Logroller

another view. I did not clean and lubricate this time, just put in cut tubes from the dirt bike. Placed between top an middle leaf and middle and bottom leaf at both ends. That is 4 pieces per side.

Have this now and noise has been reduced 95%. Just installed so no telling how long it will last. The remaining 5% noise could be from the lower leaf still slapping or something else.

my '17 has the round stock rubber pads and it's clunk city.

And the beat, I mean clunk, goes on.

Hmm for the thumpitdy thump suspension sound or the clunkitdy clunk driveshaft/torque conventor/trans/computer shift issue? Curious to see what happens.

No need for fuel addivtives or fuel cleaners. I’m 99% sure the noise was due to oil being over full. It’s incredibly stupid how different the dipstick will read from 30mins after running the motor to a few hours later. Just need to figure out this freaking dipstick so I can get real oil readings. Annoying shit.

Just shy of 19K. Noise went away with taking 1qt out. Have no idea whats really in it now, but my guess is even after draining for 45mins, there’s at least half to 3/4 qt, maybe more, old oil in there given how dark the new oil was when I took out the qt. There has to be a lot of places for the oil to sit in these motors. I drained the pan and then took the filter off and oil just gushed out from the filter tube. So I can just imagine areas where it sits and cannot flow down on its own.

6.2L = 8qt and diyer2, an oil change can cause motor issues e.g., too little, too much will cause issues.

No lights or DIC oil warning.

My guess is putting 8qts in with the stuff left in the system was causing a lifter or something issue. I took a qt out and the noise went away. I hate how the dipstick reads. After sitting over night, the hatch mark side, inserted facing the firewall, showed plenty over top hatch. I took out a qt and its still over hatch and the opposite side of the stick reads at below the dot by tip. Say what? I think this stick reads weird.

Nope. this freaking dipstick. It’s reading above hatch mark now and below the dot by the tip on the other side. That’s a huge difference. And was after I took 16+oz out, basically a little over a quart. I gotta imagine there’s quite a bit left in there even after draining for 30 to 45 minutes, becuase the new oil is dark when I drained that amount. So I have 7quarts new in there, plus whatever was left in the system from the drain, puts it over hatch and under tip dot. Freaking baffling dipstick and changing oil is not something new to me.

Oil is at the 2nd dot away from the tip.

The ‘17 Sierra 1500 6.2L idle is a little weak and its knocking or ticking some. This is the first time I changed the oil, other times by dealer. Oil pressure looks normal. I put in the required 8qts 0w/20 dexos 1 Gen 2, dipstick is fine, put on the a new oul filter (same as others), and all Acdelco as it has been. Do these motors take a little bit to run correctly after an engine oil change? Never had a motor do this.

Tube pics

Good luck. Of course I would be curious to see if you get anything resolved as in fixing the issue.

Well, I'm not really buying the lost email bit or that you cannot remember what you wrote given how steamed you portrayed yourself. Seems phishy, but lets say those reasons are legit. Where is your dealer info/resolution based on your claim GM wants to appease you. It's all a bunch of crap if you cannot show us proof of your issue, dispute and or resolution. Filing online or by mail with the State Attorney General is not a big deal and it really is nothing more than a middle-man for contacting your complaint source. Companies are not scared by contacts from A.G., B.B.B, & DMV. There is nothing legally investigated, it is merely an exchange of information until a true claim warrants further investigation, yours not being one of them. I know this due to my own experience reporting a dealer for false advertisement. If you truly did get a repsonse from GM, I doubt it was them begging you to give them a chance to rectify things, but more like a general response stating they apologized for the inconvenience and issues you're having and asking how they can settle your concerns. And that's what I'm going with until you can give others "real tangible facts" to help their troubled trucks out. Otherwise your post is just considered as bullcocky, rubbish, crackersnackles, trolling......i.e., not helpful. P.S. If you prove me wrong , I blame it on my confusion manifested from trying to figure out if the noises from my own truck is a squeak, clunk, thump, tick, thunk, slap, knock, chirp or screech in comparison to the numerous noise posts on this forum. Actually, I have a headache and felt like story telling to calm my discomfort. Cheers

You know it, more miles = magically goes away. Service manager time or higher.

Yeah, the "clean/lube fix" is lame and it means one would have to do it constantly. Good luck with new leafs, hopefully that works, but I wonder if it will be the same part resulting in the same issue.

Post your claim (omitting personal content) so we can cut and paste.

I'm a member of the rear thunk club. I still haven't narrowed it down, but my feeling is it the suspension as others have stated. It only happens under 5mph (at least that's when I notice it) and when I go over a slight bump or backing in the garage (slight incline). Seems to be only the passenger side. I had the rear squeaks too, dealer cleaned and relubed the leafs, it is slowly coming back. It started around 10k miles. The sound is different from the transmission clunk or axle clunk. Which of course I have as well. Wondering if the Yoke might be loose too. I wish I could get my dealer to get rid of the transmission clunk. '17 1500 4x4, 15k miles