Scribe325

2021 Suburban Premier with about 75K miles. Short version: Driver side A/C won’t get cold. The air conditioner is working properly on the passenger side only. On the driver side, when the passenger side is cold, the driver side isn’t. It’s not exactly hot but more like ambient temperature. When I set either side to a hot temp, both sides heat up properly. Same behavior with “sync” selected or when setting each side independently. Rear temperatures also work properly. I have checked the refrigerant, replaced the blend door actuator, and tried multiple different calibration methods. No change. The dealers in this area are a non-starter. I have been to a couple of them in the past and they routinely misdiagnose problems with the most expensive, but incorrect, repair. I don’t trust the dealers to do anything but collect my money. I’m running out of ideas. Google has failed me. Any thoughts from you A/C experts? Thanks in advance. Alex

I did this when I bought the truck years back. I bought the GM harness for both doors that was compatible with mirrors with lights in them. Everything is plug-and-play but It takes some time and patience to change out the harnesses inside both doors. No special tools are required beyond some molding tools to remove panels. You will need to pull off part of the plastic moisture barrier inside the door which is glued in place. Getting some sealant to replace the stuff you cut is my recommendation. I later bought the power-fold mirror switch which allowed me to go from the “base” mirrors to power fold tow (GM uses the term "camper" for the big towing mirrors). Here's some part numbers if you're interested in going this route: Mirror control switch: GM part #84643953 Driver side door harness: GM part #23342729 Passenger side door harness: GM part #23342715 Driver side power-folding camper mirror: GM part #84228899 Passenger side power-folding camper mirror: GM part #84228900 This mod invalidates the DL8 RPO code and effectively adds DPN RPO code. Also, as is their custom, it's very likely that GM has changed these part numbers multiple times since I did this mod. Recommend you research accordingly.

That looks great! Did those snap into place or are they held with double-sided tape? Is there anything you don’t like about them?

I have been looking at the snap on overlays, too, but have some concerns about how they will look. Has anyone tried them? Thoughts?

I’m not a dealer expert (a few folks around here are pretty knowledgeable on the inner workings of dealerships) but I would expect that a wheel speed sensor is covered under your powertrain warranty. I also expect the dealer will try to weasel out of that coverage by telling you your wheel/tire setup voids that portion of the warranty even though I have a hard time believing big tired would cause that failure. I’m not sure how you’d fight that one. I would definitely ask the dealer to do a warranty swap of the wheel speed sensor and go from there.

I am running the same setup on my 2017 Silverado LT 4x4. I have a Fabtech 6 inch lift with 35s. I have been on that setup for almost two years and have not had a single issue with cruise control. I do intend to re-gear/tune soon (I am going to 4.10 gears) primarily to restore the feel of the stock setup, towing capacity and relieve some stress on the transmission. All that is to say I doubt your lift/wheel/tire setup is causing cruise control problems. I think the issue likely lies elsewhere. As was mentioned earlier, the cruise control and wheel speed sensor have no way of knowing how big your tires are. Perhaps you have a bad wheel speed sensor? Not that it helps to hear “I don’t have a problem even though you do” but I have had my share of answers from dealer technicians that I knew immediately to be incorrect. I am always frustrated when the supposed experts on a vehicle were either too lazy or too uninformed to do some research to get you a correct answer. I’m not sure which is worse.