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RACERX7775

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Everything posted by RACERX7775

  1. RACERX7775
    Let me see if i can draw a diagram and ill post it back in a few. Maybe i can rewire it for the better..Im always up for some learning.?
  2. RACERX7775
    But since i have a charge wire connecting batt1 and batt2, they should both see the same voltage. Right? So in theory, if I was pulling alot of power for the stereo, batt2 to the amps, the charge cable connected to batt1 and batt2 should equal out voltages between the 2 batts., then the alt would sense the lower voltage, and adjust charging amperage. If i did not have a cable from batt1 to batt2, then i would agree with you because then the alt really wouldnt know how to charge batt2. It would really only charge accordingly to what batt1 would require.
  3. RACERX7775
    I forgot to add, the one thing that i did not want to do is mess with the original truck wiring. Atleast for alternator and batt1. It was more to just ADD, for batt2.
  4. RACERX7775
    Yup. I know what isolaters do. So, the one thing that you said is, which i had no clue about is, that the charging system can be tuned? Hmm. How? I was always one who wanted 14.8 or so, all the time. Apparently, thats not the case with these trucks. I dont like how the computer controls and lowers the voltage settings for charging. Im not sure i like it or not. There has been many threads on how to disable it. I think im just gonna leave mine alone the way i have it. Good discussion though.
  5. RACERX7775
    Ok. I see your point. But i would never wanna isolate the batteries. I dont wanna only pull power through batt1 to charge batt2. Because on a heavy draw, you could harm batt1 because batt 1 technically, would be charging batt2. So recovery time on batt2 would be greatly increased. But since I have a charge cable between batt1 and batt2, the voltages will, over time, equal themselves out. And thats also the main reason why i have a charge cable from alt to batt2. As for the fact that i will burn up 1 battery. We will have to agree to disagree. I have never "burned up" a battery doing any of this stuff. Lastly, i dont think the alt will ever max out to charge either of the batts. Again, no harm here. Im not saying i know it all. Just merely what works for me and i have NEVER had ANY issues with any of my trucks. We/most are on here to learn and help each other out.
  6. RACERX7775
    I would add another ground from batt2 to chassis. I also have a cable from alt+ to batt2 +. In my excursion i have a DC POWER alt. It was Daves first prototype. I have the regulator set at 15.2v. Have had it that way for several years. It reliably puts out over 250 amps hot at idle. When cool at max load it puts out over 500. On my ammeter i would pull a hard 390 amps on a 32hz test tone. And voltage would only drop to about 14.4v. But it was over $1100.
  7. RACERX7775
    About a year so far. I can watch the volt meter go up to normal and then down to the lowest setting. Just like normal.
  8. RACERX7775
    No. No. No. I have all factory grounds. I have another ground from batt2 to engine. Another ground from batt2 to chassis. But no ground from batt1 to batt2.
  9. RACERX7775
    Nope. Basically the truck doesn't even know that the second batt is there. I have power from batt1 to batt 2 and power wire from alt stud to batt2. Im not worried about dead batteries if ever, i have a lithium jump pack.
  10. RACERX7775
    I wasnt looking to isolate either of them. It was more of a way to keep voltage spikes at a min from the stereo system. This isnt my first time doing this thing. If done right, you wont hurt anything. I had these in the back of my excursion with 2 more up front.
  11. RACERX7775
    Why dont you guys see if someone wants to trade. I had the black ones on my truck when i bought it. I took them off and cost me about 350 for all 4 chrome pieces.
  12. RACERX7775
    This just shows the breakers from batt1 to batt2.
  13. RACERX7775
    If you wanna go completely factory for the second battery, it's alot of work. When i did mine, i made my own cables. The routing is totally different. I just went from + batt1 to + batt2. I also did + from alt to + batt2. - from batt2 to engine and chassis. All of my aftermarket stereo power gets power from batt2.
  14. RACERX7775
    You will need a relay harness for the light. You will need a headlight switch. You need atleast the 2ch latching relay. You dont really need the harness from Phil. What you need is the pins with a pigtail to be able to hook into the headlight switch from the relay.
  15. RACERX7775
    Yup... lol.2016+ should......
  16. RACERX7775
    So here is a basic wiring guide to which Seapacer2 spent his time to figure it out. I dont know why it rotates the pics. Remember, you still need to put the gray and yellow wire that connects to pins 6 and 10 on the headlight switch. I just cut the wires from the harness that I got from Phil. I'll try and link the 2 channel relay that I got from amazon. If not, Seapacer2 put the link for the 4 channel version. You can use either. You just wont use anything for channels 3 and 4. As far as mounting it, I took the panel off under the steering wheel and just taped it up and wire tied it around the crossbar.
  17. RACERX7775
    It might be tomorrow until i get it. But ill work something up for ya.
  18. RACERX7775
    I dont think it would. Our 14 15 trucks dont have the BCM ability to do it. So far, the relay is the only way to do it with the factory headlight switch.
  19. RACERX7775
    Since im a chevy guy, i wouldnt have noticed. But comparing the two pics, the new one is really nice. Way better than factory.
  20. RACERX7775
    Double post. Sorry.
  21. RACERX7775
    Hmmm. Not sure on that one. Does your truck work the orl switch from the factory? If not, go the route seapacer2 showed. I did and its an instant on and off. This thing is way smaller than you think.
  22. RACERX7775
    So here is just a final confirmation for those with 14+ trucks that this little relay assembly works perfectly.
  23. RACERX7775
    Also, depending on how you give the relay power depends on when it will come on. For test purposes, i hooked it up to one of the 10a spare fuses in the l/s inside the door. Its constant power. So the ORL works anytime. No lights have to be on.
  24. RACERX7775
    Ok, so yesterday i got and wired in the relay that Seapacer2 posted about except Igot the 2 channel relay. It didnt work as of last night. Today i came out and traced down the problem to the gray wire down to where the BCM is. I used that gray wire to hook into the relay. Somewhere in that wire, there is a break. I ran a new gray wire up to the switch. BAM!!! Works perfectly. To turn it on, its a simple press of the ORL button. To turn it off, again, just a simple push of the ORL button. There is no long press needed. The icon on the dash does NOT light up, but the ORL button on the headlight switch DOES light up. THANK YOU TO SEAPACER2 FOR HELPING ME OUT!!!
  25. RACERX7775
    Seapacer, I got my relay installed. Doesnt work unless i push the button on the relay. But the ORL on the headlight switch does come on. Nothing happens if i just press the headlight switch.
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