steve76t

Finally have my lift done & tires installed. Fabtech 6” Gen II along with 35x12.50R20 Toyo Open Country AT IIIs on 20x10 -18 Fuel Rebel wheels.

No resolution yet. After the last visit the dealership could not find what’s causing the issue this time. Luckily it’s no longer as frequent as it was in the past, however it still happens every few weeks. The service writer said they’ll need to bring in a GM field service engineer to look at it. Don’t know when that’s going to happen & was told it might be a while before the engineer is available

Finally bit the bullet, made a decision and ordered my parts. Now have a Fabtech 6” Gen II Magneride lift, set of grey Fuel Rebel 20x10 -18 wheels wrapped with 35x12.50r20 Toyo Open Country AT III’s headed my way. Cost me a little more than what I originally planned to spend, but it'll be worth it in the end. I’m terribly impatient so the wait for the stuff to arrive is gonna kill me. Different truck but my '17 GMC Denali should look similar to this when done...

Finally bit the bullet, made a decision and ordered my parts. Now have a Fabtech 6” Gen II Magneride lift, set of grey Fuel Rebel 20x10 -18 wheels wrapped with 35x12.50r20 Toyo Open Country AT III’s. I’m terribly impatient so the wait for the stuff to arrive is gonna kill me.

35's with only a 4" lift? That leaves me with some questions... Which lift did you go with & what are you specs on the tire/wheel package? Was advertised as a 4" lift or was the the actual amount of lift your got from the kit?

What size tire do you have, what’s offset of your wheels & did ya have to trim much to make clearance for the tires?

Nice clean looking setup. Any rubbing or trimming required to fit those?

LOL! $6000 + $1500 for install wasn't exactly within my budget. More like $3500 for lift & tires is more like it for me. Staying with the stock wheels for now. That can be changed later on if I change my mind on the look & save me some cash for exhaust that I'll need next. Labor cost will be only for the alignment once installed as I'll do the actual lift myself. Nice truck you got though...

Hi All, I've got a 2017 GMC 1500 Denali, 5.3L, that's got a 2" RC level kit with 285/55r20 on stock chrome 20" Denali wheels. Looking to upgrade & put a true lift on it. But I'm torn on which way to go. Here are the three options I'm considering... 4" Fabtech Uniball Magride and 305/55r20s - At first I thought for sure this would be the way I'd like to go. Nice mild lift with 33" tires that shouldn't really have much of any performance issues for the truck. This 4" lift is one of if not the only Magride compatible lift at this level. The problem is that the 305/55r20's are actually only about 3/4" taller than my current set up. Fabtech's website states that this lift would fit up to a 295/55r20 tire which kind of surprises me & is maybe 1/2" more tire than my current 285's. Some pics I've found show some trucks looking just like I'd like, some even running 35's, but others looking like there's almost no change to the truck's stance. 6" Fabtech Gen 2 Magride & 35x12.50r20s - Saw a truck this weekend with a sim set up & it looks just about right to what I'd like my truck to look like. This Fabtech lift also doesn't offset the front like many other lifts which may be a plus. Don't know how well this would work with stock 20" wheels. 6" BDS Denali lift with 35x12.50r20's - Seems to be a very popular lift. Little more expensive than the 6" Fabtech but not terribly so. Does offset front end a bit & requires 2" spacers for the rear to match if i'm not mistaken. So, with all that said, what'd you choose & why? Any pics of these set ups would be helpful, especially from those with the 4" Fabtech lift.

Anyone on here run a Fabtech 4” Uniball lift for Denali pickups with Magride? I have a ‘17 Denali and looking for a 4” lift & would like to keep my stock 20” Denali chrome wheels. The Fabtech website says that their lift isn’t compatible with stock wheels, but I’m assuming that with 1 1/2” spacers I should still be able to keep em. Also, looking to run 305/55r20 BFG KO2s. However the Fabtech site lists a 295/55r20 tire size would fit with minor plastic trimming. Anyone run the 4” Fabtech lift with something larger that the 295’s?

Question for those with lifts. I’ve got a ‘17 GMC Denali with the Magride system & just undecided on which lift to go with. I’m pretty sure the that the Fabtech 4” Uniball lift is for me but part of me wonders if the 6”BDS lift is worth it too. Don’t know why BDS doesn’t have a 4” lift available for the Denali trucks & only their 6” lift is compatible with the Magride system. Looking to run 305/55R20 BFG KO2’s. The Fabtech website states that their lift would fit 295/55r20. Anyone know for sure if the 295’s are the max for their 4” lift or will 305’s fit? For reference, my truck has a 2” front level & 285/55r20’s on it right now. EDIT: The more I look around the more I’m thinking a 6” lift & 35’s is what I want. Any ride advantages of the 6” BDS over say the Fabtech 6” Gen 2? I do like that the Fabtech doesn’t increase front track width.

Well ******! Error is back again. At least I went 7 weeks before this error came back to haunt me. Got another appointment scheduled at the dealership tomorrow morning. Will this ever end ?

still working & no new message for nearly a month now. So? I'm getting my hopes up that this issue may actually be resolved.

Not just yet... Just started back up again with the last two fill ups, the last one being worse the than the previous fill up. Going to see what my next fill up later this week looks like before calling the dealership again.

Hi All, I have a 2017 GMC Sierra Denali 1500 pickup that's giving me issues with the fuel gauge. When I fill up with gas it only goes up to about the 3/4 mark. This isn't the first time this the first time this issue has come up for me. Back in February it did the same thing. Took it to the dealership & they said that this is a very common issue that happens due to the use of additives in the fuel used in winter fuel blends. So common that they were getting 3 to 5 vehicles in per day with this issue. They inspected the truck and then ordered and replaced the fuel sending unit. This fixed the problem for me at that time but it's back. Same as last winter, last time I filled up I put 22.3 gallons & the light was not on yet but only got to about 3/4 of a tank on the gauge. After driving a few miles it creeped up towards towards the full line, but not quite get there. Then the next time I start the truck it's back down just above the 3/4 tank line even though I've only driven about 10 miles since that last fill up. It then reads much lower than expected for the remainder of the tank. For example I've only driven 140 miles of mostly hwy miles on my current tank of gas and already down to the 1/4 tank mark on the fuel gauge. When the gauge is operating normally I'd still be well above the 1/2 tank line at this point. Who else has had this issue and what'd you do to fix it? The other concern I have now is that I've had my truck for more than 3 years now & have about 38,000 miles on it. Concerned that the dealership & GM won't cover the costs of fixing this due to it being past the warranty period even though they'd be fixing an issue that was supposed to fixed less than a year ago.

Well, so far so good I guess. At the risk of jinxing myself, it's been 9 days since the dealership repaced the driver side window motor & I haven't yet seen my error pop back up. Could this actually be fixed now?

another update... Just had the truck into the dealership again to look at this ongoing issue. This time they checked for voltage drop across all battery cables, passed that with highest reading of 121mv. Retested the battery which was ok. Then was directed by GM TAC engineer to replace the driver's window motor as that is a common repair for this issue. Got my fingers crossed that this may be fixed now.

No, sorry no rain involved with this issue. Been very dry this year in Reno

Sorry, it's been a little while since I've gotten back to this thread, but my issues continue at this time. The new BCM did not fix my issues. Been to the dealership a few times since for them to continue to guess what's going on. Last time was last week. They told me the GM asked them to check a relay or connection in the passenger side door. However, after I got the truck back that's not what the service tech wrote in his description of work completed. Looks like he just "Cleared and Relearned Window Stop in BCM", checked all grounds under hood, and "load tested battery at 360 amps for 15 seconds. Passed at 10.4 volts". Picked up my truck on Wednesday, ended up with the window message on my dash Friday AM & again Sunday afternoon. I'm trying to get ahold of my service rep again, he's a pain to get ahold of, and will give him a copy of your response to this. Lets see if it gets me anywhere...

GMC Service guy is not telling me that they're sure its a Body Control Module issue. Getting low voltage readings through the module even though the battery is fully charged. They've now got a new one on order to replace the one in the truck.

Yup, I do that. However, the error returns within 7 to 10 days. Do you have to do that in your Camaro 4 to 5 times per month?

Anyone get the “Action Required - Open Then Close Driver Window” error on your dash? I posted about this error and a few others that I was getting a few months ago. Dealership looked at the truck, had it for two days, and ended up replacing the battery. Fixed the other errors I was getting but I still get the “Action Required - Open Then Close Driver Window” error about once every 7 to 10 days. Truck is at the dealership again, but they haven't found the problem yet. Anyone else have this problem & did it get fixed? If so, what was your fix???

Ride is pretty good for an all-terrain type tire. Rear end skips around occasionally when going though thru sharp mid-corner bumps. Not sure if that's the tires or the suspension though.

Update... Still getting the “Action Required - Open Then Close Driver Window” message at times. Happens about once every other week or so. Also noticed that the volt meter on the dash does not vary as much as it did in the past. Almost always just a little above 14 on the gauge. Once in a while it'll drop a tiny little bit below 14, but never down in the 13.0-ish range as it did in the past. Anyone else experience this?