AbzDad

I have the VSE CCV kit. It is a quality product. Fairly easy installation. I vent it back into the turbo intake horn, like stock. I check the reservoir monthly. I have seen oily water come out. So far, after 6 months I would say it has collected about 8-10 ounces of crap.

I did a search and only found 1-2 posts. This year I am putting larger tires on my truck in the summer, which causes my speedometer to be off by 5 mph at 55mph. I have been looking for something that can recalculate the speedometer to be correct. I prefer something that I can easily re-program/remove when I put my stock tires back on in the winter. I know Rough Country has an in-line box (part number 90051) that changes the speedo/odometer and transmission shift points to account for the larger tires. I really don't want another electronic box in my engine bay, so hoping someone has seen another product that can program the ECU to account for larger tires. Has anyone seen/used something beside the RC box. This is on a 2024 Sierra 2500.

Looks like that pad is only included in the whole handle. The handle part number is 86569330 and is around $150.

Wish I could answer your questions... I hope the new caliper is not an issue and hope the rest of the calipers are good. Only time will tell. I have used Powerstop on other vehicles, I have not had any issues. The pads/rotor/sensor package is only $300 USD for the rear. I am not sure where I got $400, maybe shipping. The kit is listed for 2020-2024. Same kit for gas or diesel. Nothing listed for Powerstop in 2025-2026 models. RA does have the rebuild kit for $18 USD and multiple options for the shoes. GM shoes are listed for $67 USD and fit from 2020-2026. I had to get the parking brake shoes and rebuild kit locally, as I didn't know there was an issue until I pulled the rotor off and the lining fell out.

The only option I had was the GM shoes and rebuild kit. They were $100 USD for the shoes and $18 for the kit at Advanced Auto. GM dealer didn't have them in stock. Caliper wasn't in stock either. They had to drive down to Mass to get one. The pads/rotors I got were Powerstop extreme towing from Rockauto. It was a kit with pads, rotors and sensor. It was slightly under $400 total. I haven't put many miles on the truck since the new caliper. Hoping these new rotors aren't junk or warp due to the heat from the bad caliper.

This was one of the reasons I got a cheap pouch from Amazon. My truck will sit for weeks in the winter. The fob was talking to the truck quite a bit. So much that I had to get a trickle charger. I got one that is the size of a wallet. Sits on my desk until I need the truck. Works great.

the other thread was mine. My 2024 with 22k miles showed the exact same symptoms. Inner pads worn down and outer pads normal. Dealership replaced the caliper under warranty. I replaced the pads/rotors and E-brake shoes. No scan tool needed to change the pads/rotors and E-brake shoes.

In lieu of the scan tool, you can just go through the process to put the brakes into service mode. Requires you to turn on truck, but not start. Set parking brake. Hold brake pedal and parking brake button for 15-20 seconds. There is an orange light that comes on the dash showing the brake is in service mode. The icon has a wrench under it. Then you have to remove your negative battery cables. Then change the brakes. Then pump the pedal back up. Reconnect the negative battery cables. Then take is out of service mode by holding the parking brake button. There are a few videos that show it. The springs were a bear, but I used a pair of long curved needle-nose pliers to get them hooked back on. Put the back spring on first, then the front spring. There is an adjuster, just like normal parking brakes. Adjustment was just like you described. They said the pads were dragging because the pistons were not backing off when the pedal was released. They weren't sure if that due to the hose or the caliper, so they replaced both. I did have to pay for a brake flush, which was recommended due to the heat I was seeing on the rotor/caliper. But cheap insurance.

Update. I had to take it to the dealership. They confirmed that the caliper is bad and are replacing it under warranty. Thanks for all the help on this.

With no resistance on either piston, one piston will extend out and the other one does move. I can put a clamp on the one that does extend and the other one will extend. So I know that both piston move freely and are not seized. Both pistons can be retracted easily. What I don't know is if both pistons, under resistance, extend and retract equally. It seemed like only one one piston was retracting and causing the pads to drag at one end. Pins were good. I cleaned and lubed them when I did the brakes. All new clips, which I lubed as well.

Squeak is definitely in the rear. You barely press down on the rear bumper and it makes a squeaking/clunking noise. Doesn't matter which side you press down on.

No fluid film or undercoating. I was planning to take it to be undercoated in the spring once all the salt is off the roads. I really didn't notice the squeak until about 3-4 months ago. But didn't think anything of it. Probably started squeaking around 18k.

so the plot thickens on this one... I replaced the rear brakes and took it out to "bed the brakes", per the instructions. Got back and parked it. Smelled brakes, but I expected that. Took it out for a 30-35 minute drive this weekend and the driver's side was hot. I checked the temp and it was well over 300 degrees at the rotor, at the caliper and the pads themselves. I checked the other 3 wheels (in the same spots) and all were under a 100 degrees. I jacked up the truck and the driver's side was dragging. I let it cooled down and tore the driver's side back apart. The only thing I could find was that there are two pistons in the caliper, but they do not extend the same amount. One extended and the other stayed in. I pushed the one that extended back in and put a clamp on it, pumped the brakes and the other piston extended (ok, not seized). Pushed the second piston back in and took the clamp off the first piston and pumped the brakes...only the first piston extended again. I checked the seals and tried swapping clamps 5-6 times with the same results...only one piston extends. I cleaned it all up and put it back together. Took the truck for a ride and checked the temp when I got back. This time all the brakes were right about the same temp. With dual-piston calipers, I assumed that both pistons extend the same when the brakes are pushed. Why would only one piston extend? The piston is not seized. There is no visible issues on the piston or the seal. The line comes into the center of the caliper, so one piston is not closer then the other to the line. Seems odd.

Thanks for all the replies/suggestions. The truck is leveled, I have a set of SuspensionMaxx torsion keys. That's how I found out it wasn't level left-to-right. During the install you write down the height of each wheel (before and after). It was off before and I couldn't get it level after, even with the new keys. It was taken to the dealership (after the keys were installed) and had a 4-wheel alignment done. I mentioned the rear being off left-to-right and they said as long as my tires didn't wear funny, there was no real issue. The front is exactly the same height left-to-right. I will keep trying things to figure this one out.

I am jealous!!

Guess, I need to just drive it on these bumpy NH roads. I have the same creaking sound as well. Let me know how you get that fixed... I guess I need to schedule another trip to the dealership.

yep, used a self-leveling laser on a tripod. No floor drains, it drains out the front.

I checked level with the two difference levels and a self-leveling laser on a tripod. The floor left-to-right is off by 1/8" and back-to-front is off by 1". The water drains out the front, by the garage door.

I measured all four tires and even rotated them. They are new, less then 50 miles on them. All within +/- 1/2" in circumference. I have tried three different spots to measure; one of the other garage bays, outside and turned around 180. Measurements are still within 1/8" of the original measurements. Passenger side is off by ~1".

Thanks. My front is level. No issues there. The rear is the problem. Measuring from the center of the hub, driver's side is 25 3/4" and the passenger is 24 5/8". Not sure if there is a way to raise the right side an inch? The floor is level, rechecked with a 4' and 8' level.

Has anyone measured their rear fender height and found it was off by a full inch left to right? I measured from the floor, directly through the center of the wheel to the lip of the fender. It was lower by a full inch on the passenger's side. Driver's side is 43 7/8" to the lip and passenger's side is 42 7/8" to the same lip. This is with a full tank of diesel and 1/2 full tank of DEF. Parked on a level garage floor. Fronts are level from side to side, but the back is off. Any way to get this leveled off?

inner vs outer pads

I don't use the adaptive cruise control. It seemed odd that both outside pads were normal and both inside pads were thin. Makes me think a caliper issue, but both sides? I ended up getting the Powerstop Z36 Truck & Tow pads/rotors from Rockauto. Regular coated rotors, not the drilled/slotted rotors. Ceramic pads. Parking brake shoes were OEM. Hoping that they last longer then the OEM pads/rotors. The parking brake shoes were just like any other parking brake. I just used a brake spoon to turn the adjuster back in all the way. No special procedure to change the shoes. There are three springs, two on the top and one on the bottom by the adjuster. The one on the top in the back, is a pain to get on/off. There was no special reset needed on the dash. Pads and rotors were a breeze. The caliper bolts are some crazy torque, needed a breaker bar to get them loose. Other than that, nothing special. After I changed the pads/rotors, I started the truck and pumped up the brakes. The truck recognized it had new rear pads and reset the monitor. There is only one "pad sensor", it is on the driver's side. It clips into the pad (you can see it in my first pic). You have to get a new sensor each time you change the pads. It wears down with the pad. Hope that helps.

Thanks for all the input! I don't drive it much in the winter, I work from home and have a second vehicle. So it rarely, if ever, sees a drive on a wet, salty road. I do drive it on the dry days. Maybe I don't drive it enough? But still doesn't explain why my 2015... driven the same way in the same region...had the origin pads/rotors/shoes at 80k. Same running boards as well. Inside pads were much thicker. About what I would expect at 22k. Rotors weren't too rusty on the outside, but parking brake side was. I had to hammer one side off because the brake material had come off and was binding up. I am going to keep a close eye on it and see if they wear fast again. I would think my brakes would last as long as the tires, which have more than 50% left.

That's the thing. It has never been near the ocean or any boat launch...ever. I don't own a boat. I use it to tow my dump trailer or my camper, but only in the summer. I live in NH, but the truck is rarely driven in the winter and garaged year round. The caliper pins all looked fine. I greased them up and put them back in. Replaced the rotors, pads and parking brake shoes. Both sides.