romeactual

Based on my RPO codes I have a G80 rear diff. No trace of su7 or su8 which seems to be the common rear diff. I’m trying to find the correct gasket and also with the g80 it appears you’re not to use limited slip additives. I crossed 100k miles so figure the service is due. Is this g80 in a su7 or su8 housing? 5.3L L84 SLT.

Extremely detailed build! Thanks for putting ideas in my head. I want to add my experience, but please note I am a bass head (SPL stuff). I currently have a 15" Soundqubed (SQ) HDX3 running on a SQ 2200D at 1ohm, its in a 3.5cft box tuned to 30hz. I haven't metered it, but its loud and respectable in my opinion. Its not making people tap out or anything, but its in your face bass. Surprisingly, stock electrical is holding up good too. I have always hated on Bose, but I will say - When you turn bass -10 or -12, the mids and tweets are greatly improved on the stock Bose speakers. Historically, I could never add this much sub to an older vehicle and get away with stock speakers. I always ran amplified mids and tweets prior. These scream and are loud enough to play along with the subs. However, in terms of sound quality, I know many would complain. I wonder for ease of trying, should I attempt to replace the A pillar speakers and/or door speakers but keep them on the same Bose amp? I know they can be weird impedance speakers. I really don't want to wire a new 2 or 4 channel amp, just seems like a lot of work. I haven't been able to find write ups about this but seems like based on your experience, its pretty easy to swap out those speakers. Thanks again for detailing your build!

Interesting, over the summer a horizontal line appeared on my passenger side window, straight across. I wouldn't call it a slice but more like a wrinkle. If you had the tint done at a shop see if you have a warranty. You can remove the door panels fairly easy, and service or replace the felt/weather strip.

That’s what was strange. I watched the videos and I forsure put the truck into brake service mode. I could hear the electronic brake motors retracting for a while but they didn’t retract. It stood in service mode while I swapped the pads. Can’t see what I missed but would be good to know for next time. Thanks.

Figured this was worth sharing. Replaced rear pads/rotors on my 2019 with 70k miles. Far as I know this is the first change. The rear outside rotors looked fine but I was getting some major squeaking. When I disassembled I noticed that the inside pads were completely shot, next to no pad life left and the inside of the rotors were beat. The outside pads had over 50% pad life left, so it seems they wear completely uneven. Also, if you’re going to change pads, be sure to enter brake service mode. You will need a caliper retractor tool as you can’t compress the calipers with pressure.

I had same issue and then got a transmission flush at the dealership. Took care of the shutter. My truck also fluctuated RPMs at 50-80mph range, where the speed wouldn't change but RPMS changed. Was thinking my torque convertor was going bad. Just needed new trans oil is all. best of luck. FYI - I paid around 300 for that. I realized the stealership tacked in an extra "diagnostic" fee since I stated it was shuttering. Just a heads-up, if you know exactly what service you're requesting at a dealership they should be able to give you the exact pricing beforehand. So expect to pay under $300 for this trans oil change. Manual says it needs to be done every 60k IIRC.

@KLG Sorry to hear. No, I paid out of pocket. However, I setup a case with GM and was eventually reimbursed half of the expenses back in a check, and also was given $500 worth of GM rewards points.

Funny enough, I just had this accidentally done to my truck over the weekend. I paid a shop to install the 5100s and they kept my 1.5” level blocks in place, even though I told them to remove. I used highest clip setting on the shocks for the 2” level. I went back and had the shop remove the level blocks. The truck had a slight squat so I didn’t want to keep that look. But if you get a 1.5-2” block in the rear it would look better. Since I have 22” wheels, my tires look so small so not a fan of the look with the truck higher.

I'm at 70k miles but also hoses (oil cooler lines) are not covered under power train. Chances of getting a "Good Will" repair are higher if you are in the power train warranty though. My biggest gripe is that this shouldn't be a wear item at this mileage, it is a commonly known defect on a part that goes bad prematurely. It has happened on trucks that are half the miles. It needs to be revamped, the design is flawed.

Reading around and talking to the service dept, there are def some stories of them becoming completely detached. That is why I am trying to bring awareness to this situation. Based on all 4 connections leaking at the same time on mine, I would assume it would be more likely to detach. Both dealerships recommended I don't drive the truck at all until it was fixed due to possibility of them failing. Yes, you could be right about them not failing, but this isn't something I would risk if they are leaking, get them replaced or as you said, cut the crimp and double clamp the hoses.

I posted about this previously and had a decent outcome with reimbursement, wanted to share all the info I can. Looking through the forums, it appears its continuing to happen to more people! I would advise 2019 guys to check your oil cooler lines IMMEDIATELY! Mine is a 2019 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT I noticed a small leak in driveway after some real cold temps in Michigan. Took skid plates off and noticed the oil cooler lines were leaking on all four connections between the rubber hoses and metal crimps. It appears cold weather exaggerates this issue. Worst case scenario is those crimps fail, and you lose all of your oil while on the road. Catch it before that happens, and out of warranty or maybe even in warranty, you're stuck with a ~$750 to $1,200 service fee at a STEALERSHIP, just to replace the oil cooler lines (a ~$150 part). It's not an easy DIY job, hence why I paid. I got quotes at different dealerships for this service. First one was over $1200 at an actual GMC dealership, second one was around $750. I went with the cheaper which was solely a Chevy dealer. Of course, there is no warranty for this and although their is a TSB for this issue, its only applicable as of now to about 500 trucks. If your truck is in that group, this procedure would be completely FREE. GMC TSB N192220080 - Please reads this through and you will see that GM is acknowledging this is an issue, but for select trucks only. WE NEED THEM TO ACKNOWLEDGE THAT THIS IS HAPPENING TO WAY MORE TRUCKS. I called GM customer service to set up a "case" with them, and have been waiting the last few weeks on cash reimbursement. They have already given me $500 worth in GM rewards to use at a dealership, and they are currently in process of reimbursing me cash for the service. I have an email which states they are reimbursing half the amount for parts and labor. This situation may be unique for others, but get a claim established AFTER paying for the service. You might just get a refund! You cannot setup a claim before the service. Customer Care: 1 (800) 462-8782 [email protected]

These trucks just seem to ride rough..I installed the 5100 Bilsteins in the rear, and to me, it didn't make a difference. Then you read posts referenced above and guys will say its a huge upgrade. Maybe a huge upgrade if the stock ones are bad, but I didn't notice any ride quality difference. I think a lot of it has to do with tires and rim size. You hop in a new Ram or Ford, and the ride quality is significantly better.

kmeleon, my thought was removing the assembly first and then compressing the spring. Maybe that's why it was harder for you guys? I know the bottle jack under the strut helps get it off and the new one back on. Cool though, thanks for the input. I'm figuring a good couple of hours in the garage.

Thanks Tyler. From my understanding, the level spacers contribute to a harsher ride? I wasn't aware of that at 30k miles when installed, but now at almost 70k miles my wife complains the truck is rough. I really notice it lately too. I mainly want to install the 5100s to refresh the stock struts and remove the spacers. Would have to guess it is going to ride slightly better with this setup, no? Its hard to gauge peoples expectations from reading on this stuff. When I installed the rear Bilstein's, I noticed no difference, whereas people on forums are saying its night and day difference, huge upgrade, etc. lol

Hopefully getting rid of the leveling blocks/spacers as I ordered a set of the adjustable, 0 to 2.5" Bilstein 5100s. https://www.suspensionlifts.com/shop/chevy-gmc/silverado-1500/bilstein-b8-5100-0-2-5-front-lift-shocks-for-2019-2020-chevrolet-silverado-1500-2wd-4wd/ Unable to find any videos of installation on the new body style trucks. Is installation about the same as previous gen? Goal is to hopefully get a better ride while maintaining level. My 2019 is starting to feel rough. I have Toyo AT3 tires, not sure how much that also affects ride quality. Any tips or tricks is appreciated. I have spring compressors and understand that is about the worst part of doing front struts. Plan on reusing everything, other than the new shock.