Salty315

Billet bowtie inserts from Amazon. Super easy and for 39.95 shipped, much cheaper than OEM. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I3XC16Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My '16 passenger side was very stubborn as well, almost to the point of giving up. A 5lb hammer worked, but had to alternate hitting the knuckle from the the front and back. After about a dozen hits, it came loose. Driver side popped right out.

2016 Silverado with 20x9 +18 Gear Alloy Big Block. 295/55/20 Toyo AT2 extreme. 2" RC Level. No Rub.

Yep, removed tie rod, upper ball joint and sway bar connector. This allows hub to move, but doesn't change position of CV shaft, other than up and down. Not nearly enough allowance for the bolt . Maybe I'm missing something?

Before After

Installed RC 2" level last weekend (2016 Silverado with stamped steel arms). Instructions state to install on top of shock mount pointing down. Due to the CV shaft being in the way, this isn't possible for one of the bolts. When installing that particular bolt pointing up (as instructed in many of the online videos) it makes contact with the CV shaft. It seemed very slight and only when the arms were fully dropped. I thought the vehicle would have to leave the ground for the bolt to contact the shaft. A two mile test drive proved otherwise. I had to cut 1/4" off the interfering bolt and now it's fine. Has anyone else seen this?