ago. i guess depending on how much they were used the could be burnt out. dont really want to take them out cuz if the mushroomed out that will screw up a lot of stuff. also got the aluminum bleeder screw for the fuel filter housing and plan on installing soon to see if that will help. pretty sure the plastic one on it is cracked. as for the fuel filter i really want caterpillar as my cousins 03 LB7 had one and it works amazing for him. but i cant find just a filter for the stock housing, only conversion kits. and what are the best bang for your buck tuners out there? dont want something race truck, but towing, fuel economy, and maybe able to roll some coal would be nice

Hello I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLE crew cab long bed 4X4. It has the 6.6L LB7 Duramax Diesel engine and the Allison 5 speed transmission. Recently i have had an issue with the truck taking a long time to start. especially when I don't plug in the block heater. When I purge the fuel system (push the primer button on top of the fuel filter housing a few times) that seems to help. I am familiar with the issue that since the Duramax engines pull fuel to the engine with the pump on the engine VS. push it to the engine with a pump in the fuel tank, they tend to blow O-rings on the filter housing. There is a Bleeder screw on top of the housing by the primer button, ive been told these loose there seals easily due to the fact they are made of plastic. aluminum ones are $10, I plan on replacing it. The injectors were replaced with aftermarket Bosch injectors to fix the common LB7 injector issue by the previous owner so I don't believe that's the issue. Also does anyone know the part number for a cat fuel filter that will fit? Thanks, Jim

I found LED replacements at tractor supply co. For my trailers marker lights.

if its drivers side, probably power steering. passenger side, tranny fluid. or at least thats how it is in my 94.

check the head gaskets and also to see if its burning or leaking oil. also check the starter bracket that was more of an issue with the 6.5L diesels but ive seen 5.7L engines with broken ones.

ok good im glad that worked. best of luck when you go to have it fixed

get a digital volt-ohm-meter and check the readings from all battery to starter wiring, alternator wiring, etc... also check ignition wiring.

so considering upgrading my trucks rear leafs to 2500 suspension. guy before me put 4:10's front and rear with eaton lockers so the only thing keeping her from hauling heavy stuff is the 4 flimsy 1500 leafs. i just recently hauled an 1,800 lbs trailer with 3,600 lbs of scrap on it and it sat her down a bit. so my question is will the 3/4 ton leafs fit on my frame? already checked the reese hitch specs it will haul the weight. someone told me the shackle mounts will need to be moved (i know the shackles will have to be upgraded as well). my other option was to add a leaf, but not to sure about that. thanks