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maxum3300

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About maxum3300

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  1. It gets the signal from the T harness. You unplug the grey harness from the audio control module and plug it into one side of the T harness. The other side of the T harness plugs back into the ACM. The long end of the harness routes back to the amp.
  2. I cant speak for everyone else but I have been dealing with a loss of chimes altogether. Took my truck into the dealer earlier this week and they didn't know what the issue was. They contacted GM tech support which suggested they replace the radio. They replaced the radio today and still no chimes. Next they disconnected the subwoofer harness removing it from the mix and connected the original harness to the radio and the chimes started working again. I contacted Kicker and they told me that they have had several reports of this issue and are currently working with GM on fix. They took name info as well as my VIN and said they would contact me when they have a resolution. He asked if my truck was a diesel, which it is. He didn't specify but sounds like maybe it only affects the diesel trucks.
  3. I believe that wire that gets spliced is a 12 volt turn on signal for the amp. If it were a single speaker tap it would require splicing 2 wires for positive and negative.
  4. Took the truck in to the dealer. I installed the GM Kicker subwoofer kit part number 19417166. It's a plug and play harness but the tech traced the problem to subwoofer. When they unplugged the harness for the subwoofer and plugged the original harness back in the chimes returned. I explained to the that it's a GM part so not sure where to turn at this point. I want my subwoofer working but need my chimes working too.
  5. Maybe you should reread my post instead of replying with a smart a$$ comment. The manual only addresses adjusting chime volume. If you read, or better yet comprehend my post I have no chimes at all. There is nothing in the manual about turning the chimes off altogether.
  6. Did you ever find a solution to your no chime condition? I juts purchased a 2021 Silverado 2500 and I don't have the chimes either. No turn signal chime, no seatbelt chime, no headlights left on chime, no back up sensor chime and no chimes at start up either.
  7. I just bought a 2021 Silverado 2500HD. When I'm backing and get close to objects I get a caution symbol that flashes up on the screen but no audible beeping. I looked in the manual and it says in the settings under collision/detection system the following may appear: Alert Type Forward Collision system Lane Change Alert Park Assist Rear camera park assist symbols Rear cross traffic alert. The manual goes on to say that alert type sets the alert from either beeps or safety alert seat. When I go into my menu under collision/detection system I dont have options for Alert Type or Forward Collision system but i have the other options lane change alert and so on. Am I to assume that because I don't have alert type in my settings menu I have no audible warning? Seems odd that it would have a rear backup detection system that shows visual warning symbols on the screen but no audible beeps. Even my 2019 work truck beeps when I get close to something while backing up. If I don't have the audible warning is there a way to add it?
  8. GM has incorporated bass roll off into their audio systems for several years not. As the volume gets louder the bass decreases so as to protect the cheap OEM speakers. Since this kicker add on system gets its signal form the speaker output I can only assume that this subwoofer is prone to bass roll off as well. Has anyone noticed this and found a way to overcome it? At what volume level does the bass start to roll off?
  9. Tried to read thru each page but got more and more confused. I have a 2015 Silverado 2500HD with the Duramax diesel. I have traction control, cargo lights and the exhaust brake so I would need switch cluster 23145163. I want to use one of the auxiliary switches to control a light bar. The light bar has a relay harness that has 2 wires that go to the battery and a longer 2 wire harness that goes into the cab that connects to the supplied toggle switch. Where do I connect these 2 wires that would go to the toggle switch in order to use the auxiliary switch?
  10. I bought a used 2015 Silverado 2500HD Duramax exactly one month ago today, Dec 12th 2017. Truck has 58K miles on it. The alignment was off a bit and the steering wheel was crooked, to the right about 15 degrees. I didn't bother having it taken care of right away because I knew I was going to lift it and it would need to be aligned after the lift. Had the lift installed Dec 27th. with no issues. I have driven the truck about 300-400 miles since having the lift installed but today was the first chance I've had to get it in the shop to have it aligned. When I took it in I had no issues what so ever. Upon leaving after the alignment was done I now have a service stabilitrak warning that pops up as soon as I start the truck and the warning light stays on. Again no issues prior to the alignment. Alignment is perfect now and the steering wheel is straight. I called the shop but the tech that did the alignment had already left for lunch. He called me when he returned and said yes the warning came up after the alignment and that anytime they do an aligment they have to reset the steering position sensor to zero, however he couldn't communicate with the sensor so he was unable to reset it. I guess this would indicate a faulty steering position sensor but I have a hard time believing that since everything was fine prior to the alignment. Any ideas what this could be?
  11. When you went from the zone to the mcgaughy how did you mount the differential? The zone requires the passenger side front differential mount to be cut off but the mcgaughy differential bracket bolts to this mount. I want to replace my rough county lift with the mcgaughy but not sure how to because i have the same problem with the differential mount removed.
  12. Hello all. I had my stereo upgraded today and needs some input from others who have done the same. I had all 4 door speakers replaced with JL Audio 6 3/4s and 2 JL 10s in a box under the rear seat while retaining the factory radio. I instructed the installer to use the rear speaker outputs so the door chimes wouldn't be amplified and to use the 5 channel amp to power the 4 door speakers and the 2 10s. I also asked that he disconnect the dash speakers and run new leads from the factory radio to the dash speakers so I would have the chimes come thru the driver dash speaker. He did not do this and since the front door and dash speakers are wired together they are both now amplified. Not really a bad thing but now I have no chimes or audio from the bluetooth phone. My question if anyone knows, when you are talking on the phone does the audio only come from the driver side speakers or out of both driver and passenger side speakers? If both then I am going to run new leads to the dash speakers from the front radio output. If its onlu from the driver side i may just leave the dash speakers amplified and mount a small external speaker under the dash somewhere wired from the front driver side radio output so I can have my chimes and phone audio back. Has anyone else done this or does anyone have any other suggestions?
  13. According to crutchfield all 4 speaker outputs are full range so you shouldn't lose anything by tapping the rear speaker outputs. I'm going to do as Capt. McFunk said, tap the rear doors speakers outputs for my line level into my line out converter then run rca's to my amp then run new speaker wires to all 4 doors. Leave the 2 dash speakers connected to the factory wiring fort my chime.
  14. Has anyone addressed the issue of the factory stereo reducing the bass input into the aftermarket amp as the volume is increased and if how did you eliminate it? Also for those of you that have replaced the door speakers and added an amp to run them how did you deal with the door chime volume being amplified. At first I plan to just add 2 JL 10s and an amp and get my signal from the rear door speakers so I don't have to deal with the chimes. If later I decide to replace the factory speakers and add a 4 channel amp I will probably just use the rear speaker leads for the signal input and just use some rca Y adaptors for the 4 channel inputs, Run new speaker wires to all 4 doors and leave the dash speakers connected simply for the chimes that way the chimes won't be amplified. Of course using just the rear speaker outputs and the Y adaptors will eliminate the ability to fade front to back but I could simply adjust the gains to balance out the volume front to rear.
  15. Hey guys, I have a question for anyone who has upgraded the factory sound system in their Sierra or Silverado. I have a 2015 Sierra non nose stereo. I want to replace all 4 door speakers and add an amp to power them yet retain the factory radio. I called crutchfield and they gave me the pinouts so I would know what wires to tap for a line output converter but my concern is with the door chime. The chimes come from the driver door speaker. If I tap those speaker wires and feed them to the line output converter they then became the input source for the amp so in turn wouldn't the door chimes be running thru the amp as well and therefore amplified? I have the chime setting turned all the way down as it is and it still is too loud. I certainly don't want to amplify the chime. Anyone else run into this?
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